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Topic: The random RESIN question thread!  (Read 358624 times)
Tags for this thread: resin , mold , catalyst , resin_problems  Add new tag
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« Reply #1650 on: February 21, 2011 10:40:23 PM »

Ok, I've been trying to research this as best as I can but with so much information out there it's a little overwhelming. Maybe someone can point me in the right direction...

I'm looking to coat some things with resin (Sealant spray won't do because I want the items to have a much thicker coating, so don't bother suggesting it.) I've decided that this is the easiest solution as casting them in resin would take custom mold making, release agents, etc. But I digress. Anyway, I'd like to mix up some resin and dip the items for a coat or two or three (with drying time in-between, of course.)

This is my criteria:
- Completely Clear
- Will Not Yellow (But if it may, suggest something to seal it and cut the UV rays)
- Waterproof
- No shrink/ warp
- No tackiness

What brand/ type do you guys suggest for this project?

I've looked at things like: Envirotex Lite, Ultra-Glo Polymer Coating, EasyCast Clear Casting Epoxy , Crystal Sheen, Crystal Sheen Casting Resin, ICE Resin....etc.

And I just don't know which I should be using! And input would be great Cheesy

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Diane B.
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« Reply #1651 on: February 22, 2011 10:11:40 AM »

It could help if we knew the size/shape of the items you want to coat, and also what material they are (at least on the surface).

As for the type of resin to use, you'd want to use an epoxy resin for coating things, not a polyester resin.  
Epoxy resins can't be thicker than about 1/8" per fully-cured layer or pouring (in a mold), but you could coat the piece multiple times if you waited that long between coats.  Epoxy resin can be brushed on for a thick coating, or the item can be dipped in it for an even thicker coating (but there are some things to know about dipping**).
A "regular" epoxy resin would be good (Envirotex Lite, Ultra-Glo, Crystal Sheen, etc), but some of the epoxies are tweaked and will have some disadvantages compared to those--like Easy Cast which will get a somewhat softened surface if exposed to body heat or higher and if thin will become somewhat flexible (though unlike regular epoxy resins, it can be cast more deeply).  I researched ICE epoxy resin awhile back but can't remember its dis-advantages...maybe just that it's more expensive?

The other resins you mentioned in the list are polyester resins, not epoxy resins (which are mixed one-to-one btw), and those aren't good for coatings unless you'll be putting something on top of them, or you don't mind sanding off the tacky surface that results on any side of the cured resin from its curing in the presence of air (polyester resins are often called "casting resins" because they're often used inside molds, or they're used between layers of fiberglass cloth where their tackiness is an advantage, etc.).

Epoxy resins aren't UV resistant though so will yellow with long exposure to UV light, but any resin can be given a topcoat of clear gloss polyurethane that is UV-resistant (like the brand Varathane).
All resins are water-proof in most senses of that word.
Resins may shrink a bit (noticed mostly on the surface edges of castings in molds) but you wouldn't notice anything like that when used as a coating around something.
Tackiness can result from different things... using a polyester resin (on any side facing the air), insufficient mixing, too low a temp during any point or too high humidity, resin too old, wrong amount of one part to the other--esp. polyesters, etc.

(And btw, releases aren't necessary for resins IF molds made from the right materials are use.  And also, "custom mold making" can be easy and quick with some materials like 2-part silicone putties for example for many things.)

As for the "sealant spray," I assume you're thinking of a polyurethane, or "acrylic" spray or artists' fixative, etc.  Those won't be good for getting a nice thick clear and even coating, but brushing or dipping into a regular liquid polyurethane will give a coating like that (and can be done repeatedly, and won't take nearly as long to do as resin).  We do that kind of thing for polymer clay items --brushing and/or dipping-- and also use various kinds of clear finishes on it when needed, so you can find info about the types, brands, dipping, etc., on this page at my site if you're interested (stick to the Varathane category if you want the thickest, strongest, and also least expensive finish):
** http://glassattic.com/polymer/finishes.htm

And if you want much more in on resins (types, brands, mixing, applying, curing, coloring, etc), check out this page too:
This previous post of mine summarizes some of the characteristics of the resins too:

Diane B.

« Last Edit: February 22, 2011 10:28:54 AM by Diane B. » THIS ROCKS   Logged

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« Reply #1652 on: March 01, 2011 02:49:39 PM »

I'm having a problem with my resin stuff for the first time ever.  ;O; 

I cast pendants using Castin' Craft polyester resin, and coated them with envirotex lite epoxy resin to make them shiny and non-sticky except only the top part cures completely while the sides remain a little soft.  If I scratch it, it leaves a mark and even fingerprints show up.  I used a craft heat gun to pop any bubbles.  I've coated polyester pieces with epoxy resin before and this has never happened.   

It's also not the batch because using the same batches I tried coating the other pieces with, I cast some more pieces and they came out perfectly ok.  Those cured in a few hours.  Does anybody have any advice for me, please?
« Reply #1653 on: March 07, 2011 01:10:43 PM »

Oh man...Resin is currently the bain of my existence!
I use red plastic cups from the dollar store and wooden Popsicle sticks to stir.
Lacquer Thinner cleans everything up...I use it on spills, drips from my resin can, cleaning out my moulds upon release.
I bought moulds off of etsy.
Joanns doesn't have resin stuff, michaels has cast 'n craft, but Hobby Lobby, I have found, has the best options.  Colors, shimmers, mould release, moulds, and books.


Here is a blog I wrote about our adventure.

The stuff stinks to high heaven, but we just opened the door and had a little fan on.

I also found that they will remain tacky until you set them with a hair dryer or put them in the oven.  I haven't gotten that far to trying to finally set them, I just know the chess pieces I was making always end up tacky (or impressionable...if you hold them too tight, it leaves finger print impressions.) and the hubs found on google to use a hair dryer or put them in the oven for a bit...

I am still in the trial and error phase as well, so good luck!


My candle burns at both ends, it will not last the night.  But oh, my friends, and oh, my foes, it gives a lovely light.

« Reply #1654 on: March 09, 2011 05:12:00 AM »

I hope it's okay to still post in this thread!

I know resin heats up to cure, so here's my question: will it heat up enough to break glass? I want to fill one of those tiny vials with (epoxy) resin but thought I'd ask if anyone knows whether the heat will make the glass go explodey. I'd rather not waste the bottles or the resin which, down here in Australia, is rather expensive.
« Reply #1655 on: March 17, 2011 06:36:29 PM »

So I'm going to make some resin plugs and I am having a hard time finding out if resin is safe to use in the ears. I have super sensitive ears so has anyone else tried this out?
Diane B.
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« Reply #1656 on: March 18, 2011 08:32:40 AM »

Using resin and another cured plastic (polymer clay) in the earlobes has been discussed before, and some of the same factors would apply to resins in general though some might not.  

There are also some ways of getting around the issue that might be interesting to you --especially if you have sensitive earlobes/skin/etc (and even more if using epoxy resin, which is more allergenic to most people than polyester resin).

There's a summary on this page at my site about the issues, possible solutions, etc:
http://glassattic.com/polymer/jewelry.htm (click the category Earrings, then scroll down a ways to the long paragraph called For Stretched Ear Lobes)

And these previous Craftster threads have replies from me you might be interested in, as well as other opinions pro and con from other Craftsters:
« Last Edit: March 18, 2011 08:35:15 AM by Diane B. » THIS ROCKS   Logged

few of my photos
(had to move them from YahooPhotos, so many now without captions)
« Reply #1657 on: May 26, 2011 04:15:53 PM »

OK I'm still new to this but I'm working on some bangles for me and my sisters but I want to put our pictures in them or on them I have made the mold and good at that part but I don't no how to put the pictures in them so that they are on top of the bracelets please help so send me a link something I no it can be done just need to no how thanks for the help and taking the time
Diane B.
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GlassAttic --polymer clay "encyclopedia"

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« Reply #1658 on: May 27, 2011 09:37:02 AM »

Not quite sure what you have or want.  So is it that you have made a mold for a bangle, and you want to fill it with one of the kinds of clear resin, and you have some very small pictures that will fit into the mold that you want to embed in the resin (or one picture per bangle, or one strip?), etc??

There are various factors when dealing with resin(s) that could be problematic (there is a bit of a learning curve), but you just asked about the embedding part, right? 
The general procedure for most items with embedments is to seal things like pictures (usually with ModPodge or a diluted permanent white glue like Elmers GlueAll including the edges) and let dry, then pour most of the resin into the mold, (then usually) wait for the resin to gel and press the image onto it face down, (if you've coated the image with resin, let this coating gel); then pour in another layer of resin and allow everything to cure before removing the item from the mold (when the molded resin is turned face up, the image will then also be face up, but down inside the resin).  There are various ways to do it though.

If you're thinking of bangle molds, like this, however:
...you'll need to do the pouring and positioning in layers of resin so the images will face the outer "side" of the mold (vertically), or to perhaps attach the pics to a clear or non-clear material which can then be placed in the resin in that orientation, etc.



Maybe others will have better techniques though.

« Last Edit: May 30, 2011 07:00:25 AM by Diane B. » THIS ROCKS   Logged

few of my photos
(had to move them from YahooPhotos, so many now without captions)
« Reply #1659 on: May 29, 2011 09:03:50 PM »

thanks and im working on something like this http://www.kaboodle.com/hi/img/b/0/0/14d/6/AAAAC0ADQp8AAAAAAU1oVA.jpg

but i want to have me and my sisters in it but I understand what u r saying and I have my 1st bangle in the mold hope it comes out right wish me luck and
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