A Crafts Community For Craft Ideas & DIY Projects - Craftster.org
Help | About | Contact | Press | Advertise | Terms | Site Map
Welcome, Guest.
Please login or register.
Random Tip: Curious if a project is for sale, or if someone wants to do a private swap with you?  Please Personal Message the member rather than posting on the thread.
Total Members: 299,171
Currently Running With Scissors:
538 Guests and 11 Users
Home Craftster Community Crafting Articles Craft Tutorials My Craftster Crafting Calendar City Guides Craft Shop


Pages: 1 ... 3 4 [5]  All
Jump to page:
  Show Images Only     Send this topic  |  Print  |  Bookmark  
Topic: Polymer clay hand mirrors [tutorial added to first post]  (Read 20140 times)
Tags for this thread: tutorial  Add new tag
Share the love... Pin it Submit to reddit add to Wists
1+
 
yamwam
« Reply #40 on: April 22, 2007 01:00:27 PM »

I love love love the honeycomb mirror!
THIS ROCKS   Logged

Loose pleats sink fleets

Wists
craftyteen
« Reply #41 on: April 23, 2007 07:55:43 PM »

Alright so, I got all the stuff and tried this tonight! It turned out awfully. I bought the texture sheets, but I'm not sure I'm using them right, because I can't seem to get the clay way down into the grooves and keep the pattern. Just practice maybe? Also, I think I mixed too much brown in with my transparent, as it completely covered up the teal color. How thin is the clay supposed to be? I'm not sure if mine was too thin! How long did you bake yours? I didn't really know how thick mine was so I just did 7ish minutes.

Sorry for so many questions!
THIS ROCKS   Logged
mansonette
« Reply #42 on: April 24, 2007 04:47:02 AM »

You need to bake it at least 15 minutes if not more.  15 minimum.

Also, make sure to dust the mold with baby powder so you can easily remove it later. 

About the mold, you have to work at it a little to get all of the clay down inside.  I run my sheet through the pasta roller on the largest setting once I think I've got it just to make sure.  Just makw sure you use the baby powder, or some kind of release.

You should bake your mirror longer and see if that makes the brown a little more transparent.  I don't know if you have a pasta roller, but I roll my clay out to a size 1...which is super super thin.  If it is too thick, it won't get too transparent.  Also, make sure to mix only very small amounts of other colors to tint it.  The more other clay, the less transparent it will be.

Hope this helps.

Hope this helps.
THIS ROCKS   Logged
craftyteen
« Reply #43 on: April 25, 2007 11:17:22 AM »

Thanks, I think I added too much color into the clay. I will try baking it longer. I did use a pasta machine and did it on the thinnest it could go. I will also try to run the mold through the machine, I never thought of that! I also forgot to put powder on the mold. Whoops!  Wink I will hopefully have some time to work on another one tonight! Thanks for your help. If I get one to turn out well I will definatly post pictures!
THIS ROCKS   Logged
Diane B.
Offline Offline

Posts: 5061
Joined: 01-May-2004

GlassAttic --polymer clay "encyclopedia"


View Profile WWW
« Reply #44 on: April 27, 2007 09:49:47 AM »

Quote
I think I added too much color into the clay.


craftyteen, as mansonette said, try a little less added clay color in your translucent.... it really takes very little to tint translucent clay.  Also, some regular clay colors have a certain amount of translucent in them already (that's not at all obvious unless viewing a thin sheet of it in front of a strong light, preferably in a dark closet)...those will work better than the more opaque colors (white, btw, is the most opaque! because it contains titanium oxide).

You can also use other "clearer" materials to tint translucent clay with... for example, small amounts of artists' oil paints, or alcohol inks (by Pinata or Dahler-Rowney, both now at Michaels I think--for brown, mix red and green or 2 other complementary colors together).  You can also use small amounts of acrylic paint but since acrylics contain water, you'll want to allow them to sit in the clay overnight before baking to avoid steam/trapped air which can cause bubbles.

Quote
I will try baking it longer. . .  . I did use a pasta machine and did it on the thinnest it could go. . . .

All polymer clays do have to be thoroughly cured or they won't be as strong as they could be, or they could actually leach oily stuff onto porous surfaces later (...also an oven thermometer really needs to be used to make sure the oven used is actually at the temp showing on its dial).  The temperature for curing polymer clay is usually 275 for the Sculpeys and Premo, 275-300 for Kato Polyclay, and 265 for the FimoClassic and FimoSoft.

The thickness of the clay (at its thickest area) will determine how long to bake.  Generally, it's 15 min. per quarter-inch of thickness. 
All clays can be baked longer though (and they will all be stronger) but the translucents (particularly Sculpey III's) will often darken somewhat (there are various ways to avoid that on my Baking page
http://www.glassattic.com/polymer/baking.htm
under the Darkening category). 
Also, a brief bump up to 300 degrees has been shown to increase the clarity of translucent clays (Kato can go up to 325), but you'd have to check out your particular clay and situation. 

(Other things which will increase the clarity of translucent clays are applying a clear glaze or sanding then electric-buffing, and some people feel that an "ice-water plunge" when the clay is still hot from the oven works too though the effect may or may not last. 
And of course, the thinness of the clay is probably the most important.)

There's more info on all those things on the Translucents page I mentioned before, as well as differences between brands of translucent, how to make the very thin sheets, etc.:
http://www.glassattic.com/polymer/translucents-glow.htm
You might want to check out these categories there:
...Clearest Results
...Thin Sheets
...Brands
...Making Your Own "Tinted Translucents"

Quote
I will also try to run the mold through the machine, I never thought of that! I also forgot to put powder on the mold.

Many people just lay their sheet of conditioned clay over the texture sheet (mold) then roll over it firmly with some kind of roller by hand, but you can also do it in the pasta machine (sometimes that tends to sorta curl plastic texture sheets a bit tho', but doesn't affect their use later).
 
Releases are usually necessary for large sheets of clay impressed onto texture sheets (but not necessarily for other clay sizes).  Lots of things can be used as releases though.  For most clays, a spritz of water is great (but not for the Fimos because of some of the fillers they use).  All clays will work well with a light brushing of cornstarch on the clay, but actual talc (which may not even be around now) won't as easily rinse off the clay later.
 
Other things that work are glycerin, metallic powders (if you want that effect), ArmorAll (but only if you don't want to add anything to the clay later because they won't stick), and other things.
There's more info on releases to use with polymer clay here if you want to check them out:
http://www.glassattic.com/polymer/molds.htm (click on Releases)


Have fun!

Diane B.
« Last Edit: April 27, 2007 04:22:11 PM by Diane B. » THIS ROCKS   Logged

POLYMER CLAY "ENCYCLOPEDIA" 
http://glassattic.com/polymer/contents.htm
few of my photos
http://s96.photobucket.com/albums/l163/DianeBB
(had to move them from YahooPhotos, so many now without captions)
Threads you might like:
Pages: 1 ... 3 4 [5]  All Jump to page:
  Send this topic  |  Print  |  Bookmark  
 
Jump to:  



FacebookTwitterPinterest
only results with images
include swap threads
advanced search



your ad could be here!

How-To Videos
Avatar Post Team - Episode 4 - The Nuts-n-Bolts
Avatar Post Team - Ep 2 - Performance Matters
Screenwriting Software
Technical Screenplay Format
How to Blur Faces in Videos
Latest Blog Articles
Handmade Gift Ideas: Exploding Needle Box
Handmade Gift Ideas: Japanese Shibori Dyeing
@Home This Weekend: Embellished Guest Towels

Comparison Shopping




Support Craftster
Become a
Friend of Craftster

Buy Craftster Swag
Buy Craft Supplies
Comparison Shopping

Craftster heartily thanks the following peeps...
Moderators

Follow Craftster...






Powered by MySQL Powered by PHP Powered by SMF 1.1.11 | SMF © 2006-2009, Simple Machines LLC
SimplePortal 2.3.5 © 2008-2012, SimplePortal
Valid XHTML 1.0! Valid CSS!

Copyright ©2003-2014, Craftster.org an Internet Brands company.