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Topic: Apples and Strawberries + Tute On Page 4  (Read 11359 times)
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Euphoriaa
« on: May 27, 2008 02:42:38 AM »

Edited to add **Tute on Page 4**

I finished this top last night. I am not sure of what you call the gathered/ruchy/tab bit on the bust. Anyone know if it has a name?





Just a question though, anyone have any ideas of how to keep the bottom hem stretchy? I serged the bottom and hemmed it with a straight stitch and now it has no stretch at all/feels stiff. I put it on and hear threads snapping!!  Undecided


« Last Edit: May 28, 2008 05:43:39 AM by Euphoriaa » THIS ROCKS   Logged
zazazoom
« Reply #1 on: May 27, 2008 03:10:16 AM »

I love it! Those type of tops are my favorite, I think they fit me in a more flattering way than most tops.
I donno what the name for the the thing in the middle is either, but I would probably describe it as a contour bust, and the gather in the front gives it a sweetheart neckline... but someone else probably knows more exactly what it is.
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« Reply #2 on: May 27, 2008 03:55:41 AM »

I absolutely love it! you did a great job!  Smiley
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« Reply #3 on: May 27, 2008 03:56:28 AM »

Lovely!  Cheesy
Would it help if you stretch the fabric as you sew?
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« Reply #4 on: May 27, 2008 03:57:09 AM »

I love this top and the wide straps...what pattern did you use?
I am a full figured woman so I would need a larger size.

As  for the hem..you should have used the "stretch stitch" feature or a zig zag on it.Then it will give...also you can stretch it as you stitch it if you don't have the "stretch feature" on your machine.
I hope this helps.

Great job!!!

Marian in Va
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« Reply #5 on: May 27, 2008 04:59:45 AM »

As  for the hem..you should have used the "stretch stitch" feature or a zig zag on it.Then it will give...also you can stretch it as you stitch it if you don't have the "stretch feature" on your machine.
I hope this helps.

Stretching the fabric while sowing is fine when you want to make ruffle details  but can often lead to an uneven hem. Which I assume you aren't looking for Smiley

You can use the stretch stitch or a zig zag on the machine, but the very best way to avoid problems is to use the proper needle!

*puts on school teacher glasses* Wink

For stretch fabrics you should always use a stretch needle. The thing about such a needle, is that the tip is more pointy than a normal needle. Making it possible for the needle to go down between the fibres and not through them. This keeps some of the stretchiness and makes the hem lay nicely onto the fabric.
If you use a normal stretch needle you should use the zig zag hem as SewnMemaw suggested.
http://z.about.com/d/sewing/1/0/w/x/1/stretch.jpg[/img]

You do however have an alternative that often looks more professional: a twin stretch needle. The (twin) stretch needle come in different width from 1,6-8mm (1/24"- 5/16" ish). I personally like and use 3-4mm. Here is a little about what the standarts are:

1.6mm & 2.0mm - Pintucks and delicate sewing.
2.5mm & 3.0mm - Hems or pintucks.
4.0mm - Decorative hems.

http://www.ggcreations.com.au/althea/needles/twin.gif[/img]

I could unfortunately not find a picture of a twin needle hem, but just take out a regular shirt of any kind and look at that!

Hope this will help you! Good luck with sewing more stretch fabric!
« Last Edit: July 12, 2008 07:11:13 AM by sweets4ever » THIS ROCKS   Logged

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MEshelltakeone
« Reply #6 on: May 27, 2008 05:16:26 AM »

It is sooo cute!!

question: is the print fabric one piece or two?

i was just about to make myself a similar style top out of stretchy fabric ( my first time Smiley) and i am soooo thankful for the info on needles and such pseudo_pix!!!!! thanks!
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« Reply #7 on: May 27, 2008 07:12:49 AM »

Looks nice and summery! For the hem - don't forget for knits you have to stretch a little as you sew Smiley
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Euphoriaa
« Reply #8 on: May 27, 2008 07:16:10 AM »

Hello and thankyou to everyone for your helpful and kind comments!!

I love this top and the wide straps...what pattern did you use?
I didn't use a pattern for this, I have a top similar that I used as a guide.
For the bust I folded a piece of fabric in half and sewed it into a rectangular tube (open on both ends). I don't know if this step is really neccesary but then I sewed two lines of long stiches close together and gathered it by pulling on the bottom threads. Then I made a mini tube (red fabric) and sewed it into a ring and slipped it over the bigger rectangle...and this gives you your gathered bust and from there you make your body part etc. Um, if you don't get what I mean then I'll draw a diagram which might help more.

And thank you soooo much pseudo_pix for all the information on the needles! Thats something I would definatly have to try out as I plan on sewing alot more stretchy fabrics. I am sure alot more people would find this information helpful too. Grin

Another little question..is a stretch stitch like a zig-zag stitch but kinda slanted? I did a quick google for it without much luck.
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MightyMouse
« Reply #9 on: May 27, 2008 07:22:48 AM »

oh, I love love love the fabric! I wish I could sew clothes like that!
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« Reply #10 on: May 27, 2008 07:46:06 AM »

First off, let me say I am in love with that top.  I think i understand what you mean about the top but a tute would be wonderful.  I would defin use it a couple of times at least. 

Now I have a question about the whole double needle thing since we are talking about it.  My machine (a cheap brother xl-5340) came with a twin (i call them double) needle but no instuctions on how to use.  it just says i can.  Can someone explain how this would work and when you would use it (besides on this shirt).  Sorry, I am still teaching myself to sew and would appreciate any help on this.  Normally i would ask my mom but i don't recall ever  seeing her sew with more than one needle except on  her embroidery machine.  and where (if you use one) does the extra spool of thread go?
thanks
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izzy_guns
« Reply #11 on: May 27, 2008 08:27:14 AM »

Nice!!!
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« Reply #12 on: May 27, 2008 09:04:19 AM »

Now I have a question about the whole double needle thing since we are talking about it.  My machine (a cheap brother xl-5340) came with a twin (i call them double) needle but no instuctions on how to use.  it just says i can.  Can someone explain how this would work and when you would use it (besides on this shirt).  Sorry, I am still teaching myself to sew and would appreciate any help on this.  Normally i would ask my mom but i don't recall ever  seeing her sew with more than one needle except on  her embroidery machine.  and where (if you use one) does the extra spool of thread go?

A little tutorial (and I apologize for my lack of English sewing terminology!!). I've used three different kind of colour to make it easier to distinguish the different seams. I couldn't find my stretch twin needle, so you have to do with a regular one. But the principle is the same!

Here is my old old old seventies coloured sewingmachine and the twin needle:


As you can see on the last picture, the needle head is shaped like a circle but with a flat side to it. The flat side, as on every other kind of sewing machine needle, is placed away from you.

The twin needle has only one part that goes into the "needleholder" just as any other needle:


On your machine there should be an extra spool holder, but if not, you can alway use a little understitching case. Here is a picture of my machine with two spool holders:


Then you quite simply thread as you would do with only one spool. Me holding the two threads:


When you get to the needle you simply thread each pinhole:


Here is pictures of the seam:
Front of seam: Back of seam:

When you have sewn all you want to sew, you cut off the excess fabric. If you are working with stretch fabric you will find the little snip of fabric will curl up and look even better than my hem.


I hope this is enough for you to try it out, supermedic!

~pseudo_pix
« Last Edit: May 27, 2008 09:56:07 AM by pseudo_pix » THIS ROCKS   Logged

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« Reply #13 on: May 27, 2008 10:15:50 AM »

Thanks so much pseudo_pix.  Now I know why there is an extra little spool holder thingy with the machine.  I just thought is was a replacement.  I'll have to look and see where it goes.  Thanks sooo much for the pics too--I work much better with pictures than I do words.  I am really pissed that joanns was out of clear elastic when i was there yesterday--this would work perfect on the top i want to make and thats all i need to get to have everything.  I'll be stalking the store till they get it in now--lol.
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Sisa
« Reply #14 on: May 27, 2008 11:25:49 AM »

All this about twin needles is something new for me and very interesting...I would like to know if it works with all types of sewing machines or if youd need a special foot or it should be especificated in the instructions...
Thank you

Nice top, too

P.D.: excuse my english
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« Reply #15 on: May 27, 2008 12:36:54 PM »

Now I know why there is an extra little spool holder thingy with the machine.  I just thought is was a replacement.

LOL, supermedic. Try pulling in the 'little extra spool holder thingy' - normally you can pull it up so it'll have the same hight as the other one  Wink  Tongue

I would like to know if it works with all types of sewing machines or if youd need a special foot or it should be especificated in the instructions...

Yup. It's just as when you buy a new ordinary needle, except the twin is a little more fancy Wink
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mollteaser
« Reply #16 on: May 27, 2008 03:57:53 PM »

that is a lovely top! the fabric's gorgeous. i was just wondering how you attached the gathered front to the rest of the top? was it hard?
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arcticmouse
« Reply #17 on: May 27, 2008 04:06:36 PM »

great shirt!  i think the hem looks fine.

also, thanks psuedo pix!  i am trying to teach myself how to sew, so this will help me lots!
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« Reply #18 on: May 27, 2008 04:09:27 PM »

pseudo_pix you are so kind Smiley thank you

and the top is great, looks very pro, and the fabric is the same from "cheeky panties" on burdastyle, and i love it
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dimplessaysrelax
« Reply #19 on: May 27, 2008 04:16:42 PM »

oh My Good God. I Am In Love.
 Roll Eyes

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« Reply #20 on: May 27, 2008 05:02:42 PM »

This top is soo cute!
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atlamom
« Reply #21 on: May 27, 2008 05:30:02 PM »

Love the top and it looks fabulous on you!
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« Reply #22 on: May 27, 2008 05:36:21 PM »

super cute! love the fabric and the style.
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« Reply #23 on: May 27, 2008 05:37:23 PM »

WOW! I love this shirt it's so pretty. I want one now.... Wink
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« Reply #24 on: May 27, 2008 05:48:37 PM »

I WANT ONE.
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« Reply #25 on: May 27, 2008 06:14:16 PM »

kay-ute!  i love it  Grin
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« Reply #26 on: May 27, 2008 06:50:19 PM »

This is soo adorable!! Good job!
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« Reply #27 on: May 27, 2008 07:05:50 PM »

Euphoriaa - That top is very cute. Looks really good on the bod too. You did really well.

A few notes.
A stretch straight stitch on my machine, is two steps forward, one step back, repeat, cha, cha, cha...
A stretch zigzag is instead of one to the right, one to the left, repeat... It's two to the left, two to the right. I believe they are standard on all the newer machines. I bought my machine in 1970 and it has a stretch stitch for every regular stitch. I don't use them much. They are slower.
RE: double needles. Some machines can not handle the wider ones. I'm pretty sure mine can't handle wide ones. Check your manual or contact the manufacturer to be sure. The size is dependent on the foot, a foot that can handle zigzag can probably handle the dble needle. On mine the opening in the ... throat plate(?) can be flipped around. One way for straight stitch, to help with not gobbling up the fabric. The other way for zigzag. Also the inards have to have a large enough opening for dbl needle to go down inside and grab the bobbin thread. Check your manual or with the manufacturer.
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Elfish
« Reply #28 on: May 27, 2008 07:09:04 PM »

Cute top!  If you use a twin needle, your hem will stretch.
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pinkpoodle230
« Reply #29 on: May 27, 2008 08:04:24 PM »

Its so cute! I love the fabric, andim pretty sure that style would be called "babydoll" but i could be wrong
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Raina_Zen
« Reply #30 on: May 28, 2008 12:37:09 AM »

very cute, i love fabric with fruit on it. i have a strawberry dress and i wear it all the time.
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Euphoriaa
« Reply #31 on: May 28, 2008 05:29:42 AM »

As requested and to answer some questions hopefully...

**Mini Tute For Bust**
Please keep in mind I used scrap material that is not stretchy so results may vary a little but it is generally the same idea. Also I wouldn't normally sew this messy. Grin

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a256/lunatea86/STep1.jpg
This is the top I used as a reference for "Apples and Strawberries". I measured the bust and added a few more inches (for seam allowance and also to make up for any length loss when gathering). For mine I used 17".

You can make the width as wide you want to depending on how much boob you want to cover. I used 6". Double this measurement and then cut out your rectangular shape using fabric of your choice. (First pic below). Then fold this in half right sides together and sew along the bottom as shown. Turn right way out.
http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a256/lunatea86/Step2and3.jpg

Next find the middle of your "tube". Sew two lines about a cm apart with your stitch length and width set as high as they can go (like a tacking/basting stitch). DO NOT backstitch at all and leave threads longish on each end. Then pull on the bottom threads (bobbin thread). In my picture its the white one. This will create your lovely gathers which you can play around with until they are how you like. On my original top I tied these threads together on the back and then straight stitched over the gathers so they stayed put.
http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a256/lunatea86/Step456.jpg

Now time for the "tab". Make a tube like I have below (same technique as bust but on a much smaller scale) and don't mind my scrappy bit of fabric. Then sew the top and bottom together to make a ring shape.
http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a256/lunatea86/Step78.jpg

Slip it over your bust piece and voila!!
http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a256/lunatea86/Step9.jpg


Now all you need to do is make the body of the tank like a regular tube top but for under the bust use the curve of your bust piece (See arrows-this curve). When sewing this curved bodice on catch the bottom of the tab (red in pics) in the seam.

I hope this makes sense.
Happy sewing!!
« Last Edit: August 11, 2010 01:01:35 PM by jungrrl » THIS ROCKS   Logged
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« Reply #32 on: May 28, 2008 06:25:19 AM »

Oh my gosh, I've always wanted to know how to do that! Thank you so much! The top is terribly cute, btw! I love it! Cheesy
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« Reply #33 on: May 28, 2008 06:41:26 AM »

I like the colours a lot  Smiley
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« Reply #34 on: May 28, 2008 08:20:49 AM »

That is a beautiful top!! I love the colors you used, and the way the bust looks like a bow. Too cute!
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Helio
« Reply #35 on: May 28, 2008 08:50:23 AM »

Simple and so nice! I love it!
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donniesgirl
« Reply #36 on: May 28, 2008 05:38:41 PM »

Super cute!
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« Reply #37 on: May 28, 2008 07:51:06 PM »

Just finished making TWO--super easy and super cute.  Very quick.  Uploading pics now.
 THANKS Grin Grin Grin Grin Grin Grin Grin Grin Grin
« Last Edit: May 28, 2008 07:53:43 PM by supermedic » THIS ROCKS   Logged
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« Reply #38 on: May 30, 2008 10:40:25 AM »

thanks pseudo pix for the double needle thing - i've just started using stretch fabric and this explains how to do proper seams!  and cute top euphoriaa, great for summer!
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« Reply #39 on: May 30, 2008 11:54:14 AM »

i love it. (:
the strawberry apple fabric is cutee.
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