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Topic: Corset-like black/purple pvc fetish top <---- pic heavy  (Read 3492 times)
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aliengrace
« on: December 30, 2006 11:38:09 PM »

Hi, I just made a fetish-y top and I took photos as I went so I could share the process of making it.  You can click on the photos for a closer look via Flickr (and then if you're really interested in the hi-res version, you can click on 'All sizes').

the fetish top i've been making:


lining panels being sewn together, pattern pieces shown:


panels for lining (cotton drill) and fashion fabric (heavyweight garment pvc) now assembled:


i've just sewn the lining and fashion fabric layers down the seams, a little to one side - no stitch in the ditch for me:


detail of zip just having been set in centre back:


i've just sewn the boning channels; cable-tie bone shown also with rounded edge:


i'm in the process of sewing the pvc edge binding to the top of the bodice:


detail of sewing the edge binding at top (had to baste the corner into place but I now have a better method, turn the binding over so the right sides are together and stitch it square, then flip the binding back):


detail of marking end of boning, for figuring out where to put the edge binding at the bottom:


detail of finished edge binding at centre back zip:


the finished bodice part:


adding the harness (i had to do this in a hurry and didn't take more photos):


The pattern was a real slow pain to make, it was the first time I'd made anything skin-tight, especially as I have an asymmetrical back (a big scoliosis hump).  I drafted a close-fitting bodice block to my measurements, removed all the ease, doubled the bust dart, added front and back princess seam lines, and fooled around a lot to make lift-and-push-together boobage (what boobage I do have).  It took me 3 or 4 mock-up toiles with boning inserted before I was kinda happy with it.  Of course, more bones, more seams, more lining = better bust support.

I bought a walking foot halfway through making the top, and let me tell you, they ROCK.  Well worth it, I got mine from ebay! Leaves my teflon foot for dead when working with vinyl.  And so much less shifty shifting around of the layers, when the foot has a top-feed-dog as well as a bottom one in the machine!

As for the hardware, I used leatherworking tools and supplies. I lined all the straps with drill, and then punched very small holes for the rivets to push through.  This was to prevent the straps stretching and pulling the rivets out.

If anyone is interested, I can try to take a pic of myself wearing the thing.  And if anyone's got any questions, feel free to ask, it's a bit hard to know what to explain. x
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o0katiecat0o
« Reply #1 on: December 31, 2006 07:01:06 AM »

OOh. Vinyl.
 Grin looks tricky to sew with, great job!
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Asiago714
« Reply #2 on: December 31, 2006 07:07:30 AM »

Really nice, looks perfect!..
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liebschien
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« Reply #3 on: December 31, 2006 08:15:16 AM »

That shirt form is really cool. What kind is it?
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Sorcha Griannon
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« Reply #4 on: December 31, 2006 09:10:07 AM »

Beautiful corset...gotta love black and purple pvc together.  And I love the collar as well.  Bravo.

Sorcha
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aliengrace
« Reply #5 on: December 31, 2006 09:41:57 AM »

Hey thanks Smiley

The shirt form is er *checks* a singer 150. It's sizes 10 to 16.  It's alright, but slips a bit when hip and bust measurements are at different ends of the range.

Vinyl is tricky to sew.  Trust me to jump in the bloody deep end.  The main problem is that you can't pin it (damages it).  And if you make mistakes... best to start over again.  I basted the pvc with no-pins glue a couple of times, or careful hand stitches catching just the fabric backing, or used hair pins or paper clips.  Managed okay, you totally can too!!! It's a great material!

It is a thick stable kind of fabric (the heavyweight stuff is anyway), so in some ways it's easier than many fabrics to sew.  But because it's glossy, any wrinkles show up.  As I said, the walking foot really helps.  (I got mine for about $35 australian.) When sewing the boning channels, and when sewing the binding on, I had to be careful with keeping the fabric stretched out at right angles to the line of stitches as I sewed, else I got nasty diagonal wrinkles.... you know what I mean?  You can spot this unfortunate effect on badly made corsets and such.  Also, you can't ease pvc without wrinkles showing, so sewing a curve and a straight line together (as I had to do with the bust seam) requires a lot of close attention and balance lines and some swearing, too.
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Jillie
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« Reply #6 on: December 31, 2006 10:40:22 AM »

I have scoliosis too!  Corsets make me look kind of funny sometimes because they emphasize my uneven-ness, but I love yours.  Looks REALLY well put together!
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« Reply #7 on: January 01, 2007 02:51:19 AM »

I want to see apic of it on! I love it!
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aliengrace
« Reply #8 on: January 01, 2007 04:30:40 AM »

I'll go take a photo of myself in it soon Smiley  And thanks Smiley

Scoliosis is a pain and it makes wearing tight things annoying.  I worked out the difference between left and right back widths, at various heights on my back, to give me an idea of by how much to have the differences of the back panels.  I tried to ignore it for this pattern, but then I found that the zip at the back was quite diagonal and skewed, so I ran a string from my nape to tailbone, and drew along the string in texta on the toile to get an idea of which fabric needed to get shifted where.  I distributed the difference in panel widths across the two back panels.  You really can't notice a few cm difference.

Also, for corsets, I've had the duct tape method of pattern-making recommended to me, and even though I prefer to draft from scratch, I might do that to get an idea of how to shape the panels, especially for three or more panels per back side, as it's not just the width that's different, but also the shaping. x
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Sorcha Griannon
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« Reply #9 on: January 01, 2007 05:57:13 PM »



Also, for corsets, I've had the duct tape method of pattern-making recommended to me, and even though I prefer to draft from scratch, I might do that to get an idea of how to shape the panels, especially for three or more panels per back side, as it's not just the width that's different, but also the shaping. x

It probably would be a good thing for you to make a duct tape (or paper mache type) double of yourself to use instead of your store bought one since you have an asymetrical form.  It's rather easy to do, the hard part is getting someone to wrap you.

Sorcha
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Wench #2524, Sorcha. International Wenches Guild
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