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Topic: Crosswise grain vs lengthwise for drape  (Read 619 times)
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pureeva
« on: March 29, 2007 04:16:52 PM »

Hi guys Cheesy I had a quick question about cutting which I have not been able to find the right answer to.

I've cut major pieces to go along the lengthwise or bias grain with most of my projects so far, therefore I'm pretty unfamiliar as to how cutting along the crosswise grain affects the drape of a garment. I'm currently planning a high waisted plaid pinafore with gathered skirt - the the plaid has strong black lines going through it and I'd like these to be vertical if possible, but they run perpendicular to the selvedge. How might this (generally) affect the way the skirt falls if I cut on the crosswise grain?  The fabric is silk dupioni.

Thanks for any insight you can give me Smiley
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hoxierice
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« Reply #1 on: March 29, 2007 05:50:41 PM »

Mostly the change from lengthwise grain to crosswise grain is slight. Some fabrics there is more difference, depending on the type of weave. My professor describes it as there is more "spring" when cutting on the cross grain. Take your fabric and pull on the straight grain, then pull on the cross grain, is there any difference in how tug? That is the difference in the cut. Not really helpful, but it's what I got!
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« Reply #2 on: March 30, 2007 02:13:54 AM »

Usually cutting on the cross will give a better drape, but if you don't want the plaid pattern to be diagonal then you'll have to cut it on the straight grain.
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pureeva
« Reply #3 on: March 30, 2007 10:55:58 AM »

Hmm.. I checked it out and it has a little give crosswise, but theres not a huge difference. I might try it this way anyway. Thank you both for the info! Smiley
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« Reply #4 on: March 30, 2007 11:45:00 AM »

If you're really worried, you could always try some light weight fusable interfacing.
I think with bold patterns you need to work around the pattern to arrive at what you want.  I guess before you hem it let it hang for a day to make sure it's all settled out before you finish it and wear it.
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