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Topic: Basic Male Origami Doll Tutorial *WARNING- 150+ IMAGES!*  (Read 16505 times)
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Android raptor
« on: June 19, 2007 10:58:53 PM »

Finally, after 4 years of making dolls I do a tutorial! Dial-up users should probably go for a long walk while this loads though, considering there are over 150 images (if I counted correctly)! Anyway, this is a tutorial for a basic male origami doll plus a basic outfit (t-shirt, pants, and Converse-ish shoes). I did this because my friend's little sister wanted another origami doll for her birthday (she already got one on Christmas), so I figured I might as well do a tutorial while making it! Thanks go to Maarten Van Gelder for basically designing the human model (though I do a variation to make the dolls), his model can be found here:http://dev.origami.com/images_pdf/wheelchair_new.pdf. Thanks also go the Jeremy Shafer, for designing the basic pants that I use (though I have to cut them to fit the doll), as well as whoever designed the basic shirt (found it in an origami calender). Now, without further adue, on to the tutorial!



WHAT YOU WILL NEED:
-Colored Pencils (colors for hair, skin, eyes, blush if you wish, shoes, and shoe soles)
-Inking pen (I use Sakura Micron)
-Mechanical Pencil
-Glue (I use quick dry tacky glue, but regular tacky or Elmer's works fine)
-Colored paper for pants/shirt (I use pre-cut origami paper that is white on one side and colored on the other)
-Tape
-Scissors
-One sheet of letter/printer paper
-A knowledge of at least intermediate origami! *IMPORTANT*


1. Take the printer paper and fold it in half "hotdog" style.


2. Unfold the paper and fold the corners to the center fold you just made.


3. Cut off the folded end (should look like a triangle with flaps, and should be a rectangle when unfolded). Don't throw away any of the paper, it will be used later!


4. Cut the bit you just cut off in half (so when unfolded you have two squares).


5. Set aside one of the squares for now and pick up the other.


6. Fold a bird base from the square you did not set aside (if you don't know how to make a bird base, you probably shouldn't be doing this tutorial as it only gets harder from here!).


7. Fold the top front point down.


8. Turn the model over.


9. Valley fold the bottom points so they line up and make a straight line at the top. Crease well.


10. Unfold the points and inside reverse fold them.


11. Valley fold the bottom edge of the points to meet the top edge (top layer only).


12. Squash fold along the crease you made in the last step, pulling the side edge to meet the center.


13. Step 12 Finished. Repeat 11 on the other side.


13. Both sides squashed.


14. Flip the model over.


15. Fold the bottom point as if you are making a kite base while squashing and thinning the side point.


16. Repeat on the other side.


17. Flip the model over and rotate so the tall thin point is facing the top.


18. Valley fold the top point down as far as it will comfortably go.


19. Fold the top point back up about a centimeter, thus making a pleat.


20. Flip the model over.


21. Pull out the layer in the middle as far as it will comfortably go.


22. Repeat on the other side.


23. Fold in a little bit of the edge, thinning the head.


24. Repeat on the other side.


25. Turn the model over.


26. Using your thumbnail, push in a small corner to round out the head.


27. Step 26 completed.


28. Repeat on the other side.


29. Flip the model over and fold to top point to meet the bottom of the head.


30. Further round out the head by folding the top corners in a bit.


31. Turn the model over. This will be the front, where the face goes!


32. Using the mechanical pencil, draw a light line across the face about 1/3 the way down. This is where I mark to start the eyes.


33. Draw on the eyes and other facial features using the mechanical pencil.


34. Take what remains of the paper you cut the two squares from and lay the doll on it.


35. Using the mechanical pencil, trace the head on this paper roughly 3-5 inches from the edge. This will be used to make the bangs or front  part of the hair.


36. Once you have traced the head, move the doll down an inch or two and trace the head again. This will be used to make the back part of the hair.


37. Remove the doll from the paper. This is what the tracings should look like.


38. On the top tracing, draw the bangs or front part of the hair. It can be any style you wish, though if you have trouble try to lay the doll on top or next to the hair and try to see how it looks.


39. On the bottom tracing, draw the back part of the hair. Again, it can be whatever style you want, just keep in mind that not much will show when looking at the doll's face. It's a must that you draw a little bit over the traced edge to give the hair volume. If you have trouble, do the same thing as the bangs and lay the doll on top of the hair to see how it might look.


40. When you're happy with the hair and face, ink it with your inking pen.


41. Turn the paper you drew the hair on over.


42. Hold the paper up to a window, or if you have one, a light box, and  trace the outline of the hair on this side with the inking pen.


43. Color in the hair using colored pencils. I don't usually shade (I'm horrible at it), but if you can if you want to. You don't have to color in the lines as you will be cutting the hair out later.


44. Flip the hair paper over and if you haven't already, erase the pencil marks.


45. Color in this side as well.


46. Return to the main part of the doll again and set aside the hair paper for now.


47. Using colored pencils, color in the eyes, blush spots (if you drew them), and any other facial features you want (makeup, etc).


48. Now here's where  it gets a bit weird. Carefully unfold the top part of the doll completely. The only inked facial feature on this side should be the nose. Color around it using the colored pencil you want your doll's skin to be.


49. Flip the paper over. You should see the doll's eyes near the bottom on the sides. Color in the whole square using the same skin tone colored pencil.


50. Refold the doll back to step 47. It will look the same, except the skin should now be colored.


51. Set aside the part you've been working on (the top half of the doll) and grab the second square you cut. This square will be used to fold the legs.


52. Using the skin tone colored pencil you've been using, color in one side of the square.


53. Once your done coloring, fold a kite base from the square with the colored side up. Crease well.


54. Unfold this kite base. The color should still be up.


55. Without rotating or turning the paper, fold a kite base from the top point. Crease well.


56. Unfold. The creases should look like this.


57. Turn the paper over so the white side now faces you.


58. With the white side on top, fold the edge to meet the line formed from folding the kite bases.


59. Repeat this fold four times. This is what the creases should look like.


60. With the white side still out, fold the paper in half diagonally. Crease well.


61. Unfold, though still make sure the white side is facing you. Begin to collapse along the existing creases.


62. The collapse in process.


63. The finished collapse.


64. Repeat on the other side.


65. Rotate the model so the top points up.


66. From behind, pull the top point down like a hinge. The model should be white on the outside.


67. Put your fingers into the left pocket and squash everything, including the center.


68. The squash almost done.


69. The squash complete. The bottom of the legs should now appear colored.


70. Now return to the top half of the doll.


71. Open out the flaps on the chest of the doll.


72. Fold the bottom point up like a hinge.


73. Valley fold the side in like so.


74. Repeat on the other side.


75. Fold the point down again as far as it will comfortably go.


76. A view of the model from the side. Fold the flaps in to thin the waist.

« Last Edit: June 19, 2007 11:04:05 PM by Android raptor » THIS ROCKS   Logged
Android raptor
« Reply #1 on: June 19, 2007 11:05:29 PM »


77. This should be the result.


78. Repeat on the other side and turn over. The model should look like this.


79. Lay the top half of the body on the bottom half like so. Make sure the bottom point of the top half lines up with the crease line in the middle of the bottom half.


80. Fold the flap on the bottom half to the halfway point. It's good if you have to fold some of the top half's point to do this, that means for a good strong model!


81. Fold up the flap again, helping to lock the model.


82. Turn the model over.


83. Fold up the flap to make a crease.


84. Unfold the crease you just made and fold the bottom of the flap to meet it.


85. Fold it up once more, like you did on the front side.


86. Valley fold a small bit of the corners out.


87. Turn the model over and repeat on the front.


88. Mountain fold the side flaps inwards to thin the legs.


89. Step 88 completed on all side flaps.


90. Shape the waist by mountain folding excess paper into the model.


91. Take out the paper with the hair drawn on it.


92. Carefully cut out both pieces of hair.


93. Put some glue on the front of the back hair piece.


94. Attach the hair to the back of the doll's head.


95. Put some glue on the bangs and attach them to the front of the head.


96. There should be a pocket where the two halves of the doll are connected. Squeeze a drop or two of glue into the pocket to prevent the doll from ripping in half.


97. Let the doll dry.


98. When the doll is dry, valley fold a small bit of the leg forward. This will become a foot.


99. Repeat on the other leg.


100. Mountain fold the leg in half to form the knee.


101. Repeat on the other leg.


102. Fold a bit of the arm up and spread-squash. This will be a hand.


103. Fold the hand down.


104. Repeat on the other arm.


105. Valley fold halfway between the hand and the body. This will become the elbow.

106. 106. Valley fold the arm down close to the body. This will become the shoulder joint.


107. Repeat on the other arm. The arms (and doll body) complete. Now for some clothes.


108. Take the paper you cut the hair from (or a paper of the color you want the shirt to be) and place the doll to about a point where the edge would go to the middle of his body.


109. Fold the corner down to make a square.


110. Cut out the square.


111. Fold the square in half book style.


112. Unfold and fold the edges to meet the center crease you just made.


113. Fold the bottom up at the 1/4 mark.


114. Pull out the corner, such as when making a pinwheel or a jumping frog's legs.


115. Repeat on the other corner.


116. Cut off a small sliver at the bottom. This will be so the doll can stick his head through.


117. Cut the strip in the back only. This will make is so the shirt comes off easily.


118. Put the shirt on the doll!


119. The view from the back.


120. Now take the colored paper that you're going to use for the pants (origami paper with the white side up here) and place the doll so the edge appears to go slightly beyond the middle of the doll.


121. Fold the corner down to make a square.


122. Cut a square from the colored paper.


123. Open out the pants square. If you're using origami paper, the white side should be top.


124. Place the doll in the middle of the paper.


125. Fold the edge over, but leave some space at the bottom.


126. Fold the other edge over and tuck it underneath the first. Again, leave some space at the bottom.


127. Take the doll out of the pants and flatten the creases.


128. If using duo-colored paper, fold a small bit of the upper tip out to form a button.


129. Cut the pants to about where the gap at the bottom ends.


130. Fold the small white edges along the line of the paper. This will make sure no white shows if you are using duo paper.


131. Tape the legs around to lock them.


132. Both legs taped.


133. Tear of a bit more tape and put it on top and then inside the top of the pants.


134. The pants are taped up.


135. Slide the pants onto the doll. It helps to spread his legs a bit with your thumb while sliding them on.


136. The doll with pants on. The next steps are in case the legs of the pants go past the doll's feet.


137. Fold the feet up along the pre-established crease, including the pants in the crease.


138. Take the pants off the doll but don't undo the new crease in them.


139. Cut off along the feet crease.


140. The pants should now fit the doll. Now for some shoes!


141. Outline the doll's foot with the mechanical pencil on the remaining bit of paper that the hair was cut from.


142. This is what it should look like. Repeat with the other foot.


143. Draw around the foot outlines to make them sole shaped.


144. Ink the soles and erase the pencil marks.


145. Draw a pattern for the bottom of the sole if you wish. Repeat on the other sole.


146. Color in the soles with colored pencils.


147. Carefully cut out the soles.


148. Flip the soles over and trace them in pencil on the paper they were cut from. This will make the tops of the shoes.


149. The outlines of the soles.


150. Try to draw a pattern similar to this one along the traced lines and ink it.


151. Color in the shoe tops.


152. Cut out the shoe tops and match them with their soles.


153. Attach the soles to the tops with tape, being careful to tape everywhere except the open area of the shoe where the doll's foot will be placed.


154. A shoe being taped. It helps to put a pencil point up the shoe to keep it steady.


155. The completed shoes. Put all the clothes on the doll and...


156. You have completed the male doll! Great work!
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« Reply #2 on: June 19, 2007 11:06:32 PM »

Shocked That was A LOT of pictures! Shocked

I appreciate your time and effort for taking them though. Now I can make my own! Cheesy
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« Reply #3 on: June 20, 2007 04:06:58 AM »

oh wow! a lot of effort Cheesy
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« Reply #4 on: June 22, 2007 04:58:39 AM »

Oh my gosh, that must have taken a lot! I just read all of that. Really thorough and really great. I don't have that much patience unfortunately.
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« Reply #5 on: June 26, 2007 09:17:04 PM »

 :owow. Your work is amazing! Shocked That must have taken ALOT of time! If you scroll thru the pictures reaallly fast, its like watching a little stop motion film! You also draw great! The eyes are perfect!
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Android raptor
« Reply #6 on: June 27, 2007 01:43:30 AM »

:owow. Your work is amazing! Shocked That must have taken ALOT of time! If you scroll thru the pictures reaallly fast, its like watching a little stop motion film! You also draw great! The eyes are perfect!
Awww, thanks!

Now, is anyone going to try to make one of their own?
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« Reply #7 on: June 27, 2007 02:08:00 PM »

What a cool doll and amazing tutorial! That's what Craftster's all about! You rock!
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« Reply #8 on: June 27, 2007 04:46:41 PM »

I'm never one to pass up a challenge...
That and my husband is active duty military - gone for 4 months of a 1 year tour next door to Siberia (Aleutian Islands). We have 2 boys and I could see a pair of these quite easily as the AB boys (Oldest is Andrew - youngest is Benjamin = AB boys)
Selkie
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« Reply #9 on: June 27, 2007 09:23:30 PM »

I'm never one to pass up a challenge...
That and my husband is active duty military - gone for 4 months of a 1 year tour next door to Siberia (Aleutian Islands). We have 2 boys and I could see a pair of these quite easily as the AB boys (Oldest is Andrew - youngest is Benjamin = AB boys)
Selkie

If you make one please share! Though I do recommend practicing origami on spare paper first, so you get the folds down (at the very least you have to be able to fold a crane decently). I made them for some kids I know last Christmas (a boy and his sister. Boy got a boy doll, girl got a girl doll) and they both loved them! So even boys might want to play with them, especially since it's something handmade (and  I've heard it can be a good thing for boys to play with dolls, because it makes them less prone to violence later on. At the very least I think it's better then letting them play with realistic toy guns). Good luck!
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