HEY KNITTERS, WELCOME TO THE "TOP-DOWN RAGLAN" KAL for beginners!
Original shape (minus cable) &
Boatneck shape (in size medium)
Newbie to top-down raglans?? Then you've joined the right group! This pattern is a mix between your standard generic top-down raglan & my own hints and instructions on this raglan sweater. I have also included a boat-neck option, as well as side shaping. You can spice up the pattern with stripes, cables or lace if you wish. There's lots of benifits of knitting it top-down: no sewing and shape management at any time!
Make sure you read the hints along the way, to minimize a need to frog because it doesn't fit properly.If you're low on cash, try your sweaters with Caron Simply Soft! That's what most of us started with!
ADDITIONAL NOTES:
Need DPN help?!? Here's a tutorial on DPN's:http://knitting-up-a-storm.blogspot.com/2007/04/dpn-101.htmlAlso, here's the Pattern for $5 in Paris (picture shown above in grey & pale green):http://knitting-up-a-storm.blogspot.com/2007/04/5-in-paris.htmlMATERIALS:
--Worsted or heavy worsted weight yarn: approximately 700 (800, 900, 1000) yards. Most of us have been using Caron Simply Soft for our first (or second, or third...lol.) top-down. You can do that if you want to save some cash, or use something else (preferable something that wants you to use at least size 8US needles)
--Needles appropriate for yarn: about 5-6 mm (8-10 US) 24” circular needles and a set of 4 double-pointed needles in the same size
--4 Stitch markers, one being unique to mark the beginning of the round
--Darning needle
ABBREVIATIONS:
PM= place marker
Kf&b= knit into the front and back of 1 stitch
K=knit
p=purl
St.=stitch(es)
Sl=slide
SIZES: small, medium, large & extra large
Sorry, gauge measurements are not available for this pattern. I gave away the original sweater as a gift in the size "medium," and other sizes have generic cast-on amounts in comparison to the original. I recommend swatching for your size.
If you post any mods on your blog, please make a reference to the original designer. A lot goes into pattern-making. Thanks! 
DIRECTIONS:Step one: THE NECKBAND:Cast on 76 (88, 100, 112) stitches; join in the round on circular needles
Do a 1×1 (*K1,P1*) Ribbing for .5-1.5 inches -OR- using seed stitch
The ribbing measurement depends on how long you want the look. ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
For a boatneck: Rules:
1. if you want a boatneck, you will need to increase the number of stitches you start off with. Make sure to swatch it, so it doesn't fall off of you. My medium required 156 stitches (48-PM-30-PM-48-PM-30-PM). I did 2x2 ribbing on the top.
2. You will also need to do a little less increasing (that's instructions #3 and #4 in the pattern) because the top of the sweater falls lower. I increased every 2 rows, with a total of about 13 increase rows--that's about 4 1/2 inches--for my medium size. When you do about 9ish increases, try it on, and see if you need to do more!
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Step two: THE YOKE:Sweater layout: Front-PM-Sleeve 1-PM-Back-PM-Sleeve 2-Beginning of round PM
Round 1: k28 (32, 34, 38), slide PM, k10 (12, 16, 18), slide PM, k28 (33, 34, 38), slide PM, k10 (12, 16, 18), Slide PM.
Round 2: Knit straight across
Round 3 (RS): You will Kf&b in the first stitch of round, then
*knit to 1 stitch before PM, Kf&b, slide PM, Kf&b.
* knit to 1 stitch before end of round; Kf&b.
(*)=repeat inbetween these stars until end of round
[In layman's terms, the stitch before and after the place marker will be increased-- knit into the "front" and "back" of that stitch before and after a PM]
Round 4: Knit straight across
**Repeat rounds 3 & 4 21(24, 27, 31) times TOTAL**
SIDE NOTE: Apparently, there has been a few problems about too much increasing for their size, so I suggest that you get a second circular needle, put half of the stitches on it to try it on when you get 3/4 of the increasing done... that way, you know if you're going to need to stop increasing earlier! 
Next round: knit to first marker, discard PM, slip stitches between next two markers onto scrap yarn or stitch holders(these are the sleeve stitches), Slide PM, cast on 2 (3, 4, 5) stitches to the right-hand needle, knit to next sleeve marker, discard PM, slip stitches between markers to scrap yarn, slide PM, cast on 2, (3, 4, 5) stitches to right-hand needle, knit to end of round.
Step four: THE BODY:Continue knitting
without increases until body is 12 (13, 14, 15) inches from underarm or two inches short of total desired length. Work 1x1 ribbing or seed stitch for two-three inches, then bind off.
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Optional Side Shaping Instructions: (which is encouraged, if you want it to contour more to your natural waist. However it's not essential if you end with more than 4'' of ribbing on the bottom, as ribbing will do some shaping for you anyways.)
-To begin: place a marker half way among your total stitches (The waist sides= "side marker). The beginning of the round marker is the second "side marker."
Decreasing stitches for a more natural waist: Beginning 3” below the underarm, repeat decrease rounds every 5 rounds, 4 times.-k1, ssk, work in the round as established to 3 stitches before "side marker," k2tog, k1, sl pm, k1, ssk, knit until 3 stitches before "beginning of round marker" (that's the second "side marker"), k2tog, k1.
Note: Try on the sweater as you go. Everyone's body is shaped differently; be the judge of what you need more or less of.Increasing stitches to widen for hips: k1, m1, work to 1 stitch before side marker, m1, k1, sl m, k1, m1, work to 1 st before "beginning of round marker," m1, k1.
**Repeat increase row every 5 rows 4 times**~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Step five: THE SLEEVES: (Make Two)-Starting at the right side of the gap in the arm-hole area, pick up and knit 1 (2, 2, 3) stitches under the arm, place marker to mark the beginning of round, pick up and knit 1 (1, 2, 2) stitches from the left side of the gap in the arm-hole area.
-Slip sleeve stitches back onto double pointed needles, or circulars, and divide all of your stitches up evenly among your dpns. Join the round.
-Decrease round: k1, ssk, knit around to 3 stitches before marker, k2tog, k1.
-Knit straight for 4 rounds.
**Repeat the decrease round & knit straigh 4 rounds instructions
10 times (or desired narrowness) to form the upper arm shaping.**
-Knit straight until sleeve is 2” short of desired length, work 1x1 ribbing, or seed stitch for 2'', then bind off.
Step six: FINISHING TOUCHES:-Weave in all threads!
-Block, if necessary
-Wear it with pride!
