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Topic: Help recreating topshop ruched bum pencil skirt please!  (Read 4519 times)
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clairol5
« on: November 17, 2007 04:09:56 AM »

I saw this skirt in topshop yesterday and loved it, but as it's tweed and itchy i'd prefer it lined. It's also fairly expensive. Any ideas on how to recreate this or any patterns you know of? I've used patterns a lot before but never really adjusted them so any guidance would be very appreciated. The main part I can't get my head round is what shape the side pieces should be at the top to get the pleats.

Here's the skirt from the front. Click on the image to see the all important back. It's a bit hard to see in the picture, but there's a seam going down the middle of the back and a slit running up about 20cm from the bottom.

http://www.topshop.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?beginIndex=0&viewAllFlag=&catalogId=19551&storeId=12556&categoryId=74439&parent_category_rn=85550&productId=531371&langId=-1

Thank you for your help!
« Last Edit: November 17, 2007 04:12:18 AM by clairol5 » THIS ROCKS   Logged

Cheebz
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« Reply #1 on: November 17, 2007 06:51:13 AM »

I'd pattern the skirt like a normal pencil skirt, trace the cut-out of the pattern then extend the back waistband and center seam and gather it into the cut piece.
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sweetpadee
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« Reply #2 on: December 02, 2007 12:32:57 PM »

You know, there is a tutorial, or was a tutorial for a ruched skirt here on Craftster a while back. I'll see if I can find it somewhere. I believe that it may be the front that's ruched, but it's the same concept. Of course you would have to accommodate for your bum if it was on the front. I'll be back!
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sweetpadee
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« Reply #3 on: December 02, 2007 12:41:43 PM »

Okay that wasn't too hard to find!

http://www.craftster.org/forum/index.php?topic=72797.msg683863#msg683863

So basically you use the same concept. You can just draft or buy a pencil skirt pattern and do as Cheebz mentioned. This tutorial by dotty dot may make it easier for you to visualize what you need to do.
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clairol5
« Reply #4 on: December 02, 2007 01:40:50 PM »

Thanks for your help! I've had that thread bookmarked for ages. My main problem is that i can't get my head round how to cut the fabric for the pleated bit. How do i know what shape it should be when it's un-pleated?!
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sweetpadee
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« Reply #5 on: December 02, 2007 02:06:07 PM »

It's pretty much the same shape as the drawing in dotty dot's tutorial. There is a pic of the person wearing the skirt and right on top of it is the pattern that says "Fold" on it. That big v shape cut is the ruched edge (on the left side) and the attachment site (on the right side of the v).

It does look very strange and quite opposite of the look you are trying to achieve, but it really works!

Hmmm... Hopefully I can explain this correctly... And I'm assuming you have no pattern drafting/alteration experience, sorry if you do!

The side to be ruched is slashed (or cut) only to the side seam and then spread evenly between each slash. Those would be the sideways looking v's in the picture. That is how you get the shape when it's not sewn yet.

You basically just baste along the curved longer edge of that v and gather it until it fits the length of the other side of the v and sew them together much like a dart without the fabric in the middle.

I may be able to draft the pattern myself and show you the steps to getting the look if you would like. I will just need a bit of time, I'm currently trying to draft a pants pattern for my pattern drafting class and it's time consuming.

Hopefully that helps a bit. I'd be happy to answer any other questions.
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clairol5
« Reply #6 on: December 03, 2007 07:00:27 AM »

some little pictures would be really helpful to get my head round it! i've used patterns many times before but never been able to visualise how to alter them. For this skirt obviously i would just follow a regular pattern as you said and add that iron shaped back panel. My main problem as I said is then knowing how to cut the centre of the back side panels, the bits which would ruche onto the 'iron' shape. If you were able just to do a few sketches i would be so appreciative!
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craftgirl
« Reply #7 on: December 05, 2007 01:11:20 PM »



pic.1.... frist draw the curve as you like.
            I highlight the area that you have to trace off with black pencil.
pic 2.... You might want to spread out 4 lines, at the curve measure the curve & divided by
           4, do the same at the side seam as shown. 

            You want to spread the pattern only the bum curve but nothing at the side ...that
            why I wrote zero.  Spead more on top, not too much on the bottom line ( notice the
            originat skirt). I only put no. 1-2.5 for an example. You have to make the muslin and
            gather to fit the center back part (part that has zipper on) to see if they are too much
            or too little.
pic 3.     Black hightlight are spreading areas. Final pattern.
« Last Edit: December 05, 2007 01:13:55 PM by craftgirl » THIS ROCKS   Logged
clairol5
« Reply #8 on: December 06, 2007 01:46:52 PM »

WOW thank you so much. You are wonderful!!
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maliceson
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« Reply #9 on: January 13, 2008 02:40:07 PM »

I have never seen anything like this
it looks so flattering classic elegent and even cute
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~Ali

I like makin' my own clothes, wanna make a quilt,  wish I knew how to knit, and just started making jewelry...where am I gonna go from here?
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