Well, a while back I had a weird dream where I was wearing an adorable kiddish dress that was fun to swirl in. So, I made it... I found it a couple of weeks ago and altered it a bit so that it would be more form-fitting.
I should probably iron it. Later.
Yes, I'm bony >.>
****TUT****
Bear with me...first tut. Hope it's acceptable though ^.^ If anything is unclear, let me know.
**REMEMBER TO LEAVE SEAM ALLOWANCE!**
1. The main (back) panel.
Put 1/4 measurements where they correspond (see image), AND measure from waist down how long you want it to be (I used 17"), then add another three inches for hemming AND for evening out the pointy hemline once it is sewn together. Because it is a flared skirt, use the hip measurement as a guide for the flare. Make sure you cut this on a fold! And DON"T push the cloth away after you're done cutting!
When you're done, it should look something like this:
Your bust to waist line shouldn't be straight, like mine, unless you are wonky shaped like I am...
2. The mini panels.
This is a bit tricky to explain, but here goes. Lay out the cloth that you just cut out the back panel from. Hopefully, you made a nice, clean cut. Use the cut edge as a guide for the mini panels. *The gray part represents what has already been cut out. Measure the 'flare' from the back panel (in between the lime green dots) and add those inches to flare the mini panels as well.
You four of these panels, two of them 'flipped over' like a mirror image.
It should look something like this:
3. The front panels.
Using the same pattern of the mini panels, add 1.5" along the 'purple' edge, or the edge with the 'down cut.'
Icky illustration, I know, but I'm tired. I'll make it pretty in the morning.
THE yellow part is the added inches.
4. The straps.
Easy right? Yup, they are. I measure mine using a yardstick--I lay the yardstick down on the cloth and trace it. But, you can do it however you want. The length is up to you, although I usually use around 10-11" on each strap. This strap shouldn't be thick, so make it's width 1.5"
Once you cut it, fold it in half, the wrong way facing out, and sew it together. Also sew together an 'end' so that you have flip it right-side-out.
Because I think I'm too tired to make any sense, here's a diagram of the pattern. And y'alls are crafters. You can make straps.
5. Sewing the back.
Take your back panel and pin a mini panel, slope going down, on each side. MAKE SURE that when you are sewing, the edges always match up. If you don't, it'll end up lopsided.
When you're done sewing on both sides, it should look like this:
6. Sewing front section.
Take a front panel and pin a mini panel, peaks matching, and pin it together. Don't be like me and end up putting it on the wrong side! Make sure that you leave the extra 1.5" free.
Repeat with the other panel.
Each panel should look something like this:
http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v51/Alatarial/sewing/?action=view¤t=kachow006.jpgNotice that it's taking form, as the seams act like darts. The hemline is pointy, and now is when you realize that those extra 3" will really come in handy.
7. *I have no idea what this is called, but let's call this the lining.*
Lay a front piece down on the fabric in a way that only the 'slope' and about 3 inches of the 'unsloped' area is actually on the fabric:
I'm using a scrap to do this, since it's more practical this way.
Pin it down and cut around the front piece.
Since the actual pic is a bit...confusing, I drew up another model.
Cut along the red dotted line...and pretend that the panel is longer.
When you're done, it should look something like this:
8. Repeat the same process for the lining of the two front panels.
9. Sewing in the lining
With the lining ON TOP of the panel (whichever one), on the panel's right side, the lining's wrong side, sew it alone the edge, leaving a small 1-ich gap along the top of the peak. That is wear the strap will go.
(Seam-ripper showing gap)
Flip it over and topstitch it, again, leaving the gap. Repeat for all panels.
10. Buttons.
Now, I'm not the expert when it comes to sewing the buttons and making button holes...so hopefully, you can figure that part out a bit on your own. Fold under the extra 1,5 " on both panels. Buttons go on the LEFT side. What I do is I decide how many buttons I want. For the 'tut' dress I used 7. Space the bottons close together until you reach the waist--then it is up to you how far apart they can go. Make sure you FOLD OVER the extra 1.5" and sew the bottons IN THAT SPACE. Measure how far out you want them to be...I used 1/4".
As for the botton-holes...well...my machine is on strike, so I did them by hand.
IF you don't want buttons, you can always use snaps, or even a zipper.
11. Sew the back panel to the front panels.
Match up the 'peaks' of the slopes and sew together.
12. NOW you can measure how long the straps should be. Once you have reached your desired length, turn the dress inside out and slip only the TIP of the strap into the gap. Sew it shut.
Pull the 'loose' end of the strap and it flip it back over. Topstitch the un-stitched area (gap).
Then stick the other tip of the strap through the TOP of the corresponding back panel gap. Sew it shut, and topstich. Do the same thing for the other strap.
13. Hemming.
Cut the bottom of the dress so that it is even all around. You can also round the sides, giving it a circle-ish shape instead of a boxy shape. I thought it looked pretty cool to just leave it the way it was ^.^ (and I was lazy...eh...I was tired).
Then fold over and hem.
*THE END*
Now try it on ^.^
Big Mama Hen pose
*****You can also wear this kind of dress with a petticoat!*****
