Thanks everyone! You made my day!REVISED PATTERN
Since I kinda winged it, and I've never written a pattern, I'll try to relate what I did.... and hope it makes sense.
I began with the idea from Knitty.com's "Tempting" sweater
, which is entirely a k2p2 rib. Then I decided I'd be bored ribbing all the way.
First I figured out my gauge on my circulars (which was 4sts=1" or so), and multiplied 4 x 32 (I wear size x-small). That was the number I casted on, 128. Then I figured what cable-rib pattern would work for me, and ended up with a 16-stitch pattern. So if you want larger sizes, multiply by 34, or 36, etc...? BUT, if you want to do the exact same patter of cable-rib as me, then make sure total cast-on is a multiple of 16.
I ended up with 8 blocks of 16, or 128.<<<Edited to remove broken image...web address no longer exists >>>
I did k2, p2 until the piece measured about 3". SEE (A) ON PIC.
Keep a marker on the beginning of each round!
Then I did the following 16-stitch pattern: cable 6, p2, k2, p2, k2, p2. SEE (B) ON PIC.
Cabling 6 was done without cable needles, a left-twist cable. Just be consistent.
So it works out to:
for 3 rounds: k6, p2, k2, p2, k2, p2
on 4th rounds: twist k6, p2, k2, p2, k2, p2
for 5th and 6th rounds: k6, p2, k2, p2, k2, p2
Repeat that until you have done FIVE
Now it's time to switch the cables and ribs colums. SEE (C) ON PIC.
So from the beginning of the round, you have "below", a cable, then 2 columns of ribs, and so on, right? Now you'll do 2 columns of ribs, then the cable:
for 3 rows: k2, p2, k2, p2, k6, p2 (STILL A 16-stitch BLOCK)
for 4th row: k2, p2, k2, p2, twist k6, p2
for 5th and 6th rows: k2, p2, k2, p2, k6, p2
Repeat that until you have done APPROX. 2
CABLE TWISTS. Now it's time to increase for the bust. Measure against yourself to figure out if that's where you want to increase for the bust, anyway.
Increase by MAKING ONE at the columns of ribs. That means:
make one knitwise, k2, make one purlwise, p2,
make one knitwise, k2, p2, cable column, p2Does that make sense? The ribbing columns just get thicker, becoming k3, p3, k3, p2, cable 6, p2
. Basically, increase at even points along your block pattern, and you'll be okay.
Try to SEE (D) ON PIC
Continue till you have done 5 TWISTS ON THE CABLE (same as before), and switch the cable and rib row pattern back to the original CABLE first. Notice now you're cabling 8 though. That's right, the 9-stitch k3,r3,k3 rib colums get shrunken by one to cable 8 instead. If I lost you here, just wing it! Be consistent is all.
When you get to the underarm, SEE (E) ON PIC, return to a k2, p2 rib for about 1". EDIT EDIT EDIT
Now we're ready to figure out the top!THIS SECTION HAS BEEN REVISED AS OF 1/4/05
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You can try to figure out the Knitty.com TEMPTING sweater's way of using waste yarn to do the sleeves from here. I HAD NO IDEA WHAT WASTE YARN MEANT, so I winged it. RIGHT NOW I'M ATTEMPTING TO NOTE DOWN A BETTER WAY THAN WHAT I ACTUALLY DID. I HOPE IT WORKS:
(1) First, count your blocks. Are they an even number? Figure out how much you should allocate for underarms. I did one block (16 stitches) for each underarm, leaving 3 blocks for the front, 3 blocks for the back.
(2) So... you're at the beginning of a round here. RIB across the front (in my case, 3 blocks, or 48 stitches). You're now at underarm site one. Hold off the amount allocated for undearm with a stitch holder or another spare circular needle (in my case, 1 block, or 16 stitches). Cut yarn here if you need to, unless you have another ball. Leave 1st circular needle dangling across the front.
(3) Using 2nd circular needle and new yarn end, RIB across the back (in my case, 3 blocks, or 48 stitches) until the next underarm site. Again, hold off amount allocated for underarm with another stitch holder (in my case, 1 block, or 16 stitches).
(4) Now you have the front held with one circular, and the back held with another circular. Remember which is the front and back, okay? Mark it somehow. Ignore the underarms for now, and work on the front and back separately for an even amount of rows, until each is about 1.5" up.
(5) Now you should have a tube plus about 1.5" above the underarm site (this part will tuck in a bit?). Let's make the top of the shoulder now.
(6) Go back to the front section needle, which will again become your one and only needle. RIB across to underarm. CAST ON 32 (or about twice as much as you held off for the underarm).
(7) RIB across the back to the other underarm. CAST ON 32.
(8 ) Now you're a big circle again. RIB around this new big circle for about 0.5".
(9) Garter stitch 2 rows.
(10) Switch to k1, p1 ribbing for about 4 rows.
(11) Count your ribbing rows and figure out an even way to intersperse YARN OVER holes (For the ribbon).
(12) k1, r1 another 4 rows, and end with 2 rows garter stich before you bind off.
Now you have something that looks like this:<<<Edited to remove broken image...web address no longer exists >>>Now the cap sleeves!
Pick up, with your smallest circular needle, the sleeves. SEE PIC.<<<Edited to remove broken image...web address no longer exists >>>
I did k2, p2 ribs, but maybe you are better at it and can match up to the existing pattern, so you don't end up with that ugly line I got. About 3" or 18 rows later, I binded off.
When I had that last stitch hanging on the needle, I switched to crochet, and did 8 shells.
LIKE I SAID, A PAINFUL WEEK!
Next time I better write down what I'm doing as I go, huh?!