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Topic: Beer Gloves!!! AAARRRRGHHH!!! Help!! Please!!  (Read 3175 times)
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thankyoulocust
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« on: January 23, 2008 11:52:30 AM »

Sound a bit desperate?  I am.  Ok, I'm knitting trying to knit the beer gloves from Son of Stitch n' Bitch.  I'm still on the first row because I've read ahead a bit and feel fairly confident in saying that I don't know what the hell is going on.

The main issue is that the pattern calls for you to use 2 circular needles instead of dpn's.  Well, I'll grow balls before I'm gonna spend $60 on 4 circular needles to make 1 pair of gloves.  So, I'm mentally adjusting all the numbers and stuff, but there's still an issue with one part of the pattern.  Basically, you do the ribbing and then work the cable pattern till the glove is x inches from beginning.  Well, then comes the thumb and it says this:

Thumb Opening

Next rnd: Work to last 7 sts of Needle 1, with wy p7, slip these 7 sts to LH needle and p7 with working yarn; work to end of rnd.

Continue working in patt as est until piece meas 7 1/2" from beginning.  Place all sts on holders.

Thumb

Carefully remove wy from thumb opening, placing lower 7 sts on Needle 1 and upper 8 sts on Needle 2.  Pm, PU 2 sts in gap between needles, p7, PU 2 sts in gap, p8--19 sts; 9 on Needle 1, 10 on Needle 2.

Next rnd: Needle 1, p6, p2tog, p1.  Needle 2, p7, p2tog, p1--17 sts.

Cont even in Rev St st for 1".

Next rnd: Needle 1, (k1, p1) 4 times.  Needle 2, (k1, p1) 3 5im3w, k1, p2tog--16 sts.

Next rnd: *K1, p1; rep from * around.

Using invisible BO method, BO.




So.  Uhhhh.  I don't know if I've just got some kind of mental block or what, but every time I even TRY to read that part, I feel like I'm morphing into Pauly Shore or something.  Someone.  Anyone.  HELP ME!!!  Does anyone have even a clue as to how to adapt the above to DPNs?

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AWynkoop
« Reply #1 on: January 23, 2008 12:13:34 PM »

are you using a set of 4 dpn's or a set of 5?


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thankyoulocust
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« Reply #2 on: January 23, 2008 12:48:17 PM »

Currently, 5.  But, it could be 4, if necessary.  I prefer 4.  But, either way is doable.  As you can see, I'm very decisive. Smiley
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atroxsilentium
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« Reply #3 on: January 23, 2008 01:23:12 PM »

Ok, so look through the pattern to determine how many stitches are on needle one and how many are on needle two at the point of the thumb opening placement.  Hopefully that won't entail ridiculous backtracking (I don't have that book)  Then you'll simply have to count the stitches out from the beginning of the round on your dpns. 

(ie. If there are 30 stitches on needle 1 and 30 stitches on needle 2, you would then work in pattern for 23 sts (30-7) and work the thumb opening with waste yarn at these next seven stitches.)

As for working the thumb later on, just ignore the "needle 1" and "needle 2" stuff and just use your dpns. (Put lower 7 stitches on one dpn and upper 8 stitches on another dpn.)  Then, after you pick up the extra stitches, you can re-distribute to 3 dpns to make it workable.. Then just follow the pattern in the round.

I think you'll be fine as long as you keep track of where your round starts.

Does that make sense?
« Last Edit: January 23, 2008 01:26:36 PM by atroxsilentium » THIS ROCKS   Logged
AWynkoop
« Reply #4 on: January 23, 2008 01:38:33 PM »

for dividing your stitches onto dpn's (5 is good in this case)
circ 1: divide these stitches evenly between dpn1 and dpn2
circ 2: divide these stitches evenly between dpn3 and dpn4 (I have not seen the pattern, but assume the cable is worked on circ 2- in this case I would not use 5 needles, I would use four and put all the stitches for circ 2 on dpn3.)

Quote
Next rnd: Work to last 7 sts of Needle 1, with wy p7, slip these 7 sts to LH needle and p7 with working yarn; work to end of rnd.

rewritten for dpns...Work to last 7 sts of dpn2, with waste yarn p7, slip these 7 sts to LH needle and p7 with working yarn. (This is basically holding the stitches that will become the thumb hole. You purl them with waste yarn to mark the spot, put them back on the lh needle and work them again so you can continue working the rest of the glove without breaking your yarn.)

When you remove the waste yarn you are left with a opening for the thumb.

I have no idea what '5im3w' means...can you tell me what the abbreviations stand for and I can help with the rest...
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thankyoulocust
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« Reply #5 on: January 23, 2008 02:10:26 PM »


I have no idea what '5im3w' means...can you tell me what the abbreviations stand for and I can help with the rest...

Oops!  That means I'm a spaz and was typing with my fingers on the wrong keys.  That should say times, not 5im3w.  Heh. Grin

Thanks for the help!!  I'm gonna try it!
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AWynkoop
« Reply #6 on: January 23, 2008 08:17:33 PM »

Quote
That should say times, not 5im3w.  Heh.

lol, that makes much more sense! Hope everything works out!

let me know if you need more help, I can't wait to see them finished!
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I would like to swap my knits (or amigurumi stuffies) for your handmade journal...pm me!

The pessimist sees difficulty in every opportunity. The optimist sees the opportunity in every difficulty.~Winston Churchill
redwitch
« Reply #7 on: January 23, 2008 08:23:32 PM »

No adaptation necessary - just think about what stitches you would be knitting if you were on 2 circs for a particular instruction. I would consider the start of round in your knitting to be the same as the start of circ 1 in the pattern (assuming that's the way the pattern does it) and place the join between another pair of DPNs. Alternatively you can place markers to show where 'circ 1' and 'circ 2' are.

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fetchboi40639
« Reply #8 on: February 05, 2008 11:26:14 AM »

I have a question about the Beer gloves.  I'm working on them right now and umm... The cable stitch pattern has rows 1-8, but then says repeat rows 1-12 for pattern.  I am assuming that I should repeat rounds 1-8, but I guess we'll see how that goes.
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eveneve
« Reply #9 on: December 24, 2008 06:09:11 PM »

I wrote out a chart of the pattern to help me remember where I was in the pattern. Just use a stitch counter to keep up where you are. I didn't use circular needles, I don't have any. I used double pointed needles.
Cast on 40 stitches place a marker before the first stitch you cast on, and a different colored marker after the 20th stitch.

[What it says in book]

Whale spine cable stitch:
Rnds 1 & 2: k12
rnds 3: slip first 3 stitches onto extra needle and hold to back, knit next 3 stitches, knit stitches on extra needle, slip next 3 stitches onto extra needle and hold to front, knit next 3 stitches and then knit the 3 stitches on the extra needle
Rnds 4-8: k12

(In book: cuff title): K2, p2 for 2 1/2" (2 1/2" = 15 rounds)

(In book: Body title):
Chart = whale spine cable stitch (in eights)-row number-palm chart (1-15)
1-16 [needle 1 (palm),*p2, pfb (purl front and back of one stitch), p2; repeat from * to end. needle 2 (back of hand), p2, pfb, p3, *k1, m1 (make 1= pick up bar between stitches and knit through back loop), k1; repeat from * 3 times more, p3, pfb, p2-(50sts:24 on needle 1, 26 on needle 2.]
2-17 [needle 1, purl. needle 2, p7, work row 2 of whale spine cable stitch over next 12 sts, p7.continue in rev st st(purling)and cable stitch as established until glove measures 5"(=30 rows)from beginning]
3-18
4-19
5-20
6-21
7-22
8-23
1-24
2-25
3-26
4-27
5-28
6-29
7-30 (5")
____
(In book: palm chart title)(The palm chart is in the book, I didn't know how to write that here and wasn't sure how much of the pattern I was allowed to post, but I left out the palm chart chart, the fingers and how to change it to the right hand)
8-31-1 [needle 1, p4, work row 1 of chart over next 11 sts, p9. needle 2, continue in pattern as established until glove measures 5 1/4"(=32 rows) from beginning]
1-32-2(5 1/4")
____
(In book: thumb opening)
2-33-3[work to last 7 stitches of needle 1, with an extra piece of yarn p7, slip these 7 stitches back onto the left needle and purl the 7 stitches again but this time with the yarn you are knitting the gloves with; work to end of rnd. continue working in pattern as established until piece measures 7 1/2"(= 45 rows) from beginning. place all stitches on holders]
3-34-4
4-35-5
5-36-6
6-37-7
7-38-8
8-39-9
1-40-10
2-41-11
3-42-12
4-43-13
5-44-14
6-45-15 (7 1/2", place stitches on holders)

Then you just work the fingers as the pattern says in the book.

I believe where it says "Rep rnds 1-12 for patt." is a misprint and is supposed to say repeat rounds 1-8 for pattern.
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