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Topic: Kimono dress tute, oh so many pics *UPDATE* Action pics added  (Read 45215 times)
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KitschyCoo
« on: August 22, 2008 06:55:50 PM »

Here is the tute for the kimono dress I've drafted.  I'm happy to share my tute and measurements so others can make them, but I would really appreciate if, when you make one, you PM me with the measurements you used. This one is based on 18m but I really need to test / grade it for other sizes as my only 'test subject' is dd.  Smiley
 
Start off with a knit shirt that fits your lo, and measure from shoulder to shoulder.  Make this line on a piece of paper.  Draw a slight a-line down from both shoulders.

Measure the shirt you like from top of shoulder to armpit.

Mark on your pattern where the armpit falls.  Measure length of sleeve (add seam allowance) and trace a rectangle of the sleeve. Cut out, you will cut this on the fold (top line).

Mark sleeve end on the other side of pattern too.

You now need to figure out where you want the shoulder seams to be.  The rule of thirds (thanks Jaynesews and Petchy!) from the tute list does not apply as it needs to fit over the head without overlapping and ties. There is nothing worse than making something, only to find it doesn't fit over over their head!  At sight, just over 2 in from the shoulder end looked good for me.    Mark those on your pattern, both sides.

Decide where you want the kimono overlap to meet the side seam, I like it to be just a little bit below the sleeve.  Draw a line from shoulder seam mark to where you want the crossover to meet side seam.  Measure from armpit to this mark and replicate on other side, also making a line from shoulder to crossover mark.


I like this dress to be fitted through the bodice and then a-line, therefore I gave it a gentle flare from shoulder to crossover mark, then a more substantial flare from crossover mark to hem.  First time I drafted this pattern, it was not a-line enough (it was tube like) so I cut it off to be a shirt.  Successful pattern is 9ish" top line, 11ish" at crossover and 18ish" at hem.

Cut out this pattern and make a duplicate, this will be the back, set aside.  Take the piece you have marked up, this will become the front.  Cut along the pink line.

This piece is now left bodice, set aside.
Cut along other pink line.

This is right bodice, but it needs seem allowance added to the bottom.  Trace onto new paper and add seam allowance ( have a serger so only 1/4 in for me!)

You now have front, right, sleeve and back pieces, set aside. 

Return to back piece, make sure that you have traced shoulder marks on pattern.  It's v important that they match up with front pieces.  Fold in half lengthways and cut a gentle scoop. 

I'm not entirely sure this is necessary but it's a safeguard to head fitting through and also easier to attach binding when edges are curved.  It will look like this:


Lay pieces down with right sides in, aligning shoulder seams, pinning and stitching, like this.

Time for the binding, I used stretch cotton (not ribbing).  It's width was 1.5 in and I folded in half and pressed.
Pin the binding around the neck, starting from the small triangle side (right bodice), stretching as you go and doing both copious stretching and pinning at shoulder seams. 

Iron the two sleeves on the fold for a neat crease.  Serge raw edge, turn under and hem. Match creases with shoulder seams (both facing in) and stitch.  This is what it will end up looking like:

Pin right side of dress, all pieces facing in.

On left bodice, pinch unfinished edge of triangle piece with where you attached the binding before (lining up at side seam). 

Starting at side seam edge (small cut) , run it all through serger again at the trim, closing the V. 

Pin fully left and right sides.  Serge from hem through end of sleeve on both sides, catching small edge piece of left side. 

Press the binding out and steam for shape.  Attach decorative button where crossover meets (or else it pops down!) Hem too!


NB.  Topstitching removes the need for buttons, but I'm rubbish.
You could also serge the binding once around the neck, rather than twice.  Make a small mark within seam allowance where they cross.  Still starting at triangle side, run through serger until mark, pin, pinch and continue running.  It was too much for me to get my head around!

Hope it all makes sense, let me know any questions!


« Last Edit: August 23, 2008 01:44:52 AM by KitschyCoo » THIS ROCKS   Logged

TheSleepyKnitter
« Reply #1 on: August 22, 2008 08:03:50 PM »

Wow, wonderful tute!!! Thank you so much for taking the time to share that good information.
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Adopting second "special needs" international baby, wanting cloth diapers to help cut expenses, will ===SWAP for cloth diapers===.
OutsideTheAisles
« Reply #2 on: August 22, 2008 08:52:04 PM »

Very cute.  I wish my daughter would wear stuff I make her.  She likes more boyish clothes already and is only 6!  I may have to use this for a gift sometime for one of the nieces.
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KitschyCoo
« Reply #3 on: August 23, 2008 01:41:27 AM »

Here's the little lady in her new dress!


Check out that buddha belly Smiley  That's why I like it tight fitting on the tummy
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glittergirl94
« Reply #4 on: August 23, 2008 03:29:07 AM »

Great Tute!  Thank you for sharing!
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threegirlsandaboy
« Reply #5 on: August 23, 2008 06:09:38 AM »

Adorable!  What a great tute!  I STILL NEED A SERGER!!   Cry
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BellyPeg
« Reply #6 on: August 23, 2008 10:43:26 AM »

thanks for the tute.
I'll definitly be making one of these.
and I think I should buy the serger foot for my machine.
hmmmmm
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JustSewDivine
« Reply #7 on: August 23, 2008 12:11:47 PM »

this is a good tute to follow. she looks so cute. I also like the fabric print.

Melinda
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~~*Melinda*~~
bayleesan
« Reply #8 on: August 23, 2008 01:46:04 PM »

Thanks, this is awesome. I wish I had a serger...
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sophiesmam
« Reply #9 on: August 23, 2008 02:29:00 PM »

This is fab. Reall cute daughter and dress.
Thanks for the tute.
Will have to make for my dd and neices.
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vegbee
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« Reply #10 on: August 23, 2008 08:58:17 PM »

thank you!  It's such a lovely style, and you've got some great knits  Smiley
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« Reply #11 on: December 09, 2008 11:37:43 AM »

i am going to try it!
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budpiper
« Reply #12 on: December 09, 2008 06:42:43 PM »

Thank you so much for sharing your pattern/tute, your kimono dresses are always so beautiful made. I will have a go at making one after xmas as i have already made all my gifts for family and friends, but i know my 2 dds will look so cute in them.
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eightdandelions
« Reply #13 on: December 10, 2008 04:42:00 PM »

Your DD is so lucky!  What a closet she must have! 

Too cute, thanks for the awesome tute!
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Flutteringby
« Reply #14 on: January 11, 2009 10:13:30 AM »

If anyone reads this can they help me lol Im desperate to make this for my DD but cannot figure it out!  Huh I with you until it says about cutting the pink lines - and where have the arms gone on the pattern - one minute they are there and the next they are gone - Im very confused and havent been doing this very long so please forgive my ignorance! Thanks  Smiley
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KitschyCoo
« Reply #15 on: January 11, 2009 04:12:20 PM »

Hey Flutteringby, I'm almost always around and more than happy to help, just PM me! 

I've read over the tute again, I think I can see why you are confused.  Unlike some other kimono patterns, the sleeves are not in a continuous piece with the bodice.  As you can see, in the fourth picture if the original tute, the sleeve piece has been drawn to the left of the bodice:


I should have been clearer that this piece should be cut off the bodice and used independantly, I see what you mean about it disappearing!  I probably should have included this picture too:

It shows that there is a front left, small front right and sleeve (x2).

I hope this helps, and again, just let me know if you need anymore help!  Cheesy
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UUmom2many
« Reply #16 on: January 11, 2009 05:22:47 PM »

Oh I'm going to have to try this one out too!!!

What kind of fabric is this? I want to say it's knit but we don't get cool knits like that where I am, at least I haven't found any.
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Crystal

Homeschooling mom to five, 2 with special needs. Fabric hoarder, urban homesteader, writer, weight lifter and general crafty bitch.
Flutteringby
« Reply #17 on: January 12, 2009 12:17:35 AM »

Thank you so much! Im not very technical and just couldnt work it out, Im going to have at go at it this week so fingers crossed! I'll let you know how I get on  Smiley
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KitschyCoo
« Reply #18 on: January 12, 2009 12:36:39 AM »

I'm glad to help, just let me know if you get stuck again.  I actually got an order for one of these last night so at least it'll be fresh in my mind!  Cheesy

Oh I'm going to have to try this one out too!!!

What kind of fabric is this? I want to say it's knit but we don't get cool knits like that where I am, at least I haven't found any.

Yep, it's knit fabric.  It's really hard to get interesting fabric here too, but the website I think has the best selection is crybabysboutique.  Or the Fabric Fairy!  I have it shipped all the way to the UK as there is no good knits in the fabric shops or even online here!
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Gumption
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« Reply #19 on: January 13, 2009 03:15:46 PM »

This is a beautiful dress, and a Very well-done tute!  THANK YOU!

Isn't it funny that we like to see our little girls' bellies, but hate to see our own?!

GREAT WORK!
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Flutteringby
« Reply #20 on: January 18, 2009 12:57:04 PM »

I havent actually started this yet lol Im waiting for the fabric I ordered to arrive but I just wanted to say i was laying in bed last night and I finally "got it" I can now picture in my head how Im going to sew it all together and how the pattern works! I know it might seem obvious but I was so pleased it finally made sense - cant wait for the fabric to arrive now!!
« Last Edit: January 18, 2009 12:59:01 PM by Flutteringby - Reason: Correcting my dreadful spelling mistakes! » THIS ROCKS   Logged
ellep
« Reply #21 on: April 29, 2010 06:54:22 AM »

This is a great tutorial/pattern.  I'm going to make one in size 3 for my dd.  I'll send you the details.  Thank you for sharing.

I just wanted to make a comment to the others who expressed dissapointment about not being able to make this without a serger.  You can still make this with a regular sewing machine.  Make all of your seams 1/2 inch with a regular straight stitch, and then always finish the seam with a zigzag.  Knit fabrics do not fray though so the zigzaging isn't completely necessary but will make it look more 'finished'.  Hope this helps.
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