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Topic: The random RESIN question thread!  (Read 321296 times)
Tags for this thread: resin , mold , catalyst , resin_problems  Add new tag
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Diane B.
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« Reply #1710 on: January 07, 2014 09:22:50 AM »

Yellowness in epoxy resin can be caused by too much UV light (sunglight, fluorescent light) or heat (room temperature or other heat) over time, or by creating epoxy resin items deeper/thicker than 1/2" or even less (unless that depth/thickness is created 1/8" at a time).
So either keep your items away from those situations or don't make thick items with one pour.
Or you can coat them once hardened with one of the  (clear, gloss) polyurethanes that have UV protection.  Varathane is one brand of polyurethane that has UV protection (the water-based one at least), but that should be written on the front of the can at the hardware store.
Using a coat of polyurethane will give an even tougher surface on resin items as well.

Actually, re-reading your post I see you said you purchased a medium-sized *bottle* of Envirotex Light.  Assuming that was just a typo since epoxy resins (and polyester resins too) come only in two parts--two bottles, part A and part B.  They won't harden till mixed together.

It also sounds like perhaps the yellowing was in *one of the bottles* however (the one with the "hardener" I guess you meant, or part B).  If that's the case, it could also be excess UV light or heat (or age).  If you haven't kept your bottles away from heat and light during the month you've owned them, you could probably just take them back to the store for a refund and assume that the resin was already "too old" on the shelves (resins do have a shelf life--about one year).

You might also want to check the resin page at my site for more info and tips:

« Last Edit: January 07, 2014 09:36:23 AM by Diane B. » THIS ROCKS   Logged

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« Reply #1711 on: January 07, 2014 10:32:28 AM »

What I meant by medium size bottle, there are three different sizes, I brought the middle size. I do also mean the harder, as Part B. The thing is, I brought it and it was still in the box, in my closet, no heat exposed, unless it was from the heat from the floor (I live on the second floor of a apartment complex). I went ahead and mixed them and they appear not too yellow, so I am okay, but I am going to have to purchase another bottle that is in better shape so I can use it for resin that has to be clear color. I am using the yellowish resin to mix glitter, etc.

I looking for fabrics! Willing to do a fabric exchange or some kind of swap.

I am up for private swap for Teesha Moore patches!! PM me if  you are interested! :-D
Diane B.
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« Reply #1712 on: January 08, 2014 01:10:37 PM »

First, it's best to refer to part B of a two part resin as the "hardener" (or the "catalyst" especially if referring to polyester resins).  Just "harder" is easy to misinterpret.

As for the bottle sizes, I'm not aware that Envirotex Lite epoxy resin comes in more than the smallest size/quantity at regular stores..at least they didn't used to be:
Here are the quart and gallon sizes though from online:
Polyester resins may come in more than one size even at craft and hardware stores, but usually in only the smallest size.

Do note that part B may normally look a little yellowish in the bottle because it's thick, and especially if it's a bit older. 
You probably wouldn't see that once you've use in more thinly though.
BUT keep in mind that most of the yellowing in resins comes AFTER they're hardened, and have been exposed to UV light a few months or to too much heat.

As I said though it's quite possible that the resin may have been too old for good performance too.  Shelf life is only 6-12 months, but according to others it's a lot longer if kept in good conditions. 

« Last Edit: January 08, 2014 01:17:14 PM by Diane B. » THIS ROCKS   Logged

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« Reply #1713 on: January 25, 2014 01:22:42 AM »

Sigh- I purchased a medium size bottle of EnviroTex Lite resin, a month ago (I did checked, the harder was clear according to my eyes), fast forward a month, now it is a little bit yellow. If I go ahead and mix a batch, will it come out yellow or clear? Help!  Huh
If your resin has yellowed in the bottle, then consider it expired. I wouldn't work with it.
« Last Edit: January 25, 2014 01:27:28 AM by I Sew Cute » THIS ROCKS   Logged

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« Reply #1714 on: January 16, 2015 10:57:02 AM »

Hi everyone! I know bubbles have been asked about dozens of times before but I've tried ALL the solutions I've read about and still having no luck, so thought I might as well as again in case anyone has something new to suggest!

I'm using ICE epoxy resin to fill backless bezels which are about 1cm/half an inch deep (though as I'm adding inclusions that I want scattered throughout the bezel I'm rarely filling it more than half full in one pour). I'm finding that I keep getting teeny TEENY bubbles which I just can't get out for love nor money. As these bezels are backless I want the light to shine through and not have the effect ruined by teeny tiny bubbles! The bubbles seem to occur at the mixing stage.

So far I've tried the following:

- Different mixing sticks (including wood and plastic, round and flat)
- Mixing slowly and gently
- Warming the resin and the hardener before mixing
- Warming just the resin before mixing
- Heating my room to about 73 degrees and making sure humidity is less than 50%
- Sitting the cup holding mixed resin in warm water while it rests before pouring.
- Blowing on the surface of the resin (both in the cup and in the bezels) using a heat gun.
- Pouring the mixed resin in a thin stream into a new, clean cup (just seemed to make more bubbles.)

Using these methods I've cut down the number of bubbles but I want them completely GONE. Anything else I should try? Is my room maybe too hot or too cold? Is there a different resin I should use?
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« Reply #1715 on: January 17, 2015 12:26:32 PM »

What kind of inclusions are you using - if you are using things like feathers or flowers, there may be some air bubbles that will develop because there may be a lot of surface area along all the tiny little edges and you may not be able to get rid of everything.  But you could also dip things into some resin, before laying it into your resin pieces too to help reduce some bubbles.  You could use something sharp like a pin or toothpick to help lift the bubbles up to the surface and pop them with your warm breath.  I also will carefully wave a match over the surface to pop bubbles too - though ones deep down will still need something to coax it up - like the sharp pin.  You could try thinner pours when layering different things.  You could try warming your room more - cold apparently can cause more fine bubbles, though I haven't seen it myself.  Sometimes, some really fine bubbles may not even show until the piece has started drying.  If it is really fine bubbles, you may even try to add some pearl mica powder that adds some iridescence, and may trick the eye into not seeing the bubbles.

Diane B.
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« Reply #1716 on: January 18, 2015 03:08:49 PM »

One thing I read about the Ice Resin brand is a recommendation to let it rest for 5 min after stirring for a total of 3 min (in two cups--not waxed cups of course).

Dipping the beads in resin and getting them "wet" all around before adding to your bezels should help prevent all the tiny bubbles that would otherwise get caught between them.

And btw, it's the CO2 from match flames and hair dryers, etc, that pops the bubbles, not the heat.  So one good method is to breathe out through a straw directly over any bubbles which will direct CO2 where you want it.

You could try another resin but Ice Resin is one of the ones that domes.  That comes with some problems though compared to "regular" resins (including that it must be sealed with polyurethane/etc) so you might want to switch to one of those if the warming, low humidity, thorough mixing (not nec. slowly), no wax on cups, dipping, resting, and CO2 don't work.  For small items a longer-setting epoxy resin can even work (like Devcon 2 Ton, 30 min Set).

For more on the different brands and problems of epoxy resins, and also polyester resins, check out my answers in these previous questions over at YahooAnswers:
... and Easy Cast info/instructions, many of which apply to other epoxy resins:
using resins in permanent cells and also in temporary molds, cabochons, etc:
releases, molds, places to buy:

« Last Edit: January 18, 2015 03:10:00 PM by Diane B. » THIS ROCKS   Logged

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« Reply #1717 on: July 09, 2015 04:34:14 AM »

does anyone know what the best kind of mold would be to make resin oendants, etc? i cannot find any ice cube trays small enought for what i want and no candy molds or anything. Im thinking if making my own molds out of plaster or paris or clay. has anyone tried this?

Hi!  I make cabochons using paint pallettes from Joanne's! You can put them in the freezer once they are completely cured and hardened for a few minutes and they pop right out!   Those are necklaces I make using them, they are flat on the back and because the surface of the pallette is smooth they turn out shiny!

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