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Topic: Which is better for finishing seams?  (Read 565 times)
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Elphelba
« on: February 19, 2007 10:54:35 AM »

I'm doing a skirt that has 6 rectangular pieces, with triangular gussets (at least I think that's what they are called) inserted about halfway up the skirt (these go all the way down to the ground as do the rectangular pieces). What would be the best technique for finishing the seams? It's a light weight brocade with silk inserts. Would french seams be good for this progject, or should I just stick with using the overedge stitch (due to the nature of the gores and all that). I know this fabric frays A LOT. And  durability is a very big concern of mine.

Thanks,
Lisa
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« Reply #1 on: February 19, 2007 11:17:53 AM »

French seams are good for very lightweight fabrics - I'm guessing your brocade is a bit heavier.  If I were you, I would consider binding the seams - you could use bias strips of the silk insert fabric, or some other coordinating (or totally different, but lightweight) fabric, or use a product like Seams Great (a tricot strip available in rolls, usually in white, black, or beige, but if you hunt you can find it in a limited color range as well). Claire Schaeffer's _Fabric Sewing Guide_ has a large glossary of seam finishes; other basic sewing books (Readers Digest, etc) should also have instructions.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bound_seam
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dyno
« Reply #2 on: February 19, 2007 11:43:32 AM »

there's another discussion going on about seam finishes in general, it may offer some help: http://www.craftster.org/forum/index.php?topic=153158.0

I'm inclined to agree with ptarmic -- doing a french seam on a brocade could add a lot of unwanted bulk to the seams. I'd either overcast them (serge or zigzag) or case/bind them. you can then edgestitch the seams if needed to have the seams lie flat. If you bind the seam I'd keep the binding strips lightweight so you don't wonk up the goring joints and such.

I don't think you'll want a flat felled since topstiching doesn't jive well with the nice brocade. Smiley

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Elphelba
« Reply #3 on: February 20, 2007 08:22:20 AM »

Thanks. I think I'll try the overcast stitch, I think the binding might be a little heavy.
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turtletrbl
« Reply #4 on: February 20, 2007 06:48:40 PM »

I would overcast each piece before putting the skirt together.  My experiences with brocade indicate that:

a) it will shred into oblivion if you don't finish the edges BEFORE sewing and

b) there is almost no way to finish gusset seams neatly -- French seams are almost certainly out and definitely out on brocade, since they would make it too heavy.

Good luck!  Let us know how it goes. 
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