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Topic: simplicity 4047 please help!  (Read 720 times)
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atomic mary
« on: August 27, 2006 07:10:48 PM »

hello fellow craftsters!
i am hoping that someone can help me. i am wanting to make http://www.simplicity.com/index.cfm?cat=1&type=1&sec=6&startrow=1
 (#4047 view B) and i need to know about doing a full bust adjustment on a top like this. would i need to? how would i go about it? i looked at the fitting books i have and none of them address when the sleeve is part of the body (dolman sleeve?). i realize that it's kind of full in that area already which makes me wonder if i just cut out like a size 10 for my shoulders back and waist and a 14(or whatever size is appropriate) at the bust area if that would work? would i have the problem of it riding up in the front though?
any suggestions or answers would be greatly appreciated
thanks in advance
atomic mary
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CraftyFox
« Reply #1 on: August 28, 2006 04:50:10 AM »

From what I can tell, you have 2 options.  You could adjust the darts to make them bigger (you may want to make a muslin to fiddle with this). Patterns are usually made for a B-cup, so if you were a C-cup, the difference is about an inch, so you would have to make each dart (the bottom darts) 1/4 inch deeper. This would take in 1/2 inch per dart, and 1 inch total. Does that make sense? That way there would be an extra inch difference between your bust measurement and your waist, where the dart begins. You can probably leave the darts on the top as they are, but I would try on a muslin or baste everything together to try on just in case.

Alternatively, since the top has darts on the bottom and the top, you could just cut a line between the darts (ie the top front would be in 3 pieces) and treat it as a princess seam. There is a great tutorial for adjusting the bust on princess seams here: http://www.flickr.com/photos/38923480@N00/sets/72157594193947536/

Hope that helps, good luck!

tatjana
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a knit by the seat of her pants kinda gal.
 Crafty Fox
paroper
« Reply #2 on: August 28, 2006 09:34:47 AM »

You should never just increase the dart without doing it right.  Your top will be short in the front.  The front is spit across the center of the bustline and hinged.  Here is a tutorial on making all sorts of pattern alterations.  The full bust is detailed here.  The fact that you have the lower darts can be very helpful in making your changes!

http://cahe.nmsu.edu/pubs/_c/c-228.html
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atomic mary
« Reply #3 on: August 28, 2006 10:46:31 AM »

thank you for replying. i was most concerned i guess about the sleeve being altered as i make a full bust adjustment. won't that make the sleeve bigger too? the waist darts i'm not too worried about. it's just really the bust area because of the lack of darts there and not wanting to make the sleeve bigger.i know most patterns are drafted using a b cup and i am a g cup.  i guess i could should just make a fba and a muslin to go along with it.
thank you both for the tutorials. i have them  bookmarked and am sure i will refer to them often
atomic mary
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paroper
« Reply #4 on: August 28, 2006 10:57:07 AM »

make your darts on the side as though they were there.  It is not a problem.  Since you have waist darts...this is what they are...they are a pivoted dart that is taken from the side and added to the waist.  You can either add darts on the side OR you can add the extra amount to the waist.  The way this is done is you make you side adjustment and then HINGE your fabric at the cent of the bust across and vertical.  Then swing the fabric to open the dart at the waist more.  The tip of your dart ends 1 inch from the bust point. 

As for the sleeve.  It should never be affected by a bust alteration unless you are talking of a princess dress...but even then when you get back to the  seamline it is still the same seamline..you always pivot the fabric.  The only other time the sleeve would be affected is if you have a dart that comes down from the sleeve opening or your garment has a kimono sleeve that hooks into the body of the garment.  In this particular case the sleeve is well above the bustline.
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