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Topic: Bottle Cap Table Top  (Read 224709 times)
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wookieefeet
« Reply #100 on: July 30, 2007 01:38:10 PM »

Awesome Beer Pong table.

We've been experimenting and agree that the bottle caps need to be attached first. We poured a 1/8 inch thick layer of the epoxy down first. It may have been a little thinner, but not much. That was perfect. We pressed the caps into the epoxy before it set up, took care of any bubbles with the torch and that was that. Next day poured a thick coat over the top and took care of bubbles again. No problem. It came out crystal clear and amazing.

The only problem we had was this one cap that had been opened with a bottle cap remover. It slightly "ripped" one of the small flanges on the side of the cap and the air that was trapped in it kept coming out after the final coat was applied. I have now purchased a press that will reform any cap bringing it back to the correct shape as if it was on the bottle.  Here is the web address to it:
http://thebottlecapman.com/Tools%20&%20Accessories.htm
However, we just waited while the epoxy set up and popped the bubbles as they came out. Here is the kicker, there was one final bubble that wanted to come out, but it was right at the turning point of the epoxy setting up, the bubble actually turned tail and went back under the cap - pretty amusing.

We used the Enviro Tex Lite from Menards. Easy to get and no shipping costs.

We agree the multiple coats is a good idea. About 1/4 inch at a time. We haven't tried the pour over method to go over the wooden sides yet, but it should be ok.

Note - make sure the item your putting Epoxy in is VERY level.

Once the huge bar top is complete I will post pictures.
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zmenchhofer
« Reply #101 on: September 23, 2007 06:22:24 PM »

how do i keep the epox from running over the edges on a flat no edge table top??  i am planning on putting this on a new round end table/pubtable
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puppybreath
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« Reply #102 on: September 24, 2007 07:05:46 AM »

Well I know for a table that doesn't have edges to hold in the epoxy you can build a border/dam with the non-sticky side of packing tape facing the epoxy. When the epoxy hardens the packing tape comes right off. The tricky part is keeping the tape standing up and supporting the epoxy. On a table with straight edges you can just put a piece of wood behind the tape and vice it in place. On a round table, i'm not sure if the packing tape would be rigid enough by itself. But if you don't get a perfect edge, you can always sand it till it's pretty and polish it.
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zmenchhofer
« Reply #103 on: September 24, 2007 09:41:37 AM »

what grit sandpaper? and what do you use to polish it?
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puppybreath
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« Reply #104 on: September 24, 2007 11:05:43 AM »

Check out this thread. http://www.craftster.org/forum/index.php?topic=2157.60 There are 3 or 4 different projects on this thread and if you look at quartney's project on page 4 or 5 (or somewhere in there) they explain what I was talking about. I've never actually done this but i know it would work, it's how my dad does fiberglass. For my table, I built a lip, but that wouldn't be so easy on your round one. Anyway, check out this thread, there's a lot of useful info in there that I'm sure will help you.
« Last Edit: September 24, 2007 11:06:55 AM by puppybreath » THIS ROCKS   Logged

the jenya
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« Reply #105 on: September 29, 2007 09:01:11 AM »

Mattchu09, now I know what I must do! Although I have a lot more water and soda (plastic) bottle tops than beer. I may end up glueing a bunch down that I have painted in a mosaic fashion.
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catch22
« Reply #106 on: May 23, 2008 04:48:10 PM »

Great finished product!  Is the surface as flat/smooth and as good for bouncing as it appears?
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jyreardo
« Reply #107 on: June 01, 2008 03:06:31 PM »

I want to make a coffee table with a bottle cap top.

Are these the correct steps to doing the table the right way.....

1. Glue the bottle caps to the table

2. Pour epoxy over the caps

3. Let it harden.

4. Continue step 2 over and over until it is level


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johnny out that TEX
« Reply #108 on: June 22, 2008 02:51:18 PM »

heres my table

http://i122.photobucket.com/albums/o254/Green2g/IMG_0213.jpg
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bkate
« Reply #109 on: July 03, 2008 07:45:26 AM »

We pressed the caps into the epoxy before it set up, took care of any bubbles with the torch and that was that. Next day poured a thick coat over the top and took care of bubbles again. No problem.

I've never worked with epoxy before. Do you just basically point the blow torch at the bubble and it "goes away" or does it pop?  Do I need a real blow torch, or will one of those long handle grill lighters work?
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