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Topic: Split Skirt?  (Read 460 times)
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Euphony
« on: February 12, 2008 03:16:17 PM »

I love split skirts, I have not found a pattern for one.  But I got to thinking that it shouldn't be too hard to adjust a pattern for a pair of pants.  My question would be - do you start to flare out at the waist or the hip (or someplace entirely different)?
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marypoppins
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« Reply #1 on: February 13, 2008 06:28:01 AM »

 I have never done this but I would think it would depend on the fit of the pants pattern.  If it is a fitted top part, I would probably start the flare from the hips.  If it is a looser top part, you could start higher.
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« Reply #2 on: February 13, 2008 08:16:05 AM »

Usually the flare is an even line from the waist to the hip and downwards from there.  The line should blend and the shouldn't be any sudden jags outward. You will need to add to the inseam to preserve the crease line; which is also the grainline and essential for pants that are balanced and fit well.

The classic method taught by most drafting books is to cut up the crease line grain line and close the dart, being sure that the fullness on the hem is equal on both sides of the crease line.

Here's a quick and dirty illustration of the two methods. (Ignore the ugliness, I did it with whatever pen was next to the computer)  The red dashed line is the alteration on the top drawing, the second is with the dart taped shut and the alteration is in the middle of the pants.  The crease line is also the grainline and it is always in the center of the leg, and you will want to have the same amount of fullness on both sides of the crease line.  Needless to say, you'll need to experiment and test this in scrap cloth to fine tune the fit.  Hope that helps a bit. And I hope the picture shows up!

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Euphony
« Reply #3 on: February 13, 2008 09:50:27 AM »

OOOOOOOOO that helps a lot KittenKaboodle!!  It sounds like I'll have a lot of trial and error before I get it right, I'll have to hit a good muslin sale!
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