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Topic: The random RESIN question thread!  (Read 292443 times)
Tags for this thread: resin , mold , catalyst , resin_problems  Add new tag
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hello color!
« Reply #1580 on: July 08, 2010 10:41:57 AM »

About the vises - I think I've seen one sold that had rubber grips, but it wasn't worth the extra money (since you can use that extra money to buy yourself some molding compound and make better grips from that). Usually, a vise is not something worth spending a lot of money on, unless you need special features, like being able to tilt your object to a specified angle. Anyway, I use a regular vise padded with scraps of silicone that I have from moldmaking, so I would recommend looking for some scrap rubber, soft if you can find it. However, if the objects you are drilling are flat, hard(er) rubber and many other things should probably work.

Diane - I wanted to add some information to your library Smiley

What you say about polyester resin not curing if it's in contact with air is not true, at least not always. I've used 2 different formulations (gel coat and bonding resin from Douglas & Sturgess) and neither one ended up with a tacky surface. If anything, the finish was harder than than Easy Cast (on both the mold side and the air side). The only problem I had, if you want to call it that, is that both of them dissolved my polystyrene mixing cups, which I use with epoxy with no problems. (However, it took maybe 15 minutes to eat through them to holes, and by that time, there was only residue left in the cups and I didn't end up with a gigantic spill. Actually, the way the cups melted looked pretty cool.) And, ofc, polyester is not something I'd recommend for jewelry because the unbelievably horrid and persistent smell and the associated health effects are just not worth the cost savings.

Also, I was wondering, does anyone know what would give the least flexible result for very thin casts (a couple of mm or less)? Obviously, Envirotex Lite should be better than Easy Cast, but any thoughts besides that?
« Last Edit: July 08, 2010 10:47:31 AM by hello color! » THIS ROCKS   Logged
hello color!
« Reply #1581 on: July 08, 2010 11:02:57 AM »

I don't play with resin or anything but it's always interested me. However the other day something occured to me and I thought maybe I should pass this on to all you resin lovers.

I was taking out my coloured contacts the other day to replace them with a fresh pair... anyone's ever thought about setting those in resin? Obviously ones that have already been used... I think it'll look pretty cool just hanging in the resin. Dunno if the toxicity would break down what the lens is made of.

Just a thought Smiley If anyone can make it work please send me a link! I'd love to see what you come up with  Cheesy

I've actually thought of that, but it's not as easy as it sounds. Since epoxy is inhibited by water, and saline/contact solution is mostly water, the contact has to be dried first. But when it dries, it doesn't stay cup-shaped, and instead, it curls up like crazy. I've tried using cup-shaped supports, and some of the time it worked ok (not perfect, but close enough), but most of them were fail. I might still one day use the ones that came out ok, but I haven't just because it's not really my style, and I was trying to do it mostly just for the hell of it... Still, even after getting the contacts to dry nicely, things can still go wrong because they are so brittle when dry. Anyway, that's just some thoughts.
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« Reply #1582 on: July 09, 2010 02:30:07 AM »

Hello everyone.
This thread si great! I've spent hours on here and learnt loads!

I do have a couple of questions though - sorry if these have already been answered, and I've missed them.

I want to make pendants using silver or pewter bezel cups \9so, not a casting mould).  I'll be putting a printed design at the bottom of the bezel cup, and pouring resin over it so it looks like a glass tile set into a silver pendant.

So, my plan of action is to print the design, cut to size, and seal with decoupage glue or something similar.
Once that's dried, glue it to the bottom of the bezel tray, and cover with a 2-3mm layer of 2-part epoxy resin, and leave to dry for a couple of days.

My questions are:
1. is there a specific brand/type of epoxy resin I should be using? I need it to be completely crystal clear like glass, and I need it to stay in the bezel tray and not fall out.
2. Once the resin has set, do i need to polish it, or does it naturally cure to a high gloss finish?  If so, what should I polish it with?

Again, sorry if these questions have been answered elsewhere. 

Thanks!
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ambersteele
« Reply #1583 on: July 09, 2010 11:31:52 AM »

I'm not sure if this is the place for this post or not but last night I made some resin casts for pendants in a round painter's palette and in a square painter's palette. I wiped the molds with vegetable oil before pouring in the resin and this morning the round molds popped right out but the square ones are stuck in there (yikes!!).
Jenny Smiley

PS - I've read all the resin posts which have been really informative but I couldn't find anything about this particular question Smiley

I know this post was really old, but I've been thinking about using vegetable oil as a release in candy molds (I currently have some that are seriously stuck, but the ones I managed to get out turned out awesome, so I want to keep using them).  My question though, does the vegetable oil effect the clarity and/or smoothness of the resin on the side that it's touching?  Thanks to anyone that can help!
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« Reply #1584 on: July 18, 2010 10:22:25 AM »

First let me send my loving thoughts to you and your family.

I was drawn to this post as I lost my father to murder as well and for some reason needed the same connection as your mother is wanting.

I have kept his hair in hopes of finding a resin artist that can help me with a mourning jewelry peice as well.

I would be so interested to see what you came up with.
In practicing with my own hair I did find that it was much easier to form the hair into the shapes that I wanted by wetting it first and then allowing it to dry in the shape I had set it in.

Much peace to your Mother...my heart goes out to you both....
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JLFB1
« Reply #1585 on: July 19, 2010 11:16:37 AM »

Great thread! I used to live in Australia, where I made lots of resin jewellery with epoxy resin using this clear doming epoxy resin [url]http://www.solidsolutions.com.au/view_products.php?cat=39[/url

I am now living in Canada, and have been trying to find a supplier where I can order bulk epoxy resin. I am used to using a ratio that mixed by weight, but it seems that a lot of the ones here are mixed by volume.

Does anyone know anywhere I can buy epoxy resin (Canadian supplier would be ideal, but American could be OK) in bulk quantities? EasyCast seems to sell in sizes just up to 16oz.
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« Reply #1586 on: July 20, 2010 10:02:49 AM »

I am so sorry to hear.

I would recommend resin molds. Pour them half full of resin and let it start to set up, to where the resin is solidish but tacky, then place the hair, then pour a thin layer of resin to cover it and let that start to set, then fill completely. It will keep the hair from floating around too too much and should help minimize bubbles.

Good luck with everything.
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hello color!
« Reply #1587 on: July 21, 2010 10:36:42 AM »

JLFB, I don't know if this is a good source for large quantities for epoxy in terms of price since I've never needed large quantities, but Douglas & Sturgess has very good prices on polyester resin, which is what I use when I have a larger project. They also have a lot of "accessories" that are hard to find anywhere else, e.g. fillers. You can find other suppliers of bulk epoxy if you use keywords like "fiberglass" or "marine".

I also prefer to measure by weight (don't know how anybody does it by volume!), but you can do that regardless of whether or not that's how it's designed to be used. Specific gravity (density) is always listed on the MSDS. For Easy Cast, resin is 1.15 gm/mL and hardener is 0.972 gm/mL. Just make sure to keep a calculator handy when measuring stuff out in case you add too much of one and need to figure out how much more of the other you need to add Wink

Out of curiousity, what do you make that requires so much resin?
« Last Edit: July 21, 2010 12:39:58 PM by hello color! » THIS ROCKS   Logged
JLFB1
« Reply #1588 on: July 21, 2010 06:56:32 PM »

Thank you, hello color!

I think I might try both the EasyCast and maybe some polyester resin as well to see what I like best.

I am not making large products, but I would like to make lots of jewellery to sell at markets. I had a successful summer with this in Australia and I found it handy having a big cannister of resin that lasted me the whole summer. I just don't want to order lots of small bottles of resin when it might be cheaper to buy a bigger size.

Thanks also for the tip about the weight -it just seems to me that measuring by weight allows you to get a lot more precise.
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PepsiTwist
« Reply #1589 on: July 24, 2010 10:09:02 AM »

I was wondering how you do separate colors in one mold, similar to this:
http://www.etsy.com/listing/42687808/diving-necklace-key-chain-handcrafted?ref=sr_gallery_12&ga_search_query=dive+flag&ga_search_type=handmade&ga_page=&order=&includes[]=tags&includes[]=title

Also if the hole is not already in the mold, how do you put a hole in it?

Thanks!  Grin
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