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Topic: My first post...handmade soap!  (Read 1709 times)
Tags for this thread: soap , lavender , vanilla , cinnamon , oatmeal  Add new tag
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Dirty Damsel
« on: August 30, 2008 11:01:15 AM »

So I'm kinda sad that I am just now finding this site... it's as if i found my internet home. Cheesy
Yesterday was my first day ever messing with soap.. so I'm a newbie. I generally stay in the drawing/painting/ceramics
area but on occasion i sew and redo furniture and use my jigsaw..now today i made soap.

 
jasmine lotus lavender with vanilla topping.



Cinnamon Oatmeal Almond breakfast bar


A few questions? Do they look okay? I bought goats milk soap base with lye in it.. so i can practice before i mess with lye myself... I used the hp method but it had lye..so do i call them hp or cp soaps? Are they ready to use as soon as they harden or do they need to cure as well? Thank you!
« Last Edit: September 02, 2008 08:18:26 PM by Dirty Damsel » THIS ROCKS   Logged
kittyscorner
« Reply #1 on: August 30, 2008 01:53:52 PM »

Hi there,

Very nice soaps! I love the lavender one  Wink

Maybe I can help answer a few questions, I run Kangaroo Blue Smiley

What kind of soap base did you get? was it a CP shredded up soap and you rebatched using HP method? if so, as soon as it's harden you should be able to use it.

Have fun making soap! it is very addicting!!
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Check out my blog Wink  http://kittyscorner.com
gigiallin
« Reply #2 on: August 30, 2008 05:21:34 PM »

Love the soaps! I bet they smell great. Technically, your soaps are rebatched or hand-milled. HP and CP refer to soaps that are made from scratch. The base you purchased was probably CP.
You don't need to cure them. That's really only neccessary for CP soap.
Welcome to Craftster!
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mullerslanefarm
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« Reply #3 on: August 30, 2008 06:14:40 PM »

I run Kangaroo Blue Smiley


Hey neighbor - didn't know you were here.

As the others said, you bought a base that was made with lye.  There isn't (shouldn't be) any active lye in it.

Depending how much liquid you used when you shredded and 'melted' the soap will determine how quickly they will harden up (as well as the oils used in the original soap and how superfatted it was)  You should be able to get these answers from the supplier.

Have fun!

« Last Edit: August 30, 2008 06:17:15 PM by mullerslanefarm » THIS ROCKS   Logged

Cyndi

http://www.mullerslanefarm.com
Our Lessons in Homesteading
Dirty Damsel
« Reply #4 on: August 30, 2008 10:23:01 PM »

Thank you.. Alright well I bought the goats soap base from a small goats farm and it came as a 10 pound chunk... I was told to cut it into small chunks and melt it.. BUT they told me to wear gloves when I cut it up because it's still fresh and sticky inside from the lye. I just wanted to make sure before I gave them out to friends/family to sample. Is it possible to ever get the smell of goats milk out of the soap? I put extra FO and they both smell good I guess I'm just not use to that smell because everyone else smells the FO's Tongue
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mullerslanefarm
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« Reply #5 on: August 31, 2008 06:41:54 AM »

If the soap is smelling of ammonia, it is just the reaction of the milk and lye and yes, it does go away.

The milk itself, if it got too hot, would leave a carmel-y smell because of the natural sugars in the milk burning.

How much FO did you use when you rebatched (chunking & melting) the soap?  Using too much can cause a problem.  With regular CP soaps, I'll use about .5-.7 oz per pound of oils (some folks use 1 oz per pound of oils).  For rebatching and HP, you can use less.

I don't see any obvious FO pockets in the finished soap, so you probably did okay with that.

With the lavender, I can still see bits of unmelted soap base - no big deal - it lends to the rustic look of the bars.

How hard are the bars?  I see from the soap label that the oils used were coconut, soy bean & sweet almond.  Both Soy & Almond are soft oils that rarely harden up.

Little soapmaking jargon lesson:

CP refers to making soap from scratch using oils, liquid & lye without any added heat (other than to initially melt the solid oils).

HP is the same as CP except after you combine the oils & lye solution, you add heat to speed up the saponification time. 

Properly made, both CP & HP are ready to use after they have cooled in the mold.  The extra 'curing' is to allow any extra liquid used with the lye to evaporate giving you a harder bar that lasts longer.
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Cyndi

http://www.mullerslanefarm.com
Our Lessons in Homesteading
kittyscorner
« Reply #6 on: August 31, 2008 12:06:36 PM »

Hey Cindi, good to see you here too Smiley

I'm a knitter and sewer-wanna-be lol

I run Kangaroo Blue Smiley


Hey neighbor - didn't know you were here.

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Check out my blog Wink  http://kittyscorner.com
gigiallin
« Reply #7 on: August 31, 2008 12:34:12 PM »

... they told me to wear gloves when I cut it up because it's still fresh and sticky inside from the lye...

The heat from melting it should have finished the saponification proccess. Essentially you cooked like you would have if you were making HP.
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charlamagne
« Reply #8 on: September 10, 2008 03:30:53 PM »

where do you get fragrance oils?Huh especially the lotus one???
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mullerslanefarm
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« Reply #9 on: September 11, 2008 05:20:12 AM »

There is a pretty comprehensive list of fragrance and oil suppliers (and the scents they carry) at http://www.fragranceoilfinder.com/catalog/index.php
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Cyndi

http://www.mullerslanefarm.com
Our Lessons in Homesteading
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