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Topic: How to stencil flawlessy. No pictures sorry.  (Read 20166 times)
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skibum1207
« on: September 02, 2004 05:40:36 PM »

Yesterday I stenciled a shirt and it came out so great I had to share this.

Supplies:

Contact paper with backing
Regular Elmers or that type glue
Xacto Knife
Brushable fabric paint, or acrylic paint from the craft store
If you are using a acrylic paint there is an additive that you can put in to make it better adhere to the fabric. It is usually with the crackle glazes and stuff.
Foam brush, use a small one
Something to put your paint on, I use the lid to a yogurt container
Whatever you want to stencil on
Old magazine or newspaper to put under when you are cutting with xacto kinf and to put in between the layers of facric you are stenciling on.


1) Figure out what you want to stencil and print it out from the computer or draw it with a dark pen or permanent marker on a regular sheet of paper.

2) Get out your glue and glue you design face down on onto the backing of the contact paper. MAKE SURE IF YOU ARE STENCILING WORDS YOU GLUE IT DOWN FACE DOWN SO YOUR WORDS WILL NOT BE BACKWARDS.

3) Once the glue is dry use the xacto knife to cut of the design. Depending on the sharpness of you blade you may have to slice a few times to get it to go through the paper, backing, and the contact paper.

4) Once you are all done cutting out you can peel off the backing to the contact paper. The paper you orginally printed out and glued down will peel off with the backing.

5) Stick the contact paper down to what you are stenciling on and press it down really well. If you are doing letters like O's cut out the circles to go inside and you can stick those down, just make sure you push them down really well.

6) Get out your foam brush and put some of your paint on you yogurt top. If you are using an additive make sure you mix it in really well with a brush.

7) Now dip your foam brush in the paint, make sure just to get a small amount of paint on your brush.

Cool Now just dab the paint on, make sure to just do an up and down motion so it does not bleed.

9) Apply as many coats as needed.

10) About 10 or 15 mins after applying the last coat peel off the contact paper caefully so you don't get any paint where you don't want to.

11) Allow it to dry flat for about 24 hours and I wou;dn't suggest washig it for 72 hours.

Well hope that works for you. I just did a few shirts like this and they came out great!
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carlyb
« Reply #1 on: November 12, 2004 08:32:16 AM »

Thanks for the awesome tutorial!  That sounds like it will work really well. I'm going on a stenciling rampage today!
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« Reply #2 on: November 12, 2004 06:32:26 PM »

You didn't iron the picture when it was dry? Did it stay on after you washed it?
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« Reply #3 on: February 08, 2005 03:34:39 PM »

Yes, I thought you were supposed to iron?
Thats why ive been holding off!
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« Reply #4 on: February 08, 2005 04:07:42 PM »

yeah, you should always heat set a stencil before wearing/washing.  make sure paint is totally dry...24 hours is a good rule....put a towel over the image and iron for a few seconds..make sure to move the iron so it doesnt burn an area.
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happybeenz
« Reply #5 on: March 26, 2005 12:29:48 PM »

is the contact paper sticky enough to reuse a few times?  because i have to make thirty shirts, and im not looking foward to cutting out the same thing thirty times.  even if it could be reused five or six times, thatd be great.  or is there something else i could use???
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skibum1207
« Reply #6 on: March 26, 2005 12:48:13 PM »

I have friends that swear by manilla folders. The contact paper doesn't really have good reusability. Also they sell the pieces of plastic that can be used when you want to stencil paint a room, that has worked pretty well too. Just remember to go easy on the paint because too much can cause bleeding. Good luck.

Dana
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« Reply #7 on: March 26, 2005 06:26:52 PM »

Plastic overhead projector sheets are the best thing for reusability. And since they're clear, it helps with stencil placement. You just have to spray on some spray adhesive (from any craft, office, or hardware store) and then it sticks really well to shirts and peels off easily. They're better than cardboard because they don't get soggy from ink and they're thinner.

I bought a huge box of overhead sheets and I'll sell you some for really cheap (message me)
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skibum1207
« Reply #8 on: March 26, 2005 08:29:10 PM »

I have never used overhead sheets, I guess they would work pretty well. Doesn't the spray adhesive mess up your shirt though? I have always been nervous using that stuff.

Dana
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« Reply #9 on: June 20, 2005 11:30:15 AM »

thanks for the tute, the instructions were very clear.

i just bought some spray on fabric paint. is it useless with this method? like, will it still turn out ok if i spray the stencil instead of dabbing it on with a foam brush?
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skibum1207
« Reply #10 on: June 22, 2005 03:11:12 PM »

i would think  that would work, just spray lightly, the more wet paint you gum up the more likely it is to bleed through and that is no fun. let me know if it works out for you. i would make sure you cover up everywhere you don't want to get painted b.c the spray can end up everywhere.

dana
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« Reply #11 on: June 23, 2005 10:09:52 AM »

i would think that would work, just spray lightly, the more wet paint you gum up the more likely it is to bleed through and that is no fun. let me know if it works out for you. i would make sure you cover up everywhere you don't want to get painted b.c the spray can end up everywhere.

dana

thanks! I'll be sure and post pictures when i'm done with it.
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Fudgegirl
« Reply #12 on: December 20, 2005 02:01:42 PM »

happybeanz - if you're wanting to do heaps of copies of the one print, you might want to try screenprintng the stencil. That way you can just print, lift the screen up, put the screen on another tee, print and repeat! it'll save time coz you dont need to wait for it to dry. try using baking paper / cookie sheets (whatever you call em) and cut the stencil out of that. Ive found it works really well, and then you dont have to use glue.
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libby2595
« Reply #13 on: February 28, 2006 09:17:45 AM »

this sounds great and i can't wait to try... just one question

what is the additive that you mix with acrylic paints?
what's it called?

thanks
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Fudgegirl
« Reply #14 on: February 28, 2006 11:20:48 PM »

it's usually just called 'textile medium', or thats what it's called in Australia, soo i guess it would be called the same thing. Or you can buy those special paints that are already good to use on fabric and do the same thing as textile medium+acrylic  but i dont know what they're called.  Smiley Fudgegirl
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lseratt
« Reply #15 on: March 07, 2006 01:01:35 AM »

If you're looking for durability use cardstock paper, not plastic. I spray it every time with spray adhesive, works perfect.

Levi
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« Reply #16 on: April 14, 2006 09:05:00 AM »

Thank you for explaining this.  I really think I just didn't get stenciling. I just kept taking the really cool patterns and using them to make really hip embroidery projects! I'm not quite sure what I thought it was everyone was doing.....but I had it all kinds of wrong in my head that is for sure!!

Thank you again!
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« Reply #17 on: May 11, 2006 03:07:40 PM »

i have to say, though. if you're only looking to make one or two copies of a print, contact paper is kind of an ingenious idea. smooches to whoever thought that up.
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FrogPuddle
« Reply #18 on: August 26, 2006 09:28:47 PM »

this is great, thanks! Grin
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« Reply #19 on: August 09, 2009 09:03:57 PM »

Awesome Tute! I am going to run & make dinosaur shirts now! Grin
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Astolante
« Reply #20 on: September 24, 2009 12:56:02 PM »

What a great idea! I live in the UK, so freezer paper is hard to come by.
A quick language question - I've looked on the net and seen pictures of contact paper (like freezer paper, it doesn't seem to be a UK thing, or not by that name Sad), and it looks like that plastic film with a paper backing that you can stick on books as a protective cover (sorry, probably a very bad description of that!). Does anyone know if this is the case? That's really cheap over here, and if it works...!

Thanks for the tutorial! It's very detailed and easy to follow, even without pictures! Wink

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dewshinesdopp
« Reply #21 on: April 08, 2012 06:33:57 AM »

What a great idea! I live in the UK, so freezer paper is hard to come by.
A quick language question - I've looked on the net and seen pictures of contact paper (like freezer paper, it doesn't seem to be a UK thing, or not by that name Sad), and it looks like that plastic film with a paper backing that you can stick on books as a protective cover (sorry, probably a very bad description of that!). Does anyone know if this is the case? That's really cheap over here, and if it works...!

Thanks for the tutorial! It's very detailed and easy to follow, even without pictures! Wink



Contact paper is often clear.  It comes on a roll, and has a sticky back.  It has paper on it that peels off.  It is "supposed" to be used for lining cupboards or drawers, but in my house it gets used to keep all sorts of things somewhat water-tight.

I have seen it called "drawer liner paper" or "laminating paper". 

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