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Topic: Formal dress - help me improve the bodice!  (Read 1017 times)
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ludicrouslouisa
« on: October 16, 2008 09:56:17 PM »

Ok..well I want my formal dress to look something like this:

I have a raw silk like this which will only be enough for the top part of the bodice.

the rest of the dress will have to be made out of satin/sik in some other contrasting colour. I was thinking of making the middle waistband out of zippers instead of cloth but anyway...

so I made a muslin out of a polycotton sheet. I am very happy with how the skirt turned out


but as you can see, the front makes me look flat! And the side zipper is pretty awful (I'm thinking that I will have to sacrifice invisibility for comfort when I make the actual dress.)
I used this tutorial to make the bust:
http://www.burdastyle.com/howtos/show/1153
But I don't know..maybe because sheets don't have much structural stability? It stays up OK (although if I'm moving around a lot it might slip.....) FYI I'm around b up top so I won't need a lot of support. Is there any way to do the bust so it doesn't flatten me out so much? I know the silk will be stiffer and thicker for one thing.
(oh and the pleated middle thing didn't work so well...how would you suggest doing a gathered waistband?)
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SpottedFrog
« Reply #1 on: October 17, 2008 09:05:17 AM »

Get a strapless bra that fits well, a full cup type not a boob tube type (maybe a little padding if you want) and sew it right into the bodice all across the front & maybe one tack in the back somewhere. Just having a bra there is going to reduce the flattening effect, help keep it up & make you feel more secure. Also prevents the nippleage showing thing.

This type would work well:
http://www.maidenform.com/catalog/product.jsp?productId=70772&categoryId=5&wtlCategory=Special%20Occasion&parentCategoryId=5
« Last Edit: October 17, 2008 09:06:33 AM by Penlowe » THIS ROCKS   Logged
AllieAnalogue
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« Reply #2 on: October 19, 2008 05:52:47 PM »

Hi Louisa,
Ooh, your muslin is looking beautiful!
Some suggestions for the bodice:
You will probably want a strapless bra, and maybe invest in some double sided tape made for strapless dresses.  However, to give the bust more shape so it's not flattening out your boobs: when you redo the muslin, on the outer sides of the bodice piece add about an inch or so from top to bottom so you can put a dart from the center of the side seam toward your nipple-- that will make a nice cup shape around your "goods" without just stretching across.  ( I was thinking of a horizontal dart, but this tutorial shows you how to make a vertical bust dart, may or may not be helpful- http://www.burdastyle.com/howtos/show/867)
And for the waist band: cut a piece of fabric that is the size and shape that you want the finished waist band to be.  Cut another piece 1.5-2 times longer from top to bottom, gather it as you like, and baste it onto the flat piece, and then stitch it onto the bodice, and add your skirt.
I hope that makes sense.  Good luck!  Make sure you post the finished piece.
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ludicrouslouisa
« Reply #3 on: November 13, 2008 11:12:31 PM »

Well...OK I've managed to get this far! The bodice is fine (will need to sweetheart-erise it when I put the lining in, the princess seams and strapless bra are helping the shape a lot...) and the waistband is working

 but the zip is doing this weird crinkly thing at the back...
here are pictures. I'm not sure what I can do to amend this...

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CraftyMcCrafterson
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« Reply #4 on: November 13, 2008 11:22:28 PM »

your zipper is working really hard. If you add more shaping to the back with seams it might help smooth that out nicely. great job so far!
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Muria
« Reply #5 on: November 14, 2008 03:59:57 AM »

Is the grey part longer in the back than in the front?  I'm thinking it might be bunching because it has to be narrower in the back than in the front (in part because the fabric in the back doesn't have to go over your chest, so the fabric seems longer). You can see that it wrinkles just a teeny bit in the first set of pictures you took, but the zipper just pulls it all out of whack.  Adding in a piece of fabric that's flat underneath the waist piece might help flatten the zipper (if you don't already have one in there), but if it doesn't, I'd look to making the top piece shorter from top to bottom and see if that helps.

Good luck!
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Muria

Where did all this fabric come from? I CAN'T have bought THAT much!
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