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Topic: Yohji Yamamoto Jacket - free pattern  (Read 4702 times)
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wzrdreams
« on: March 10, 2008 07:29:14 PM »

The pattern is found at: http://www.showstudio.com/projects/ddl_yamamoto/download.html















I taped the pattern together on Wednesday 3/8/08. I cut out the pattern and fabric on Thursday, sewed a bit on Friday night, all day Saturday (it rained ALL DAY), and I finished on Sunday (yesterday! 3/9/08) around 4pm and staged a fast photo shoot in the dying light. I am wearing it today and I cant believe I bought the fabric last Thursday.

Construction Notes:
- I bought 2.5 yards of grey heavy double knit wool (60 wide) for $18/ yard at Mood, NYC. I discovered that the pattern actually uses about 1.25 yards. Oh well.
- I lined this jacket, mostly because I had the silk satin already and I dont have a serger so a lining is a nicer finish.
- If I had a serger, I wouldnt have lined this jacket since the double knit looks the same on both sides. (My vintage Sears Kenmore has great stretch stitch functions, so I dont have problems sewing knits.) If I had known for sure that I was going to line this, I might have picked a lighter weight single knit just sayin.
- Lining the jacket renders the smaller striped area on the back pattern pointless it serves as a facing/hem for an unlined version. I have no idea what the striped areas on the short ends of the front piece are for since they are completely enclosed.
- I definitely recommend stay stitching the corners of the back piece that become the armpit and the middle flap (noted on the patterns by the stars) on both shell fabric and lining since they need to be clipped for optimum mobility. (By middle flap I refer to the striped section opposite the dart.)
- I did not cut/sew a dart in the lining... I did it as an inverted box pleat.
- I cut off the sleeve hems of the lining, and seamed them to the knit sleeve hems. This keeps the lining shorter and thus inside the sleeve.
- Since I lined the jacket, I did not sandwich the back in between the folded edges of the front. Rather, I seamed one edge of the front piece to the Back (pressed seam OPEN), and then seamed the other edge of the front to the back lining piece (press seam CLOSED).
- I trimmed all seam allowances aggressively to combat the bulkiness, and I zig-zag stitched the remaining seam allowances together to hold it all in place (not the sleeve SAs).
- I was extremely disciplined about steam pressing every seam as I was working.
- At this point the jacket was all constructed (inside out) except for the middle flap, which I used to turn the jacket right side out. I slip stitched the middle flap closed and added the metal snap.
 
And that is basically it. Even though I was figuring it out as I did it, it was pretty simple.
It does help to have some intermediate experience with sewing and constructing, but nothing out of the ordinary.
I had some helpful tips from squirrellypoo.

A note on size: I am 510 with a 39.5 chest. I find this jacket to be a bit snug. Do-able, but the snap likes to pop open. Now that I have made it once, I think it would be very easy to adjust this pattern to be larger. For anyone my size wanting to try this, I would recommend making a mock up in a cheap fabric to check the size. Then, its simply a matter of deciding how much and where. Just slash & spread horizontally and/or vertically on the pattern pieces, being careful to do make the same changes for the corresponding seams on both front & back.

To see more finished pics and construction details check out my flickr set: http://www.flickr.com/photos/wzrdreams/sets/72157604089867284/
« Last Edit: March 10, 2008 07:40:17 PM by wzrdreams » THIS ROCKS   Logged
jerryleetypes
« Reply #1 on: March 10, 2008 07:42:35 PM »

Well sewn. Leave it to the Japanese to design clothing that doesn't make any sense! Not a criticism of your work, you did a great job making it, but the design is really odd.
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wzrdreams
« Reply #2 on: March 10, 2008 08:20:08 PM »

I fell in love with this design almost immediately specifically because of it's ingenuity, creativity, and simplicity. This design is definitely Japanese! It reminds me of a kimono because it folds up almost into a perfect rectangle, and it reminds me of origami because it only takes a few simple folds to bring it all together. To anyone who thinks it doesn't make sense I say try cutting out the instruction diagram to see how simple it really is.
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ingysoup
« Reply #3 on: March 10, 2008 09:01:44 PM »

I like the jacket very much, and since I'm a beige-kinda lady, I love the fabric.  I probably wouldn't have commented (thinking you'll get a ton of great replies) except that your *notes* on your project are so incredibly well done, that I had to give you huge kudos for that alone! I enjoyed reading them alone as an intermediate beginner sewer.  Thanks for sharing, and enjoy your new jacket!
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Rubo
« Reply #4 on: March 10, 2008 09:11:06 PM »

LOVE IT!!!
I will try making this myself on the weekend. I have some stretch knit fabric that would look perfect in this design.
Thanks for sharing your notes, will let you know how it goes!!
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squirrellypoo
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« Reply #5 on: March 11, 2008 04:19:00 AM »

Absolutely beautiful, and I'm so glad I inspired you even a little bit! It's interesting that you say it's snug on you, as I'm 5'8" with a 38" chest (so not far off) and I've not had any popping problems. Maybe you just need a stronger closure? I used a magnetic snap designed for handbags and it seems to work fine.

Just a few more weeks and I can bring mine out of winter storage... I have a feeling you're going to get SO much wear out of yours!
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missjesswinkwink
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« Reply #6 on: March 12, 2008 05:43:03 PM »

Yes, that fabric is delicious. Well played!
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spaghetti_jockey
« Reply #7 on: March 13, 2008 05:18:11 PM »

Wow. I really, really like this!

Was it difficult to make? I'm sort of a beginner..
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crystalpeace
« Reply #8 on: June 08, 2008 09:33:29 PM »

i am tempted to make this as a wrap for me at my brothers wedding next april. but i will have to wait till i know what the bridesmaid dresses looks like as i will have to wear it over it, i tend to get cold pretty easily
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princesspepper
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« Reply #9 on: June 09, 2008 10:21:18 AM »

This is so beautiful  Shocked. I love Japanese designs like Yamamoto or Kawakubo. And your jacket is elegant and edgy at the same time. Thanks for sharing.
do you think it would work better with stretch or non-stretch fabric?
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