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Topic: Faux Jade with Kato Polyclay  (Read 2620 times)
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Nuhbe
« on: May 01, 2008 02:48:22 PM »

Hi all!! Lot of time since last time posting there... here  some  pieces I made with Kato polyclay (my first time with Donna's clay) I made several mixes, that's why every piece looks different




Comments are welcome!!!
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Ginger Child
« Reply #1 on: May 01, 2008 02:57:50 PM »

This seems like such a fun project, and they look great!
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kabidesigns
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I Love the Magic World of Polymer Clay


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« Reply #2 on: May 01, 2008 03:02:03 PM »

 Grin  Beautiful! all are Beautiful!
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kaleesi
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Rae'Lynn Grace - 5 months old


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« Reply #3 on: May 01, 2008 03:11:01 PM »

They really look great - I especially like the earrings. They symbols and markings go well with the jade look to complete the authenticity Smiley
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I have a gorgeous granddaughter Smiley

Not allowed to craft without supervision Wink
God is big enough.....
yellowblanket
« Reply #4 on: May 01, 2008 09:38:12 PM »

wow that's amazing!
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my wists: http://www.wists.com/yellowblanket

will knit for: earrings, cloth pads, homemade soaps, and handspun yarn. PM me if you want to swap!
Diane B.
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GlassAttic --polymer clay "encyclopedia"


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« Reply #5 on: May 02, 2008 09:35:25 AM »

Pretty stuff!  How do you like working with Donna's clay?
Btw, did you sand and buff, or maybe just a little? ... can't tell from the photos.


If anyone else is interested in various ways to make faux jade with polymer clay, check out this page:
http://www.glassattic.com/polymer/Faux--many.htm
(...click on Jade...)



Diane B.
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POLYMER CLAY "ENCYCLOPEDIA" 
http://glassattic.com/polymer/contents.htm
few of my photos
http://s96.photobucket.com/albums/l163/DianeBB
(had to move them from YahooPhotos, so many now without captions)
TwitchyHamster
« Reply #6 on: May 02, 2008 08:12:16 PM »

I really like the lower right necklace. Beautiful.
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Nuhbe
« Reply #7 on: May 03, 2008 05:35:24 PM »

Thanks all!!!
kaleesi I like you think that, I was looking for matching textures and I definitely thought the best are those with oriental style.

Diane Well, my first impression with Donna's clay wasn't good because it smells a lot (and I hate when a craft material left its smell on my hands) and it resulted me really difficult for conditioning, it has a touch very elastic, but when you pass it trough pasta machine it "cracks" easy. But I found an incredible advantage with this clay, it shines a lot!!! You can see my pieces,I didn't sand or buff, just baked.

Anyway I don't like Kato's color palette, I'm so in love with Premo one that  I think I will use Kato for specifics works like faux surfaces.
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Diane B.
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« Reply #8 on: May 04, 2008 10:42:11 AM »

Quote
Diane Well, my first impression with Donna's clay wasn't good because it smells a lot (and I hate when a craft material left its smell on my hands) and it resulted me really difficult for conditioning, it has a touch very elastic, but when you pass it trough pasta machine it "cracks" easy.


I too thought I'd be bothered by the "new doll" smell because I'm very sensitive to smells, but when I first used it in a room with a bunch of other people using it too (at a Donna Kato class), it didn't bother me at all.  Were you in a place where you didn't have much ventilation? (Some of the older Kato clay had a somewhat stronger odor too).

The cracking during conditioning does happen sometimes (but you do get a great clay afterward).  Donna has suggested this way of conditioning her clay (which requires compression at first) --written by Margaret Donnelly (from my site):

a. Cut your block of clay into medium thick slices.
b. Compress the slices with your acrylic rod (roll over them firmly) on your work surface to soften the clay (this will lessen crumbling when put through the past machine) (... can join flattened slices together side by side) ...(or whack with a hammer or something similar)
c. Starting with the widest setting, run the clay through the pasta machine. Fold and run through again, placing the folded side first through the rollers.
d. Change the setting on the pasta machine to the 3rd thickest, fold the clay and roll through, fold side first..... Fold and roll until conditioned.
(....Kato Polyclay may still have rough edges even when conditioned... the feel of the clay is the indicator for conditioned clay (soft, supple).
...Gail Ritchey's lesson with same instructions (though passes through 25 times!)
http://www.firemountaingems.com/beading_howtos/beading_projects.asp?docid=690C&sact=search


Quote
But I found an incredible advantage with this clay, it shines a lot!!! You can see my pieces,I didn't sand or buff, just baked.


Kato Polyclay has a natural "sheen" after baking because of its incredible density (it's actually vacuum extruded).  Most people love the look, but there is one problem that can come up-- polyurethanes like Varathane and possibly the gloss finishes made for polymer clay won't stick directly to it well because of the density... again though there are some workarounds:

....if you are using Kato clays you may need to apply the thinnest little layer of the liquid clay first, to give the piece some "tooth" for the Varathane to hold onto
........I apply it with a makeup sponge, or a drop or two then smear with a finger, bake for 10 min... then Varathane. Sarajane
...Kato Polyclay has water-repellent properties (even more than other polymer clays) ...since some waterbase finishes could contain in excess of 50% water in the formulation, those finishes could bead up, puddle, or peel off later when used with it. The key to making those finishes work with Kato Polyclay is surface preparation, though it involves an extra step. There are two ways to do this:
---1. rub a very small amount of Kato liquid clay into the surface of the cured clay (as if you were waxing it), then remove all excess with a paper towel or soft cloth (do not cure)...then just brush on or dip into the Varathane
..........if you want, for extra toughness in the finish, bake again after the Varathane has dried
---2. or paint a thin coat of Kato liquid clay onto the cured clay surface, then cure. ...after it has cooled, brush on or dip into the Varathane (and cure again for extra toughness if desired).
......What causes the liquid polyclay to bond or join these two products? Does it not also have the same water-repellent properties as solid Kato Polyclay? The Kato Liquid Polyclay does repel water but it is not pigmented in the same manner therefore increasing its acceptability." (We know it has excellent adhesion to the polyclay because it is a liquid version)...I believe that the compatibility lies in the polymer and plasticizer. The Varathane, besides its water content, also contains a polymer and plasticizer in its formulation. It is unknown to me which ones they are but they bond and are compatible to the liquid polyclay.
......at this time I do not know about the other Rustoleum/Varathane finishes.
......I do know that many artists use Future floor wax on Kato Polycay with good results (Lisa Pavelka, a rep for Kato clay, uses Future).
......By the way, there is a plan to upgrade the Kato Polyclay website and hopefully it will contain the answers to frequently asked questions. Tony
...Ah ha! That's why it worked for me on the last batch of beads. I used my VERY old indoor (water-washup) Varathane on them, and it's water content is probably very much lower than the new outdoor stuff I have, which caused me problems awhile back. Patti
... A new finish may also be developed for Kato Polyclay by Van Aken.


Quote
Anyway I don't like Kato's color palette, I'm so in love with Premo one that  I think I will use Kato for specifics works like faux surfaces.

Kato Polyclay doesn't sell "pre-mixed" colors like the other brands of polymer clay do.  It just sells the purest form of each color that the lab can get, so that the maximum number of colors can then be mixed from them (that's why she calls them "spectral" colors --they're the pure colors of the rainbow-"spectrum"... not so good for those who don't like to mix their own additional colors though). 
When many of the colors from other brands are mixed together, some colors can't be mixed because the original colors may have already been toned down (by adding brown or gray, or some form of the color's complement) or have had black or white added.
(Premo is a little different though because it has at least 6 versions of primary colors that are also fairly pure, though they're on the "warm" and the "cool" side to mimic the way that oil paints are sold.)


Diane B.
« Last Edit: May 04, 2008 10:49:32 AM by Diane B. » THIS ROCKS   Logged

POLYMER CLAY "ENCYCLOPEDIA" 
http://glassattic.com/polymer/contents.htm
few of my photos
http://s96.photobucket.com/albums/l163/DianeBB
(had to move them from YahooPhotos, so many now without captions)
Nuhbe
« Reply #9 on: May 04, 2008 02:15:10 PM »

You're really a polymer clay wise ^^

Thanks for tips to condition, next time I'll take it into account Wink
About smell, yeah, probably I should work in a place with open windows or something, but the problem is in my hands, I don't like when something leaves its smell although it isn't the big inconvenient because I also work with resin and that's really really smellier!!!  Lips sealed Lips sealed Lips sealed Lips sealed

I didn't think about shine-density problem, another thing to take into account.

It's interesting why Kato only make those colors, and it's really funny to make your own mixes, but I prefer to work with pre-made colors, I usually find what I search in Premo palette, if not it's for sure I will find it with Sculpey or Fimo (now also Kato), luckily I don't use an unique brand because my creations allows me to mix and that's really cool ^^

Once again, thanks!
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