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Topic: Resin and Bead Necklace, now with full tutorial!  (Read 12386 times)
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I Eat Art
« on: February 16, 2005 06:17:23 AM »



This is a necklace I made for my girlfriend for Valentines day. It's a metal band filled with resin and beads, so it catches the light pretty well. Unfortunately it's kind of hard to photogrpah with my camera because it's shiney, and there's some glare with the flash. It has kind of a bumpy texture on the front, where the beads poke up. There's no backing. Whaddaya think?

Tutorial:

Materials

For the metal band:
-Sterling Silver Sheet
-Soldering setup (torch, flux, solder, etc)
(IF you do not have a soldering setup, buy premade rings)
-Sterling Silver Wire
-Small Drill Bit
-Drill Press
-Jax Silver Black Patina
-Hammer
-Ring Madrel
-Pliers

For the resin:
-Castin' Craft Casting Resin
-1 oz Squeezy Bottle
-Stirring Stick
-Glass Beads
-Leather Cord
-Heat Lamp if your ring is metal
-Some sort of plastic sheeting
-flat surface

Since I'm a metals major, I made the band and jump ring for the top. You can use any sort of band you want, clear plastic, a bottle cap, whatever. I'm including a description of how I made the band, but it's really a "don't try this at home" sort of thing unless you already know how to work with silver.

Making the metal ring
note, making the metal ring requires specific equipment. Please don't try to follow this part of the tutorial if you've never done any silver soldering, you can serverely hurt yourself! If you don't have experience in metalsmithing, you can buy premade ring blanks from a jewelry supply catalog like http://www.riogrande.com

-Cut a strip of metal the width you want and as long as the circumfrence of the ring size you're going for.
-Bend the strip into a D shape, with the ends touching on the flat sides
-Flux and solder the ring shut, being careful not to melt the ring
-Pickle
-Reshape the ring on a ring mandrel
-using a drill press and small drill bit, drill a hole in the top of the ring
-insert a short bit of wire into the hole, and bend it into a loop with the pliers. Bend the other end into an L shape so it won't fall out of the hole.

Once you have a plain silver ring (either homemade or premade):
-Place the ring on a ring mandrel (a tapered steel stake). Using a planishing hammer, strike the ring over and over to create a dimpled texture.
-Pour a little bit of Jax Silver Blackener (available from RioGrande, or any other metals supply store) into a shallow dish or bottle cap. Dip the ring into the blackener, making sure it is evenly coated. Rinse the ring breifly.
-With some 600 grit sandpaper, lightly sand the ring, this will remove the blackener from the edges.
-File the bottom of the ring so that it is completely smooth, and no resin will leak out the bottom when it is set on a table.

Filling the ring with resin
This part is safe enough for everyone. But make sure you work carefully in a well ventilated area. Don't get anything on your skin, and wear a respirator if you have one. Resin is highly toxic.

-Make sure the bottom of the ring is supremely flat. File it or sand it so that there are no gaps between the ring and the table.
-Place the object on some plastic on a flat surface. I use acetate (transparency paper) but any scrap of semi-stiff plastic will work. Saran wrap is too filmsy, but those clear sleaves some CDs come in are fine.
-Next, pour a TINY amount (maybe a third of an ounce) of casting resin into a small 1oz squeezy bottle (the kind you use for paints... I got mine in the "sand art" section of the craft store).
-I then added about 20 drops of catalyst. This is WAY more than the instructions tell you to use. I needed more catalyst due to the fact that metal conducts heat away from the resin. The thicker your piece is, the less catalyst you need. BE CAREFUL, the catalyst is HIGHLY TOXIC and causes SERVERE BURNS.
-Mix thoroughly with a stick. Make sure to scrape the sides and bottom.
-Cap the squeezy bottle, and fill the ring about halfway with resin
-Then  SLOWLY add some beads. I used tiny green glass beads, the smallest I could find. I got a tube of them for $3 at a local beading store. Wait for the beads to sink into the resin, and then add more. I dropped them in a few at a time.
-Alternate resin and beads until the ring is full
-clean up your work area

If you're using plastic, you're pretty much done. Keep the object in a warm area, because it needs heat to set. If you're using metal, you'll need to keep it under a heat lamp for at least a few hours, probably longer, so that the metal doesn't conduct away the heat.

wait a good 24 hours to make sure its set properly. Run some leather cord through the jump ring and viola, a necklace!
« Last Edit: July 18, 2011 01:03:06 PM by jungrrl » THIS ROCKS   Logged

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« Reply #1 on: February 16, 2005 06:44:37 AM »

That is so freakin BEAUTIFUL!  Shocked The green & the black are so hot together.
I for 1 would love a more detailed tut on the metal part of the project
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« Reply #2 on: February 16, 2005 06:49:45 AM »

That is very cool!  I bet your GF was happy to get it!
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I Eat Art
« Reply #3 on: February 16, 2005 07:03:50 AM »

That is so freakin BEAUTIFUL!  Shocked The green & the black are so hot together.
I for 1 would love a more detailed tut on the metal part of the project

allright, I'll write a good step-by-step start-to-finish tutorial once I get my english homework done Tongue
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« Reply #4 on: February 16, 2005 07:10:57 AM »

ooooooooh that's neato
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« Reply #5 on: February 16, 2005 07:13:18 AM »

Quote

allright, I'll write a good step-by-step start-to-finish tutorial once I get my english homework done Tongue
Quote

THANK YOU!  Grin
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« Reply #6 on: February 16, 2005 08:08:02 AM »

thats awesome Smiley
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« Reply #7 on: February 16, 2005 11:41:28 AM »

Thanks I Eat Art!

I wonder if you could use PMC for something like this? Thoughts??
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I Eat Art
« Reply #8 on: February 16, 2005 12:50:57 PM »

Thanks I Eat Art!

I wonder if you could use PMC for something like this? Thoughts??

I'm sure PMC would work for this, especially if you don't have hammers/stakes to form stuff on.

If you do have access to a hammer and a ring mandrel (they're not usually very expensive, especially used) I'd probably go with buying ring blanks and making them that way, just because it would be a lot cheaper. From what I understand PMC is pretty expensive.
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« Reply #9 on: February 16, 2005 01:43:50 PM »

Quote

I'm sure PMC would work for this, especially if you don't have hammers/stakes to form stuff on.

If you do have access to a hammer and a ring mandrel (they're not usually very expensive, especially used) I'd probably go with buying ring blanks and making them that way, just because it would be a lot cheaper. From what I understand PMC is pretty expensive.
Quote

Pardon my ignorance BUT what is a ring blank?
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