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Topic: Cropped shrug/hoodie *now with pattern*  (Read 99383 times)
Tags for this thread: shawl , wrap , shrug , pattern  Add new tag
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Hitgirl
« Reply #50 on: September 02, 2006 08:59:09 AM »

i'd like to take this upon myself as my first non-hat, scarf, or mitten project but i have a few questions:

i have a 36" bust, so should i add a few more stitches or just leave it and hope that it stretches enough? or maybe knit it on bigger needles?

how would i go about adding a few buttonholes along the ribbed part? or could i perhaps use loops of yarn or i-cord to close the buttons with, and then there wouldn't be anything overlapping so it would be bigger?

and mostly, how complicated is this?? i haven't ever attempted a sweater or anything of the sort...could i do it?

Seeing as once you've finished knitting the main thing and the hood, you pick up stitches to knit the border all around, couldn't you maybe knit a few more rows for the border? It wouldn't make a huge difference, but it'd be something, right?
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canarysanctuary
« Reply #51 on: September 02, 2006 09:21:07 AM »

Thanks so much for the pattern!  I can't wait to make this.  I may have skipped over this part, but what kind of yarn did you use and how many skeins? I'm gearing up for a big yarn-fest, and so have to create my MUST KNIT shopping list  Cheesy
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FluffyMonkey
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« Reply #52 on: September 02, 2006 11:17:39 AM »

Hey, I'm working on this, and I've gotten to the back decreases. Where it says, "Continue raglan decreases as follows: Dec at each end every other RS row 10 times. (If more length is required, inc. number of repeats) BO all stitches," how many do you decrease each row and how? K2tog and SSK? Sorry to bug you with questions, but thanks!
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« Reply #53 on: September 03, 2006 07:00:42 PM »

I decreased once on each side every fourth row (so two decreased stitches on each decrease row). To decrease the first stich, I used SSK, becasue that's a decrease that slants to the left. To decrease the last stitch I used K2tog, a right-slanting decrease.

You could actually use K2tog on both sides once they're seamed it won't even be noticable, but I'm crazy anal so I like everything to be real symmetrical.

Hope that makes sense. Post back if it doesn't.
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FluffyMonkey
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« Reply #54 on: September 03, 2006 07:53:54 PM »

I decided to go with SSK's and K2togs, and I think it's working. Thanks!
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"There are two kinds of strengths: the strength to lead, and the strength to follow; the strength to control, and the strength to yield. There are two kinds of power: the power to strip another's soul bare, and the power to stand naked."
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xie
« Reply #55 on: September 04, 2006 09:10:18 AM »

I'm considering rewriting the pattern using a top-down method, and including proper sizing. It might take a while to do, but I'm interested.

What do you gals think, would it be worth it? Smiley

rtrgrrl, i rewrote the pattern as a top-down (since i hate hate hate seaming.)  i haven't actually worked it yet (since i'm trying to finish a sweater for a wedding this saturday!) but if it's alright with you, i could post the top-down version here.  it looks like a great knit.   Grin

//
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rtrgrrl
« Reply #56 on: September 05, 2006 02:33:19 AM »

So many questions!

- xie, please do post your pattern! I posted it to share with everyone to use and contribute to. Cheesy

- I picked up the stitches for the hood around the neckline to give it more strength and stability.

- I used a yarn called Cardea by Ski Yarn. It's Japanese, and I am not totally sure of its availablility anywhere; I just happened to stumble upon it while shopping in Sydney.

- If you are a 36", and the gauge feels loose enough, it should stretch to fit you.

- I am not a buttonhole expert, so I can't answer that question, sorry!

- I did SSK at one side and K2TOG on the other cause I am also a symmetry freak.

- If you can knit, purl, increase, and decrease, you can make this sweater!


I hope this answers all the questions!
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xie
« Reply #57 on: September 05, 2006 04:18:23 AM »

- xie, please do post your pattern! I posted it to share with everyone to use and contribute to. Cheesy

 Grin

I haven't actually worked this version of the pattern yet, but I re-wrote it as a top-down raglan, which I will be working on next.  (I imagine this should work fine, but I'll edit it if I come to any stumbling blocks.)  Body is worked in one piece with sleeves places on waste yarn and worked later on DPNs; hood and edging are picked up and worked same as original pattern.

Same information as the original pattern regarding gauge, needles and sizing (except that entire sweater is worked on circs for fitting all the stitches on, and DPNs for the sleeves.)

Total Top-Down construction:

CO 86 sts.
Place marker at 11, 25, 61, 75 (or count 11, pm, count 14 from marker, pm, count 36 from next marker, pm, count 14 from last marker, pm. 11 sts rem past last marker.)

Row 1: inc (k-f/b), k til 1 st before marker, *inc, pm, inc, k til 1 st before marker; rep from * til last st, inc.

Row 2 and every WS row: P all.

Row 3, 7, 11, 15, 19, 23: K all.
Row 5, 9, 13, 17, 21, 25: Rep Row 1.
(or, rep row 1 every other RS row, alternating with plain knit RS rows.)

Row 27: K all.
Row 29: K til 1 st before marker, *inc, pm, inc, k til last st before marker; rep from * til last st, k.

Row 31, 35: K all.
Row 33, 37: rep row 29.  (at row 37, sts should count 28, 34, 56, 34, 28; 180 sts total)

Row 39: k til marker (28 sts), place next 34 sts on waste yarn, k til next marker (56 sts), place next 34 sts on waste yarn, k til end (28 sts).
(112 sts; sleeves are on waste yarn, left front, back and right front on needles.)

ROW 40 (WS): p til marker (28sts), CO 12 sts, p til next marker (56 sts), CO 12 sts, p til end (28 sts). (136 sts total).
Remove markers, if desired.

Row 41 (RS): K all.

Cont in St st for 5" (about 32 rows). (136 sts)

Work in 2x2 rib for 3" (about 20 rows). (136 sts)

Loosely BO all sts in pattern (2x2 rib). (136 sts)


Sleeves:

Place sleeve sts on DPNs. (34 sts)

Pick up 12 sts from underarm and join. (46 sts)

Work in the round (St st) until sleeve are desired length minus 2". (46 sts)

Work in 2x2 rib for 2" (about 12 rows). (46 sts)

Loosely BO all sts in pattern (2x2 rib). (46 sts)

Repeat for other sleeve.


Hood:

Pick up stitches along the neck for hood. (86 sts)

Work in St st for about 3.5" (about 22 rows). (86 sts)

Place marker at center of sts. (43 sts, m, 43 sts)

K to marker, m1, pm, m1, k to end. Repeat every other RS row 3 more times (4 times total). (94 sts)

Cont in St st for about 2.5" more (about 16 rows). (94 sts)

K to 2 sts before marker, ssk, pm, k2tog, k to end.
Repeat every other RS row 2 more times, then every RS row 7 times. (74 sts)

Use 3 needle BO to seam hood halves together, or kitchener st to graft together.


Edging:

With smaller needles, pick up sts around the middle and hood.

Knit in 2x2 rib for 8 rows.

BO all sts.


Weave in all ends.
Block lightly.


[I posted it exactly as I had made notes for it, so there may be extraneous listing of rows, because I print out the pattern and check them off when completed.  Wink  Hope this helps those wanting to knit this hoodie top-down!]
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« Reply #58 on: September 09, 2006 05:33:13 AM »

Absolutely adorable! I think i'm going to borrow your idea a bit, add some buttons... How many yards of yarn did you use? (My apologies if you said that already, i read through and must have missed it if so).
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« Reply #59 on: September 09, 2006 06:47:36 AM »

I am definitely trying the top down pattern since those are my fav to knit. Thanks for taking the time to write/post the pattern.
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