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Topic: My first ever chain maille attempt  (Read 2001 times)
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maillerock
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« Reply #10 on: July 19, 2007 04:18:35 PM »

Wonderful! Can imagine that it took you quite some time but you must be SO PROUD of  yourself.
I agree that the jump ring opener ring makes a world of difference, and it was inexpensive enough to be useful to those who have only the occasional use for it.
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Hawkwolf
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« Reply #11 on: July 21, 2007 06:29:34 PM »

Hey!

Not bad, not bad at all! I likes it!

One thing I did notice, and please don't take this badly....I know it's your first time.....you really want to watch your closures. I've never actually used the jump ring closer (my tools of choice are needlenose pliers), so I don't know if it would be harder or not to do it with those, but when you close your rings, you want to go past the edge of your ring while pushing inward slightly. Then when you bring it back to where the ends of the ring are flush, you have a bit of pressure holding the ring closed. It works great for me, but I don't exactly know how to explain it well... Cheesy

Anyway, the point is that if you have gaps in your closures, the ring will actually be weaker and not stay closed as well, not to mention you feel it when you wear your piece. And pinching sucks! Tongue You'll get better as you go along, practice makes perfect! (At least I hope so, 'cause I'm still practicing!!)

Thanks for posting,
Great work!
Tadd (AKA Hawkwolf)
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Onyxnox
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« Reply #12 on: July 22, 2007 06:38:25 AM »

Thanks for the advice.  I am finding that as I go along, that I am getting them more flush doing as you say.  I'm not consistent yet - but am getting there.  So far, I am liking the ring closer - I think I am more consistent with it than with two pliers.  Partly because I think it puts less pressure on my fingers.  Thanks to years of seed beading and crochet (and the years of typing, taking blood, and putting in needles) I suspect I am developing a bit of arthritis in a few of my finger joints  Cry

It is complicating things right now that I am using steroid drops and a thick drug for my eye from an inflammation I developed - it's screwing up my depth perception and making things just blurry enough in one eye that I can't see the join precisely.  Grrrrrr.  Hopefully that will be over in a week or so!

Thanks again also for the links you posted in my other post in discussions - I have found some weaves and patterns that have really excited me!

Could I trouble you for a wee bit more advice?  Is there a site anywhere that has a chart or calculation for figuring out ring sizes?  Every store and every site I have gone to seem to use different measurements for the rings - total width across, inside diameter and outside diameter, etc.

Also, can you recommend an epoxy glue for gluing a cabuchon into a chained frame?
« Last Edit: July 22, 2007 06:43:46 AM by Onyxnox » THIS ROCKS   Logged

tatamata
« Reply #13 on: July 22, 2007 06:50:22 AM »

Great work. Hard work, too.
I can't imagine how much patience you have.  Shocked
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jkayc6
« Reply #14 on: July 22, 2007 10:44:47 AM »

Totally gorgeous! I think adding a gem is a great idea too!
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Hawkwolf
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« Reply #15 on: July 22, 2007 02:14:35 PM »

Well, it might require a bit of math, but most every weave needs a certain Aspect Ratio of the rings to work correctly. This AR is kind of a universal thing that works no matter if you use metric, imperial measurement, AWG, or SWG. AR is the calculation of the inside diameter of the ring, in relation to the gauge of wire used. Pretty much it's how many rings you can fit comfortably through another ring, without the weave being too tight where it wouldn't work.

Zlosk's AR Tables

If you're buying rings premade, DON'T buy those prepackaged jumprings for hanging pendants and stuff at the hobby stores, to do maille!! Trust me, you're getting raped. For the price you pay for that little package of 100 or 1000 rings, you could probably get a half pound of good rings from one of the maille sites online. Even with shipping! Cheesy

For my cabochons,  I use the two part Devcon 5 minute epoxy. I like it because you can dollop out how much you like, mix it, put it where you need to, and it sets up quick so I don't have to worry about anything moving around. I found it at wal mart in the tools and paint.

A lot of people like E-6000 too, but I've never tried it yet.

Have fun!
Tadd (AKA Hawkwolf)
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bagoje
« Reply #16 on: July 24, 2007 01:11:41 PM »

just beautiful! i don't have the steady hands  for chainmaille. i think a garnet would look lovely.
teresa
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funkyjunkdesigns
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« Reply #17 on: July 26, 2007 05:57:38 PM »

excellent first attempt!

I echo Hawkwolf...the closures should be seamless.  Done correctly, you won't see the cut.

I teach chainmaille (among other metalsmithing), and because I am addicted to Japanese weaves, my students start with them.  But they all use 2 pliers, and the pliers never leave their hands.  We practice and practice with them...they pick up the rings, open and close them, and again, the pliers never leave their hands.

If your hands hurt, it's because you're gripping the pliers too tightly and likley too far down the handles.  I have neuromuscular autoimmune disease that causes my muscles to to weaken very, very quickly, and not recover quickly.  But doing maille, and maybe because I've done it for so long and again, without putting the pliers down, doesn't tire them out as much as I thought it would.


Oh, and as for gluing a cab into a maille frame...please don't.  It destroys the integrity of chainmaille.  It would be like using glue or tape in origami...part of the "thing" that makes chain maille and origami what they are...no glue, no solder, etc.

Lastly, determining aspect ratio is simple:

AR= ID/WD...so if you have 18g wire and a 5mm inner diameter...your AR is:


What if I know the AR for a weave, and I like working in 16g wire which is what I have?

AR x new wire diameter = new ring ID

Or, I have a mandrel that is 6mm and the AR is 4, I can determine what size wire to use.
new ring ID / AR = new wire diameter

Make certain that you know what measuring system (AWG or SWG) is being used for the wire, because it makes a difference.

Maille on!!

Lisa

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Hawkwolf
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« Reply #18 on: July 26, 2007 10:01:01 PM »

Great advice!

I must respectfully disagree on one point, my dear Funkyjunk:

Glue will not destroy the integrity of a maille design. By your definition, that would be like saying there should be no stones, or beads, or clasps attached, but only maille. There is not a (good) way of framing a cab in hp3 or 4n1 that would be tight enough to trust it to pressure alone. Other weaves, yes, but not these two. It is only a limited application, and the glue involved is minimal and does not take away anything from the design. In fact, it is never even seen unless you turn the pendant over. Or maybe I'm not a 'purist'!  Grin

I do agree on all the other points you have made, and you have my deep respect as an artist and designer. I only responded to this message on the group to defend a percieved untruth, as I feel I've done nothing but help to  add another layer to the mailler's design toolkit. I ask only that you please not take this missive as an attack to you or your character, as I feel you did not personally mean anything against me, only the process I used.

Thanks for your time, and I hope you understand my position! Cheesy
Tadd (AKA Hawkwolf)
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