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Topic: Purple, pink, translucent, and black cane.**Mini yo yo bead tute added pg 3**  (Read 4913 times)
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beadizzygrl
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« on: August 15, 2008 05:45:05 PM »

Remember this tutorial?

http://www.craftster.org/forum/index.php?topic=139375.0

I changed the gold and copper colors to pink and purple.



These were 4 oz candle jars, after burning candle I recycled them to these.  I carefully removed the plastic seals on the lids and replaced after baking.  I have tea light candles burning in them.

Cut diagonal in half and then into quarters.  This cane is a perfect puzzle playing cane!!  TRY IT!!!!  you will amaze yourself playing switcheroo.....

This is an eclipse mint tin.  My brother gave me a bag full, so you will be seeing at least 8 of these when I get done. 

Every single slice of cane was used for all of this.  Shew, barely squeaked by with enough cane this time.
 
My daughter uses one of these to hold her jewelry in during gym class.  I also like to carry around my on the go beadwork in them. 

I layered a simple cane (left over centers in beginning cane) over the rows. 




« Last Edit: August 29, 2008 01:12:01 PM by beadizzygrl - Reason: tutorial added » THIS ROCKS   Logged

Gina
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I have alot to share, all you gotta do is ask.

 
Crochet, x-stitch, Ribbon embroidery, plastic canvas, beadwork, polymer clay, wire work, and now TATTING!!  Please help me learn to knit, then I might be complete.
Lady Rando
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« Reply #1 on: August 15, 2008 05:56:27 PM »

That cane is sooooo pretty, and in my fave colors. Yummy eye candy. Grin
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kaleesi
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« Reply #2 on: August 15, 2008 06:01:14 PM »

I love the candle on the left!!! Those polka dots look soooo cool lit up!
And the tin is really neat - the dots look like they are rising like bubbles!!
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narhloki
« Reply #3 on: August 15, 2008 06:48:34 PM »

I love how they glow!
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« Reply #4 on: August 15, 2008 07:48:46 PM »

holy crap thats cool
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PorgeCreations
« Reply #5 on: August 16, 2008 07:16:46 AM »

Oh wow!!.. I love them <3
I really wish i could get the hang of canes! Mine just always turn out so rubbish

x~PORGE~x
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« Reply #6 on: August 16, 2008 07:17:34 AM »

 Grin All are Beautiful!
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Diane B.
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« Reply #7 on: August 16, 2008 07:48:56 AM »

All very nice as usual!  Grin

I love the way you've shot the lit votive candleholders too since it shows both the original colors of the canes (from the inside), as well as the way the colors look when lit from the outside.  They can be so different because of the different amounts of translucency built into various colors (and since White clay is actually opaque) that it's kind of hard to imagine in advance just what the patterns will look like and which colors will show up as what. Shocked

The cane you've made also reminds me of something I've wanted-to-do-someday too (the slice in the 2nd photo).  That is to create a small board game which has various kinds of "squares" on the board so that the playing pieces (polymer, of course!) can move along the squares.  The basic cane could have a smaller bullseye on just two sides of the large one to create a single path when joined in just one direction (like Candyland, etc), or forking paths could be created if one or two smaller bullseyes were added (like pachisi or even something like this:
http://www.smallfilms.co.uk/noggin/game1.jpg)

P.S.  Where did you ever find a metal BandAid box these days, or did you have it around?  Most of the plastic ones would probably work too(?) since they may be "medical plastic" which is okay for covering with polymer clay and baking, but this one does look like metal.


Diane B.
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beadizzygrl
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« Reply #8 on: August 16, 2008 09:34:33 PM »

Thanks ya'all so much!!  Grin
Porge, I would suggest Kato clay for making canes.  Yes it is hard to condition, but lines stay so crisp!!  An acrylic roller helps to keep the square corners so straight!   I have NEVER had to put Kato canes in refridgerater before slicing. Leave cane sit a litte before slicing is all I do. Kato "sticks" better and the seams smooth together so nicely.  And my slices are not identical when slicing, sometimes I have to slightly stretch it up or down.  As you cut, you will be pushing your cane down a little, so turn that cane with each cut and it helps to keep consistant.  I start with the middle row.  These jars have ridges (lines) YAY! that I follow around.  The above and below rows, the canes had to be reduced a little.  To have the perfection appearance I mirror my slices by turning that square till the black lines are meeting perfectly as possible.   As I lay my slices down on my glass I roll with my handles of my utility knife.  Before baking I make sure all my seams have no light showing through by holding it right under my floor lamp light bulb.  There is no clay on the bottom of these.

Diane-- I did not know you could bake some plastic, medical plastic ya say?  hmmm... cool!! Must be in the same plastic family as the bic stick ink pens.   My brother is an eclipse mint addict!  Here is a before shot of the tins I am using:

 on the inside of lid, it says in blue ink "POWERFUL FRESH BREATH" and no way of covering that up. Notice the little lip over the hinge, it is important to keep clay thin here for it to open properly.   The purple and the pink have no translucent clay added at all.  But since the large translucent circle centers, I baked a thin layer of white clay on tin before adding the slices.  I was hoping it would brighten up the translucent in the "wormy" area.  But it didn't do much good.  But it did keep the larger circles fairly white.  Another thing to keep in mind, the lid needs to have a lip for the lid to be lifted.  Under that lip needs to be thin there too to be able to push that lid up.  AND some of my tins the tops needed super glued after baking.  They will be opened a million times, so I take care to make sure the clay will keep stuck!!!  I scratch the lid real good before gluing clay top on. I have 4 done now, 4 do go......Trying to get my flame cane right......Wait till ya see my flame petal flowers!!!  Cool

 Your board game idea sounds fun!  I hope you find some time soon to make one!!  Time for a clay vacation Diane!! 
« Last Edit: August 16, 2008 09:42:16 PM by beadizzygrl » THIS ROCKS   Logged

Gina
I am not obsessed with Perty Thangs, I am disciplined...

I have alot to share, all you gotta do is ask.

 
Crochet, x-stitch, Ribbon embroidery, plastic canvas, beadwork, polymer clay, wire work, and now TATTING!!  Please help me learn to knit, then I might be complete.
Diane B.
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« Reply #9 on: August 17, 2008 08:39:18 AM »

Quote
My brother is an eclipse mint addict!  Here is a before shot of the tins

Oh, that's a cool tin.  Don't believe I've ever noticed that one before... will have to keep an eyeball peeled for them now for sure.
Jean Comport once covered a metal BandAid box which she called an "ouchie box" (for her grandkids?)... the photo is gone now, but she'd added a head on the lid and two arms on the sides...fun.

Quote
on the inside of lid, it says in blue ink "POWERFUL FRESH BREATH" and no way of covering that up.

Couldn't you glue a sheet of prebaked clay over the words, inside the lip? ... or even felt, fabric, etc.?
Some kinds of paint will stick to metal too if the surface is properly prepared (see below**).

Quote
I did not know you could bake some plastic, medical plastic ya say?  hmmm... cool!! Must be in the same plastic family as the bic stick ink pens.


A lot of plastics will actually take the low heat we use for curing polymer clay (without slumping, shrinking, or melting).  And even if the critical maximum for a particular plastic is around 250, putting clay all around the item will usually buffer the plastic enough to keep it from distorting (one example of that is plastic film canisters). 
I have a list at my site of many of the things that can and can't (or maybe can't) be covered with clay and baked, which is often aligned with the recycling number (since heat is the way plastics are usually recycled).  "Medical" and some "food-grade" plastics usually have higher maximum heat tolerances, so things like prescription bottles, cough syrup bottles, those tall squared containers for dental floss, applesauce cups, yogurt cups, margarine tubs, M&M tubes, etc, are all fine to cover with clay.
http://www.glassattic.com/polymer/covering.htm (Plastics > Recycling Numbers)

Quote
The purple and the pink have no translucent clay added at all.

I can't tell very well from the photo just how translucent the light pink and the light purple are... they both look fairly dark when the light attempts to shine through them, so they're somewhat opaque.  If you mixed those colors youself by adding white clay to another purple or pink, then that's probably what caused most of the opaqueness since white clay is very opaque; if it came that way, then there wasn't much translucent in those colors from the factory. 

It's certainly counterintuitive though to predict which colors will be translucent and which more opaque straight from the package!  I remember having a hard time getting my head around the fact that the dark blue I was using on a votive was quite translucent and read a bright blue when the votive was lit, but the white was totally opaque and read black when lit.  I actually had to go back and mix some of the colors I wanted to be lighter with translucent or with a tint-of-the-same-color-from-the-package to "lighten" them more than mixing only with white  Roll Eyes 
Unfortunately, the mixing of colors to use for a votive have to be figured out so the final color will br close enough to the color you want when viewed in daylight, vs. having enough translucency to be light or bright enough to be viewed lit in the dark.

Quote
But since the large translucent circle centers, I baked a thin layer of white clay on tin before adding the slices.  I was hoping it would brighten up the translucent in the "wormy" area.  But it didn't do much good.  But it did keep the larger circles fairly white

I'm a little confused re what you mean here.  Is the "since" a typo? 
So you put a thin layer of (only) White clay underneath the slices?  If you'd done that, I would assume that all the colors would have lost some of their translucency and brightness when lit, unless perhaps the layer was very thin... or did you perhaps use something like the Translucent White color which wouldn't have been as opaque. 

The other problem with the "wormy" areas appearing maybe darker than you'd want can come from the fact that you've put a dark color right next to translucent, so you're actually seeing the dark color through some of the translucent which makes the translucent "smaller" (and it's already been reduced fairly small). 
If you want to avoid that and haven't already tried this, when making your bullseye, add a thin wrap of white clay around the translucent center before adding the black wrap layer... that will keep the black from being seen in the translucent, and also crisp up and brighten the edges of the translucent center.  Should look okay whether lit or not too.




**Carol Duvall used metal paint under her decorations on one of the metal boxes she showed which were covered with a variety of things (no polymer clay). What a great idea. I leave the uncovered parts of most of my boxes "au naturel" but for ones that I cover with dark colors, I prefer that the whole outside of the box be black (or whatever). I used black acrylic paint once, but it started scraping off the first time I opened and closed the box. The metal paint might stay intact. Randi
...I sand (the metal surface) first, not too too much but enough to give my primer something to grip, then I use automotive primer for metal objects..... I also like to buy those little cans of automotive spray paints from the parts stores to paint tins too (I like the colors and they bond to metal better than most spray paints)
........ I also leave time for my primer to cure before moving on, at least a day or two ... this helps keep the color from flaking off after handling/abuse. redqueen

she used a pretty thick coat of Rub n Buff to "paint" the undecorated parts of the tins. I thought that was a pretty interesting concept - looked wonderful, and a less messy option than spray painting them (if you're like me and don't want to cover the whole tin)
I am interested in this idea. I have some gold Rub n Buff but have not really used it yet. Would it need some sort of base coat underneath? Or sealer on top? (decorating the tops of Altoids tins with rubber stamped shrink plastic & beedz - )
I don't know off hand - she didn't say, except that it might take a couple of coats to get the desired coverage. DevilsGirl3

About just the hinges on Altoids (and similar) boxes, I usually paint mine with acrylic paint. You could even use a permanent pen, since they're so small. Randi . . . (or metallic paint pens?)




Diane B.
« Last Edit: August 17, 2008 08:53:04 AM by Diane B. » THIS ROCKS   Logged

POLYMER CLAY "ENCYCLOPEDIA" 
http://glassattic.com/polymer/contents.htm
few of my photos
http://s96.photobucket.com/albums/l163/DianeBB
(had to move them from YahooPhotos, so many now without captions)
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