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Topic: Clapotis Tip Sheet  (Read 13173 times)
Tags for this thread: clapotis , knitty , drop_stitch , wrap , shawl , scarf , french , tip  Add new tag
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PimpernelSmith
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« on: August 12, 2007 08:33:46 PM »

Clapotis Tips & Advice Sheet

As the Clapotis KAL is approaching 200 pages, it is getting very difficult for new 'clappers' to find specific information/aid.  I have tried to consolidate the most commonly requested & useful bits of advice here.

It's taken from throughout the thread, too many people to cite every individual source, so thanks to everyone!

Knittys Clapotis:

http://knitty.com/ISSUEfall04/PATTclapotis.html


KAL Thread

http://www.craftster.org/forum/index.php?topic=25312.0

***************************************************
Here's a link if anyone needs help knitting or purling in the front and back of the stitch:

http://www.knittinghelp.com/knitting/basic_techniques/increase.php

Here's the link to Knitty's abbreviations guide (scroll down):

http://knitty.com/ISSUEwinter04/patterns.html

****************************************************

Yarn:

What kind, what weight, what length, what fiber, what dimensions acquired All this is discussed in the forum, but boiled down to a few practical tips for the new clapper:

Smoother yarns will let go of the dropped stitches with the least amount of work on your part.  Fuzzy/toothy yarns tend to be a bear to drop.

Better to buy too much than too little.

For a lacier look, use larger needles.

If you use lace weight yarn, you will probably want to work with two strands at once.

Craftster Forum Yarn Favorites:
   Caron Simply Soft Shadows (often abbreviated SS)
   Patons SWS (A soy & wool blend)
   South West Trading Co. Bamboo yarn
   Silk blends & bamboo blends
                                                                                                                 

A video of Knit Knit Through Back Loop (Ktbl) can be found by going to the knittinghelp link below and scrolling down to "Bar Increase"

http://www.knittinghelp.com/videos/increases
                                                                                                                 

"I'm starting Clapotis.  Row 1, I get.

Row 2... I have two stitches on my needle.  Row 2 wants me to play with 3, if I'm reading it correctly.  There's no instruction to m1, so I am VERY confused.  Any insight?"


pfb means purl in the front and back of the stitch, so there is an increase. At the end of Row 1 you should have 3 stitches on the needle.
 
For a bit of a how-to go to:
http://www.knittinghelp.com/videos/increases
                                                               Scroll down to "Bar Increase". It shows the knit-stitch version, but will give you the idea.

Basically, you make your usual purl, but do not slide the stitch off the left needle. Instead, immediately make another purl using the backside of the same loop.
                                                                                                                 

"3 times Ive re-started this thing! whhhyyy is it kicking my bum?! I think it's the repeating of the k1,ktb,k3 that's killing me."

Just remember that you ktbl one stitch before the marker and two stitches after.  That helped me a lot--it was driving me nuts before I figured that one out!

                                                                                                                 

SSK-

It's important to not over think it.

Keep your yarn in back like you would when you're knitting like normal.

Put right needle into left needle like you would to knit the stitch, but don't wrap the yarn around the needle or anything.  Just transfer that first stitch to the right needle.

Do the same for the second stitch.

Now take the left needle and put it in BOTH stitches on your right needle that you just transferred over.  It should be in front of your right needle.  

Wrap the yarn over your right needle, and pull it through the two stitches.

                                                                                                                 

"Throughout the whole pattern it says Sl for slip stitch, and in the knitting abbreviations thing, that says that it means to slip knitwise, so you slip as if to knit for the whole pattern, even on purl rows?"

In my many years of knitting, I have always slipped as if to knit if I am on the knit side and to purl if I am on the purl side.

                                                                                                                 

Section 3 (Straight Rows) Row 8 -- Trouble grasping this concept? You are not alone!

Row 8: P1, remove marker, drop next st, let it drop down several rows, pick up top bar with left needle to form a new st (make sure this st isn't twisted), k this and foll st tbl, k3, k tbl, [k1, k tbl, k3, k tbl] to last marker, k1, k tbl, kfb.

1) What Top Bar??

"What bar are they talking about for me to try and pick up and make a stitch from? im so confused?"

Think of a stitch as a U.

A section of stitches is UUUUU
                                 UUUUU
                                 UUUUU

When you "drop" a stitch, what you are really doing is unwrapping it from the stitch below.
 UUUUU  becomes   UU__UU
 UUUUU                  UUUUU
 UUUUU                  UUUUU      

Once several stitches drop, you get  UU___UU
                                                     UU___UU
                                                     UU___UU
The straight line of yarn is your "bar" to pick up...
  

2) What in the world does Foll st tbl mean???

Knit the following stitch through the back loop.  
So, do the increase by picking up the top bar after you drop the stitch, knit that stitch and the one following through the back loop (each separately). Then continue on in pattern.

3) Do I pick up & knit the bar 'flat', so to speak, or give it a turn/twist to form a loop before I k it?

It didn't seem to make a difference. Twist the picked up bar to tighten it up; pick it up flat to keep things loose.

                                                                                                                 

RE: Holes that appear along the edge starting at Row 2 Section 2 and continue to appear at regular intervals

The holes are part of the pattern. They are the ends of the rows you will be dropping think of them as cul-de-sacs for the running drops.

Once the stitches are dropped, the holes melt away.

                                                                                                                 
If you lose your place:

"I got hot and heavy one knitting my first Clapotis....then got burnt out. I stopped half way through it. My question is how do I tell where I am in the pattern? (I am in section 3 I know that for a fact.)"

Since you know your section, all you need to do is count the number of stitches you have before your first k tbl and match that up with the row in the pattern.

So, for example, if you count 3 stitches before the first tbl, then you are on Row 2 (P1 + k2 = 3) if you have 5 stitches, you are Row 10 (P1 + k4 = 5).

                                                                                                                       


"I am not seeing any of the twisted dropped stitches AT ALL."

You do have to knit for quite a little bit before you get to do any stitch dropping.
Section 1 (Set Up Rows) and Section 2 (Increase Rows) don't have any dropping yet, and in Section 3 (The Straight Rows) you still don't get to drop one until Row 8.

Until you get to section three, you will be looking at a solid triangle of stockinet.

                                                                                                                 

"Is anybody elses clapotis curling?"

It is basically a big block of stockinet, so that is pretty normal.  Give it a good blocking when you finish, and you should be a-ok.

(Many knitters prefer the gentle curling when it is done, and do not block it at all.)

[A Craftster] did some [crocheted] edging last night, simple sc along the bottom side. It has almost stopped it from curling up in the one corner but it lets it curl some if needed.

                                                                                                                 

To block or not to block?

The designer was going for a rippled/undulating -- the name translates to ripples which is what the dropped stitches look like. She recommends not blocking.

'I hand washed them and then hung them on a towel rack to dry. I think it worked ok, except the edges might need some extra blocking or something.'

'I would definitely not throw it in the washer & dryer with that much [75%] wool - unless of course it is "super-wash" treated wool.'

'When I blocked it, it grew quite a bit.'

'I blocked mine, and it did lose a lot of the ripple effect'

                                                                                                                 

RE: Do you really need to use all those stitch markers??

NOPE!
I am now doing the purl stitches for the drop stitches -- this way I am only using stitch markers for the first row after they are introduced.  Hooray for freedom from stitch markers!
The stitch that gets dropped is the K1 between the 2 Ktbls Purl that K1 and no markers are necessary!

SO Row 2 in Section 2 would read:
Row 2: Sl1, k1, ktbl, [p1,ktbl,k3,ktbl] to last marker, p1, ktbl, kfb.
___________________ ___________________ ______________


Easy way to think of altering the size/shape:
Section 2 decides how wide your clappy will be.
Section 3 decides how long.


For a narrower version, do less repeats in section 2, the increase rows.  For wider, do more.

For a shorter one, do less repeats in section 3, the straight rows. For longer

NB: Keep in mind that altering the repeats in section 2 will affect your overall yarn requirements more than changes in section 3!
The width set by section 2 determines how much yarn you use to get across every single straight row of section 3.

This information is also useful as you use yarns of different gauges; for example, if you are using a thinner thread with a smaller gauge, you will need to do more repeats to get it as wide & long as a normal clapotis.

                                                                                                                 

RE: How to make sure you wont run out of yarn before you are finished.

You'll need as much for the decrease rows as you did for the increase ones. So if you used up 1 1/2 balls before starting the straight rows, set aside 1 1/2 balls for the decrease section at the end. Everything else can be used for the middle.

___________________ ___________________ ___________________ __________


« Last Edit: September 06, 2009 11:25:10 AM by PimpernelSmith » THIS ROCKS   Logged

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« Reply #1 on: August 12, 2007 08:53:54 PM »

Wow! Shocked Thanks!

*bookmarked on Craftster, saved to favorites, and put into craft list*
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« Reply #2 on: November 12, 2007 01:12:26 AM »

I'm not going to do one (why am I reading this anyway? good question) but how about collecting some pics of them finished?
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« Reply #3 on: November 12, 2007 03:19:54 AM »

my bet says if you searched on clapotis, you could see the pictures that have been posted   Wink
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« Reply #4 on: November 13, 2007 01:15:22 AM »

Thank you!  I've been wanting to make this, but dreading asking the question of how to make it narrower.  And there it is.  You ROCK!
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colorlessblue
« Reply #5 on: November 13, 2007 05:19:56 AM »

is it just me? the links to the stitchguide don't work for me, i get "page not found" in annie's attic. and the pics of knit in front loop and back loop don't appear either...
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soozeq
« Reply #6 on: November 13, 2007 08:08:35 AM »

For a video that shows knit in front and back, go to knittinghelp.com. In the increases section go down to Bar inc, which is another name for it.
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sue
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« Reply #7 on: November 18, 2007 09:47:08 AM »


Okay, I think I replaced those links in a way that make sense, but tell me if I'm wrong.

Any suggestions as to how I can make this thread easy to find? I'd like to be able to tie it onto the Clapotis thread like a caboose, but -- ? Since it's just data, and not an active conversation thread, it cycles down out of site of the clapotis thread really fast...
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« Reply #8 on: November 18, 2007 09:51:28 AM »

perhaps in with the tutorials?


Okay, I think I replaced those links in a way that make sense, but tell me if I'm wrong.

Any suggestions as to how I can make this thread easy to find? I'd like to be able to tie it onto the Clapotis thread like a caboose, but -- ? Since it's just data, and not an active conversation thread, it cycles down out of site of the clapotis thread really fast...
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« Reply #9 on: November 18, 2007 10:51:42 PM »

If you know someone who posts in the thread often, ask them to put in in their signature in bright coloured caps?
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« Reply #10 on: February 24, 2008 12:27:39 AM »

or you can ask the original starter of the clapotis knit along to add this to the first post, cuz that's where i looked when I wanted to find this in the first place after i originally found it.  but i just used the search function to find it again.
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« Reply #11 on: July 05, 2008 04:30:39 PM »

After 3 days of reading ravelry, knittinghelp, everyones blog that came up with clapotis in search, knitty and so on and on. I finally found something helpful. I am so grateful for the clear precise help. I read so many contradictions and so many just ignore it , just cut it , just fudge it. I think I may be able to do this before losing all my nerve endings and brain cells.
Questions ( because apparently I just dont "get things" easily)

I hear just purl the knit stitches that are dropped and no markers needed, then I hear only a couple markers, etc. Am I using markers on this pattern or zero , zilch, nada markers?  The only problem with this answer is until I get really going to show a pattern I really dont know which are the dropped stitches so how would I know which ones I am switching?
I found a spreadsheet called sans marker with a twist but found too many mistakes to make any progress. I have started this, gotten to section 2 and struggled and ripped over and over and over again, my skein is worn out.
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soozeq
« Reply #12 on: July 05, 2008 06:35:27 PM »

It may be a good idea to use markers for the first few rows until you get an idea how the pattern goes. Or you can purl the dropped sts if you wish. All the posts you've read are about what works for each individual. I neither purled nor used markers because I can read my knitting and knew which sts were to be twisted and which became the drop sts. I had a few mistakes the first couple I made that I had to back up and redo because I twisted the wrong sts. Now I could probably do one in my sleep.

Just do what seems to work for you, follow the pattern st by st and after you've done one repeat of the increase section, you'll see the stitch pattern taking shape and you should be able to figure out when to do what stitch.
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« Reply #13 on: July 07, 2008 12:03:05 PM »

Question:

I got hot and heavy one knitting my first Clapotis....then got burnt out. I stopped half way through it. My question is how do I tell where I am in the pattern? (I am in section 3 I know that for a fact.)

Help! I want to finish this thing! lol
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« Reply #14 on: July 07, 2008 07:25:17 PM »

Question:

I got hot and heavy one knitting my first Clapotis....then got burnt out. I stopped half way through it. My question is how do I tell where I am in the pattern? (I am in section 3 I know that for a fact.)


Since you know your section, all you need to do is count the number of stitches you have before your first k tbl and match that up with the row in the pattern.

So, for example, if you count 3 stitches before the first tbl, then you are on Row 2 (P1 + k2 = 3)
if you have 5 stitches, you are Row 10 (P1 + k4 = 5).

Does that make sense?  Undecided  Smiley

(If it does, I'll incorporate it into the original post....)
« Last Edit: June 14, 2009 10:18:14 AM by PimpernelSmith » THIS ROCKS   Logged

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cathieb
« Reply #15 on: February 21, 2009 01:49:00 AM »

Thank you for this, I needed a broken down version for the clappy I started a couple of weeks back...
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PimpernelSmith
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« Reply #16 on: December 21, 2012 07:17:40 PM »

Hello again,

Just the bi-annual check-in to ask:  Anyone have new tips I should add?   

(yeah, i know it's weird to visit an old post this way, but the Views number keeps going up, so I figure this is the one post I've done that may actually Be HELPFUL -- it's very exciting to me!)
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« Reply #17 on: June 17, 2013 11:14:31 PM »

In mid-2013 it,s still helpful! Thanks :-)
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« Reply #18 on: June 20, 2013 09:37:51 AM »

In mid-2013 it,s still helpful! Thanks :-)

Fantastic to hear! Thanks!!  Cheesy
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