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Topic: Share a technique  (Read 115119 times)
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CraftyImperfections
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« Reply #700 on: August 14, 2007 12:20:09 PM »

I have a question, has anyone tried using crackle medium?  I got some that gives a "weathered wood effect".  The directions were to apply acrylic paint, let it dry, apply the medium, then seal with acrylic sealant.  Didn't work so well for me.  Does anyone have any suggestions?
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« Reply #701 on: August 14, 2007 12:25:32 PM »

I haven't used it on ATCs but in my experience with it on wood, it seems to work best when your paint and your medium are the same brand.

Also, when you put the medium on, use as few strokes as possible...meaning don't brush it over and over again. I use wide sponge brushes, load up the brush and try to get as much covered in one stroke that I can. I get bigger crackles that way.
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« Reply #702 on: August 14, 2007 12:30:35 PM »

I have a question, has anyone tried using crackle medium?  I got some that gives a "weathered wood effect".  The directions were to apply acrylic paint, let it dry, apply the medium, then seal with acrylic sealant.  Didn't work so well for me.  Does anyone have any suggestions?

Yeah, with that stuff you have to use an acrylic undercoat, then the crackle, then an acrylic topcoat. The basecoat and top coat must be the same brand, but it's better if the crackle is a different brand, although it's not essential. The top coat must be brushed once and you must not go over it again or you will be filling the crackles in. The crackles can be accelerated with a heat gun. It's the incompatibility of the base and topcoat against the crackle medium which causes the crackles.  Wink
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« Reply #703 on: August 14, 2007 01:30:22 PM »

I agree with everyone, I just used it on a chair project and the only thing I would add would be that you need to put the crackle medium on, let it dry completely and spread it all in one direction.  Then put your top coat on using strokes in a 90 degree angle to the way you put on the crackle medium. the top coat is a one shot deal and I put it on fairly heavily for best results... dont paint over it.  it should crackle nicely
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« Reply #704 on: August 14, 2007 02:01:47 PM »

Thanks, I was wondering about the whole brand thing... I'm trying it out again and hopefully it will work!  I love that I can come up with the most random questions and you wonderful craftsters always seem to have an answer!
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« Reply #705 on: August 16, 2007 07:14:14 PM »

I've never used crackle medium, just glue, like this:

The other day I read where if you paint over regular school glue it will crackle like the stuff you buy at the store.  I tried it, and it worked (I actually used Aleene's Tacky Glue though) but I didn't like the white underneath.  So, using acrylic paint, I put a layer of dark green on (I used thick illustration board 'cause that was all I had that wouldn't buckle, but really thick paper might work too) and waited for it to dry.  Then I put a layer of glue on with my finger, waited a minute or two, then painted a layer of lighter green over the top very gently so the glue and the paint didn't mix.  This was the result.  http://www.craftster.org/pictures/data/500/29041Crackle.jpg
« Last Edit: December 03, 2010 03:13:49 PM by Phizzychick - Reason: fixed coding issue » THIS ROCKS   Logged

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« Reply #706 on: August 16, 2007 08:23:29 PM »

Cool tip and very well explained!!!  

I've never used crackle medium, just glue, like this:

The other day I read where if you paint over regular school glue it will crackle like the stuff you buy at the store.  I tried it, and it worked (I actually used Aleene's Tacky Glue though) but I didn't like the white underneath.  So, using acrylic paint, I put a layer of dark green on (I used thick illustration board 'cause that was all I had that wouldn't buckle, but really thick paper might work too) and waited for it to dry.  Then I put a layer of glue on with my finger, waited a minute or two, then painted a layer of lighter green over the top very gently so the glue and the paint didn't mix.  This was the result.  http://www.craftster.org/pictures/data/500/29041Crackle.jpg
« Last Edit: December 06, 2010 06:57:59 AM by Phizzychick - Reason: fixed coding issue » THIS ROCKS   Logged

SpottedFrog
« Reply #707 on: August 17, 2007 07:49:31 AM »

OMG I read the whole thing! In three sittings...

You can get some nice smudgy effects with colored pencils by erasing with a regular Pink Pearl eraser gently & in little circles, it takes out the pencil strokes & leaves the color, blends too if you are using better/ art quality colored pencils.
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sprinklez
« Reply #708 on: January 09, 2008 08:26:45 PM »

I just read the whole thing and I'm pretty excited to try some new techniques. I've just started with ATCs and basically I've been gluing stuff on and sewing beads and buttons.  Cheesy
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« Reply #709 on: January 13, 2008 11:47:09 AM »

Please feel free to correct me if im wrong but...

... I can't believe this (and I have read this whole thread AND done a search on the whole forum just to make sure) - that none of you have discovered Safmat??  Huh

Safmat is a see-through sticky-back plastic used by typsetters to layout text. It comes in standard printing paper sizes. Ok, you think, so what? well Safmat can be printed on using standard printer then can be cut up and stuck down. It's bigest attraction is that, unlike standard sticky plastic (like the clear stuff you used to cover books) or packing tape it has a matt, paper like surface and is nearly invisible once pressed down in place. Im sure you can also stamp onto the surface afterwards (but I havent tested this yet)

This means you can print out any image or words you wish , then using a scalpel neatly cut round them and place it anywhere onto a flat surface and only your printed text or image will be visible.

I tested with the little bit I had left at home last night and it can be used for the 'packing-tape' transfer technique. Seeing as how it comes in paper sizes you could transfer a really large image if you wanted - or you can scan & print or photocopy straight on to the safmat if you wish to preseve your image.

We used Safmat at Uni and after printing onto it, we laid over a transfer metallic foil and passed it through a encapsulating machine - when we then removed the sheet of foil all the areas of ink had been embossed by whatever could we had used - I will get some more Safmat tommorrow and try this again to see if it can be done using an iron at home - Im sure it can.

If anyone is looking to buy Safmat (and cant find it at their local art supplies store) It can be found here

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