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Topic: bone?  (Read 1455 times)
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SquidPrincess
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« on: October 10, 2006 08:00:34 PM »

So ages ago I saw this awesome creepy doll this crafster made for her daughter--

http://www.craftster.org/forum/index.php?topic=54105.0

and I totally want to make something similar to carry around for halloween and generally creep my skittish boyfriend out with, etc. However, I have no idea how to get that lovely ... aged ... yellowish ...bone-that's-been-in-dirt kind of look going. I figured you super awesome super helpful types on the board could help?

Also, she mentions porcelain clay, but is there a way to get the same sort of effect with...er...filmo, or similar?

Thanks for reading, dudes!
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Subversive
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« Reply #1 on: October 11, 2006 08:10:29 AM »

oh, yeah, there's lots of ways you can do bone. 

The easy way is to use an ivory-colored clay, maybe white mixed with a little beige and a little yellow, maybe even a little translucent (I find it tends to make faux natural materials look more realistic) and then "antique" the cured piece by painting on brown acrylic paint and wiping it off before it dries, leaving "dirt" in the crevices/carvings (like this http://www.sculpey.com/Projects/projects_AsianBeadBracelet.htm.) 

The more complicated way is to make one of the many faux ivory/bone recipes you can find on the internet or one of the zillions of PC-related books (the recipes in Victoria Hughes "Polymer: the Chameleon Clay" and in Sue Heaser's "techniques" book, the actual name of which currently escapes me, are the ones I think are best). 

ETA: AHA!  Here's a good link to the way I do ivory/bone:
http://www.thepolyparrot.com/faux_looks.pdf
« Last Edit: October 11, 2006 08:14:25 AM by Subversive » THIS ROCKS   Logged

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Diane B.
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« Reply #2 on: October 11, 2006 09:27:11 AM »

The maker used a "porcelain" clay and then painted over it for that faux bone head, but polymer clay does wonderfully well at simulating all types of bone and ivory, etc., all by itself. 

As Subversive mentioned, the two basic approaches are to use a single final color of clay with translucent mixed in it, or to do a striated version which recreates the natural strations in both ivory and bone.  "Antiquing" the final result (usually with a brown acrylic paint) is the final step, as well as sanding and buffing if a sheen or shine is desired (on the upper surfaces only).  The striations will show up even if the faux ivory is completely flat, but especially well if it's been antiqued.

There are lots of lessons and tips on making both bone and ivory with polymer clay on this page at GlassAttic, if you want to check them out, as well as links to photos of various types:
http://www.glassattic.com/polymer/faux-ivory.htm

Faux ivory or faux bone can be also stamped, carved, textured, etched and/or molded (...or "sculpted" into shapes).


Have fun!

Diane B.
« Last Edit: October 11, 2006 09:31:34 AM by Diane B. » THIS ROCKS   Logged

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SquidPrincess
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« Reply #3 on: October 13, 2006 02:24:25 PM »

Oooh, thanks, guys! I'm going out later today to pick up supplies. I am most excited. It's also a fabulous excuse to pick up some translucent clay! (mmm, and then I can use the tute on here for clay opals. mmmmmm, glittery. mmmm, shiny.)

and, subversive! love the sig. Smiley
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SquidPrincess
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« Reply #4 on: October 14, 2006 11:24:23 PM »

So here is my skull, thus far. Sadly, the flash washed out all the yellowing...

It is hollow! It was MUCH MORE WORK than I anticipated, hahah... furthermore it's basically the first thing I make out of polymer clay. Still, I think it's recognizably a skull? I wasn't going for realistic, anyway...(hence the cartoony teeth)

I used white and translucent fimo, so, thanks, guys!








This is the doll body I want to attach it to...



except I just realized I did not in fact make my skull a neck, so I am a little stumped about how to attach it. Hmm...

For size:


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MorbidKnits
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« Reply #5 on: October 15, 2006 09:09:12 AM »

Wicked!!
It's awesome. Well done!
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« Reply #6 on: October 15, 2006 12:48:34 PM »

hmm how about u make a kind of spinal cord, with the vertebrates and everything...that can be attached to the inside of the skull at the top and between the shoulders of the doll at the bottom?

looks really cool, good job =)
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SquidPrincess
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« Reply #7 on: October 15, 2006 03:08:16 PM »

Thanks! Oh, man, a spinal cord would've been AWESOME, but I didn't think I could make one strong enough and also I was out of clay. Smiley

i finally got it on the doll body, and posted on the toys board: http://www.craftster.org/forum/index.php?topic=127205.0
although it is also a mini purse.

And, morbid knits! I love your blog! and we both live in Florida, yaaay. I miss Tampa/Orlando almost as much as I miss Miami...I used to go to USF before transfering to UF and Tampa has great food and a goth club I liked, hah...whereas...gai nesville has emo nights and college food. bleck.
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"Revolution is a trivial shift in the emphasis of suffering." --Tom Stoppard
....
http://s101.photobucket.com/albums/m67/spooookypants/
....
la felicidad tiene tu nombre y tu piel
Diane B.
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« Reply #8 on: October 16, 2006 09:13:07 AM »

Oh it worked out great! (I looked at the other thread). 

You mentioned that you didn't know ways of making hollow objects (it sounds like you just made the skull freestanding and cooled it a often to firm up??). 

If there is a next time, you might want to use a removable or dissolvable armature to build the clay on, then take it out after the baking hardens the clay.  The most suitable armature material to use can depend on various things, but one will be the size of the hole(s) it will later be removed from.... the skull's neck hole was pretty big so you could have used things like aluminum foil or even paper, which could just be pulled out (the size of the object would be important too just for $$ reasons).  Or some things will change their size and/or consistency while baking, or afterward if exposed to various solvents, etc..  So you could also have used:

...a raw potato (or any fruit or veggie that softens during baking because it can be dug out after baking and cooling --cut or carve it into shape before adding the clay, if needed)

...dissolving out after baking:
.....grain-based foods like crackers/cereals/Cheetos/etc,
.....tissues, or other paper products like cardboard or papier mache boxes, will become limp and flexible enough after wetting to remove
.....cornstarch-based packing pellets, cornstarch-based clays ("porcelain clays")
.....homemadeair-dry "clay" made with non-permanent white glue ("school glue")... haven't actually tried this, but should work
.....eggshells (can be removed later using vinegar as a solvent...submerge in fresh vinegar overnight, then pull out

...beeswax can be melted out with heat (can also use a coating of beeswax on other things to smooth them, or build up layers while "sculpting" it)

...polystyrene forms (packaging foams, insulation foam boards--even stacked/glued for thickness, "Styrofoam", etc.) will shrink when heated ...if the clay does not completely cover the ps, cover the ps shape with aluminum foil before adding clay --otherwise that's not necessary

There's more info on all those "temporary-armature" methods on this page, if you're interested:
http://www.glassattic.com/polymer/armatures-temp.htm


Diane B.

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POLYMER CLAY "ENCYCLOPEDIA" 
http://glassattic.com/polymer/contents.htm
few of my photos
http://s96.photobucket.com/albums/l163/DianeBB
(had to move them from YahooPhotos, so many now without captions)
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