I think I added too much color into the clay. craftyteen
, as mansonette said, try a little less added clay color in your translucent.... it really takes very little to tint translucent clay. Also, some
regular clay colors have a certain amount of translucent in them already (that's not at all obvious unless viewing a thin sheet of it in front of a strong light, preferably in a dark closet)...those will work better than the more opaque colors (white
, btw, is the most opaque! because it contains titanium oxide).
You can also use other "clearer" materials to tint translucent clay with... for example, small amounts of artists' oil paints, or alcohol inks (by Pinata or Dahler-Rowney, both now at Michaels I think--for brown, mix red and green or 2 other complementary colors together). You can also use small amounts of acrylic paint but since acrylics contain water, you'll want to allow them to sit in the clay overnight before baking to avoid steam/trapped air which can cause bubbles.
I will try baking it longer. . . . I did use a pasta machine and did it on the thinnest it could go. . . .
All polymer clays do have to be thoroughly cured or they won't be as strong as they could be, or they could actually leach oily stuff onto porous surfaces later (...also an oven thermometer really needs to be used to make sure the oven used is actually at
the temp showing on its dial). The temperature for curing polymer clay is usually 275 for the Sculpeys and Premo, 275-300 for Kato Polyclay, and 265 for the FimoClassic and FimoSoft.
The thickness of the clay (at its thickest area) will determine how long
to bake. Generally, it's 15 min. per quarter-inch of thickness.
All clays can be baked longer though (and they will all be stronger) but the translucents (particularly Sculpey III's) will often darken somewhat (there are various ways to avoid that on my Baking pagehttp://www.glassattic.com/polymer/baking.htm
under the Darkening
Also, a brief bump up to 300 degrees has been shown to increase the clarity of translucent clays (Kato can go up to 325), but you'd have to check out your particular clay and situation.
(Other things which will increase the clarity of translucent clays are applying a clear glaze or sanding then electric-buffing, and some people feel that an "ice-water plunge" when the clay is still hot from the oven works too though the effect may or may not last.
And of course, the thinness of the clay is probably the most important.)
There's more info on all those things on the Translucents
page I mentioned before, as well as differences between brands of translucent, how to make the very thin sheets, etc.:http://www.glassattic.com/polymer/translucents-glow.htm
You might want to check out these categories there:
...Making Your Own "Tinted Translucents"
I will also try to run the mold through the machine, I never thought of that! I also forgot to put powder on the mold.
Many people just lay their sheet of conditioned clay over the texture sheet (mold) then roll over it firmly with some kind of roller by hand, but you can also do it in the pasta machine (sometimes that tends to sorta curl plastic texture sheets a bit tho', but doesn't affect their use later).
usually necessary for large sheets of clay impressed onto texture sheets (but not necessarily for other clay sizes). Lots of things can be used as releases though. For most clays, a spritz of water is great (but not for the Fimos because of some of the fillers they use). All clays will work well with a light brushing of cornstarch on the clay, but actual talc (which may not even be around now) won't as easily rinse off the clay later.
Other things that work are glycerin, metallic powders (if you want that effect), ArmorAll (but only if you don't want to add anything to the clay later because they won't stick), and other things.
There's more info on releases to use with polymer clay here if you want to check them out:http://www.glassattic.com/polymer/molds.htm
(click on Releases