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Topic: Hoodie Issues **TUTORIAL ADDED- Sewing in sleeves**  (Read 1314 times)
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vylentviolet
« on: September 13, 2007 11:19:57 PM »

I'm attempting my first ever hoodie from this tut http://www.craftster.org/forum/index.php?topic=177602.0 and I am only on the sleeve attachments. It looked fine until I sewed the first sleeve on. I took pics but the pattern on the fabric is so busy that you can't really see what I mean.

Soooo, I drew an illustration... (4.23 hours in MS Paint, btw.)

How should I attach the sleeves to avoid these bulges and dents?! Do I need to trim certain areas?
It's probably hard to understand what I'm talking about but I thought maybe someone has had the same problem.
« Last Edit: September 14, 2007 07:30:33 PM by vylentviolet » THIS ROCKS   Logged

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« Reply #1 on: September 14, 2007 12:26:59 AM »

It looks like you cut the sleeve incorrectly. Take apart an old t shirt and use that for a pattern.
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krissykat
« Reply #2 on: September 14, 2007 01:41:19 AM »

It looks to me like the edges of the shoulders don't match up on the front and back. Did they line up before you sewed the sleeve on?  Maybe the armpit and the sleeve aren't the same size around? Did you have to stretch either of them when you were pinning them?   

I learned how to do sleeves with lots of trial and error, and from tutorials on www.whatthecraft.ne t (thanks, smarmyclothes!). Click on "Tutorials" then on "Sleeves, photo tutorial" to see  step-by-step photos of attaching set-in sleeves. If you compare your hoodie with the one in the pictures, I'll bet you'll be able to figure out exactly went wrong. The tute that's just called "Sleeves" shows how to make a sleeve pattern. 

Good luck. I love that fabric! Your hoodie is going to be awesome!  Cheesy
« Last Edit: September 14, 2007 01:51:49 AM by krissykat » THIS ROCKS   Logged

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seampoints
« Reply #3 on: September 14, 2007 02:17:44 AM »

Sleeves are hard. Really, don't be too discouraged. It took me many tries at sewing in sleeves before I was confident that I could do it.

I think its really important to not be intimidated to try things that aren't always easy. Even if you make a complete botch of things it pushes you to learn new techniques and thats what will make you a better seamstress.

There could be a number of things going on here, its very difficult to see whats happening from your pictures. As already mentioned, your sleeve pattern could be wrong and thats why your having such a hard time. A sleeve should not be just a long rectangle shape. It will never work if you cut it out like that. If thats whats wrong this wont help and you will need to re-cut the pattern pieces.

What I think has happened is you have caught the sleeve fabric in the machine when you have sewn it on and or your seam allowance was not an even 3/8" all the way around. It could be this and a combination of the wrong pattern cut out, hopefully its just the first reasons and it can be fixed.

First off, carefully unpick your sleeve and and as much of the armhole seam as you can.


1.Ease stitch within the seam allowance along the curved edge of the sleeve pattern piece as shown above. Stop and start sewing before the curve of the edge of the pattern piece shape changes direction.

This means two rows of stitching 1/8 " or 3mm parallel to each other. You can later pull the bobbin thread to "ease" the shape of the sleeve so don't use an ultra small machine stitch.


2. Pin and sew up the armhole seam.

Sew from the point you unpicked it, in the direction of the blue arrow (A) Otherwise you might end up with (B)  Shocked Press the seam open with an iron






3. Insert the sleeve inside the garment so the fabric is right sides together as in (A) Pin the sleeve all the way round and ease up the fullness to get a good, even fit. (Pull the bobbin thread to ease) Tack/ baste the sleeve in by hand. This is important to check the fit and evenness of your ease, you don't want ruffles.



4. Take out the tacking and press the sleeve along the seamline taking out all the puckers. A is an iron B is the ironing board and C is the sleeve. hehehe Cheesy


5. Baste the sleeve back into place, fabric right sides together and underarm seams in line with each other as before.

The blue is the garment, the black is the sleeve. The big gray needle with the orange thread in pic A is how the machine needle should go in. I hope it kind of makes sense.

This bit is the trick/ skill to sleeves. Very carefully machine stitch an even 3/8" along the seamline. Sew all the way round. Use your free hand to smooth the fabric so it goes under the needle flat. ***Make sure you don't just have a smooth top fabric and the bottom fabric puckered and lumpy.***

You can stitch two parallel rows of stitching to be sure its not going to fall apart.

B. Cut off/ clip your excess seam allowance.

Finished Hoorah! Turn right side out and pimp around craftster. . Be sure to post the pics Vylent!

Just to quickly add. If it is that you've cut the wrong pattern shapes you might be able to still fix it rather than just starting again. You could recut the armhole and recut the top of the sleeve to the right shape. You could then just add a wider cuff on the bottom. Whatever you decide don't give up.

The pic ideas I stole from "Complete guide to sewing" Get a copy if you can, its a real must have book. Most people do a variation on the above and when you've done a few sleeves you'll find ways to cut the time down in putting them in.

Not wanting to hijack your thread but maybe we should edit the original post title to put something like **TUTORIAL ADDED- Sewing in sleeves** so anyone else who's stuck can find the pics.
« Last Edit: September 15, 2007 04:03:19 AM by seampoints » THIS ROCKS   Logged
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« Reply #4 on: September 14, 2007 02:24:45 AM »

first, it looks like the shoulder seam is way to low, it should be more actually on top of your shoulder and not around your arm (or maybe im just seeing that in the pictures and its not missplaced!) Did you cut the arm hole on a curve, and the sleeves on a curve? Try really hard to keep both fabrics completely flat as you sew them together and just go with the curves.

I just went and looked at the tutorial and it definitely seems like the armholes start pretty far down the arm instead of more on the shoulder.. and re-looking at your pictures i think you cut the arm hole and sleeves to small, for her tutorial, it dosnt look weird with the shoulders being so long because the sleeves are so loose.. so it flows nicely. I know it sucks to have to start over and get more fabric.. but you might want to start over.. and make your peices much bigger.. you can make them smaller if ya need to!
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vylentviolet
« Reply #5 on: September 14, 2007 07:29:35 PM »

WOW, Shocked I didn't expect such detailed responses! Thanks for the awesome tute, seampoints!
krissykat - Thanks, I am in love with the fabric. I hope it turns out!

I am definitely going to spend some time poring over this thread with my mom tomorrow. I hope to have it solved tomorrow and I will definitely post pics. Thanks, everyone. :]
« Last Edit: September 14, 2007 07:36:31 PM by vylentviolet » THIS ROCKS   Logged

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seampoints
« Reply #6 on: September 15, 2007 04:00:57 AM »

Goodluck with it.
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BethinAK
« Reply #7 on: September 15, 2007 09:25:13 AM »

I just had to say that I loved the computer drawings, but the intial illustration (which had me on the floor) and the tutorial drawing . Very, very clever people here.
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(alterego)kitty
« Reply #8 on: May 17, 2008 03:03:36 PM »

Thank you Seampoints! I've been searching all day for an explanation of easing. No one said to only pull on the bobbin thread.
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