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Topic: pattern for men's jacket??  (Read 1812 times)
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thixle
« on: January 17, 2004 11:17:13 PM »

My bf is wanting a fitted jacket, with a "chinese" collar. I have been looking on the net for a pattern and suprisingly, have found nothing! I checked all the major pattern companies, and was really sad to find that there are so few men's patterns.  Cry Are they supposed to go nude?

So here is the deal-- if I cannot find a man pattern, would it be ok to use a female jacket pattern? He is very tall and slim (6'3" and 145 lbs). I think I could use a female pattern, if I take out the front darts.

Any experienced clothing makers with ideas?
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stitchgrrl
« Reply #1 on: January 20, 2004 08:42:36 AM »

If you even have a basic pattern, it's easy to modify it so that it'll fit him.  
Take his measurements all over- chest, shoulder to shoulder, neck to where you want the hem to lie, etc.  Everywhere a tape measure will go, measure it.
Lay your pattern out and tape some more paper underneath the edges.  Measure the pattern and add where needed until it looks like him, remembering to account for the seam allowance.
Using the right tools (hip curves and shoulder curves) will help you make the lines properly.  The shoulder seam curve is the one you have to be especially careful of.  
Make sure you make these adjustments to all the pieces of the pattern, then double triple and quadruple check to make sure that the pieces align properly with each other.
You can leave out the darts easily enough, but some men's jackets do have darts- it'll depend on his build, but don't think it too girly for him.
Hopefully these help you.  And I think the collar you're looking for is Mandarin or Nehru.
Good luck.
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thixle
« Reply #2 on: January 20, 2004 03:00:36 PM »

Using the right tools (hip curves and shoulder curves) will help you make the lines properly.  The shoulder seam curve is the one you have to be especially careful of.  

So, is there like a french curve ruler-thing to do this?  I've never seen one... Hmm... must look at the sewing shop! Is there a name for it? The "ladies" at the fabric store always give me the evil eye and ask me if I'm sure  I picked out the right thread, etc  Roll Eyes because I don't know all the specific names.
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stitchgrrl
« Reply #3 on: January 21, 2004 01:09:43 PM »

I know what you mean!
But I KNOW the hip one is called a hip curve, but I can't remember what the shoulder one is called.  If they look at you funny, take pleasure in knowing that hip curve is the real name, even that's not what they call it.    Cheesy
I can't remember where I got mine, it was so long ago.  But I bet a fabric store would have them if they have any pattern making supplies at all.  
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