Serger/Overlock questions. Help!

[oldnewsbaby]

So, I recently bought the overlock/coverstitch of my dreams with some saved funds. I have used an industrial overlock before, but never a small personal machine, let alone one with many options...which is exactly what I bought. I am fluent in regular machine sewing, years of experience. So, it's not that I'm having problems with the actual garment construction using the overlock, it's more technical problems: <b>tension, cutting, etc</b>. I have a singer 5 thread machine (14T967DC).

So, I ask you craftster buddies, are any of you kickass at overlocking? I have a few questions now, and probably will have more later, so I am looking for a mentor type. I can in exchange help you with any of the following: embroidery, macrame, patternmaking, woodcarving, jewelrymaking, and a multitude of other stuff.

Here are some questions

1. How do you go about folding over fabric for a cover stitch so that the overlocked part holds in the edge of the fabric? is there an exact way to measure or is it mostly trial and error.

2. One of the tension spools seems to be WAY tighter than the others, and thread keeps snapping when i try to do different stitches. problem with the spool? crappy thread?

3. It seems like no matter what the actual non loop stitch part of the stitch is too loose...when you pull the two pieces sewed together you see little thread lines. tension?

any wisdom appreciated!
<3 tay

[bluwave06]

I'm not an expert but I have had the same problem as number 2 and 3. For #2, First make sure that the thread is threading right, because this could cause a problem like thread breaking.Also check for tangling of the thread, loosen the thread tension, make sure needle is inserted correctly.Or you might have to change to a new or different needle.
For 3, either tighten the needle tension or loosen the lower and sometimes the upper looper tensions.
These are the only two I know. I hope they will help.

[veri]

I have another question - about coverstitch (the usual kind you see on tshirts - the wide stitch with 2 needles and one looper). My left needlethread is constantly braking but ONLY when I sew over the serged seam (where fabric gets thicker since there are more layers). When I topstitch/hem the bottom of a T-shirt I have to sew all the way around and it's perfect on the front and back but almost every single time breaks at the sides, where the front and back are sewn/serged together and I have to coverstitch over a bit thicker part. I tried to pull the fabric gently to get it over that spot and it's only worse. If I don't help it it usually james there - though my stitchlength is long and I have feed dogs set to prevent stretching (I sew jersey). I also try to shift the seam so the folded edge of the seam is not on the top of the upper part (so that not all the layer are on top of each other) but the problem persists.

I have rethreaded the whole thing numerous times and I guess it is threaded fine since the stitch is formed just perfectly on the rest of the seam. I cleaned and oiled all the machine parts that need to be lubricated, I used new (never used before) ballpoint (for jersey) needles, my fabric is normal jersey, nothing very thick or problematic, normal Tshirt fabric...  If I change the needle tension the stitch is wonky on the normal part of the clothing so I guess that is not the answer...

I have Bernina 2500 overlocker which does coverstitch too. I use good quality polyester thread that I never had problem with otherwise. I move the therads to the back before I start coverstitching, I start at the middle and not at the very edge (where the seams are), I go very slowly over the sides and I also tried to go over only by hand whealing... Should I increase or decrease foot preasure maby? I haven't tried that yet...

Why I can't seem to get it right??? It really frustrates me so please please, somebody help me!