Tangled Yoke Cardigan Knitalong

[smrjunior]

Here's something to consider, if you haven't started the sleeves yet. I found them much to wide (and so have several others) so I made them narrower. I think you could make the sleeves narrower and by the same number of stitches (well divided by 2 for 2 sleeves) as you made the body bigger. So if you added 20 stitches to the body, you could make each sleeve end up 10 stitches narrower and you would automatically have the right number of stitches for the yoke. Just something to think about. Do try on a sleeve when you get it about half done, to see if it is going to be too wide. I had to reduce mine a LOT, and I do not have skinny arms.

wow, yeah, I just looked at the numbers and they seem WAY off.  I ended up measuring I shirt that fits well and recalculating the whole sleeve-- skinnier at the bottom and wider at the top.  and because they're wider at the top, I think I'm going to just use the instructions for the medium size for the yoke.  that will probably end up working out better for me, anyway, since I'm kind of broad-shouldered.  thanks for that tip, I'm glad I didn't get any further on the sleeves before you warned me!

[Roe]

Yes, that's right. Don't pay any attention to the "no stitch" spaces. They are just there to make the chart line up properly.

The 10 increase for every 14 sts part means that for every 10 stitches on the row before, you will now have 14 stitches. These are your repeat sections. If you had put a marker after every 10 stitches on the previous row, then at the end of this row, you should have 14 stitches between each marker. It's a good idea to do this, because on every row you should have the same number of stitches (although that number will vary) between each pair of stitch markers. It makes it very easy to locate a mistake. Whichever pair has a different number of stitches between them is where the mistake is. It also makes it easy to check each repeat section as you go to make sure you don't end up finding mistakes later. I use teesy tiny rubberbands (for hair braids) as markers.

Ahhhh....... Thanks, that was helpful. I have a feeling I'm going to have to really focus on this chart. I didn't realize how many stitches I was going to have to keep track of. My guess is I will probably pull it out at least three times! 

[landry]

Finally got through the cables! I really wish I had thought of using lifelines like you guys are/will be.

[mmdm]

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2182/1678184577_5b52e98af4.jpg[/url]

Finally got through the cables! I really wish I had thought of using lifelines like you guys are/will be.

That's looking great! Love that rich color. I finished mine last night and hope to block it today.

[Roe]

Wow Landry, yours is beautiful. I'm gealous about your color choice. I'm using what I had in my stash, Watery- Rowan Felted Tweed, but seeing yours is making me wonder if I should have gone all out and got a different color.

love it!

[eilene]

I have a question about the neckline bind off that I confused about. The directions tell you to pick up & knit 102 stitches from the base of the neckline. Do you use a new skein of yarn to pick up & knit the stitches or do you just take a needle to pick up 102 purl bumps from the base of the neckline? I'm confused about this. Normally...when you pick up stitches you use a skein of yarn...but this seems like it could be different. Help!!!

[knittinfiasco]

It says pick and knit because some knitters interpret "pick up x stitches" differently.

Yes, you should begin with a new yarn.

[eilene]

Thank you!!

[landry]

Finished!







Thankfully, it softened up a lot after a dip in Soak. I ended up only using 5.5 balls of Rowan Felted Tweed in Phantom because of the 3/4 sleeves.

[julsey723]

Wow, Landry! That looks AWESOME!

The dark color really does show off the cable pattern nicely.

Good work!!!