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Topic: The random RESIN question thread!  (Read 304649 times)
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chica grande mas bonita
« Reply #420 on: June 28, 2007 01:41:59 PM »

I have a dremel what size bit do most use on their pieces?

Where I get my dremel attachments, there was only one pack of small drill bits-- I use the second or third to smallest one.  They dont give me measurements so I couldnt give you a size. It depends on what you will be using the hole you are making for. heavy gauge wire or string, etc.

Also, Is it gonna kick up alot of debris and such? Should I expect this?
It can, yes. I kick up more when I am shaping the outside, but drilling can bring up a bit of dust and it is hazardous, so make sure you do it outside with a mask on. It tends to bother my eyes as well.

and Lastly, Should I use a block of wood under the piece as you normally would when drilling? And if so anything special anyone has learned about that?
If you are drilling through front to back, to make a hole through the horizontal, like to hang a pendant, I would recommend drilling on top of a block. I also make beads that I drill all the way through to thread onto wire, and with those I hold the bead in my fingers and drill halfway through one side, and then drill from the other side. You dont think they will meet, but they do, um most of the time. Also, be careful, I have had beads catch and not just fly through the air, but bread my bit and send that flying through the air. I wear goggles, but mostly because I think they make me look cool.
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« Reply #421 on: June 29, 2007 07:28:00 AM »

Regarding sealing shells - I just made a tray with seashells embedded in the bottom and I didn't seal them first. It turned out great! However, they were store bought shells and not found on the beach shells. If you are using found on the beach shells I would super clean them first and make sure they are completely dried to the bone before sealing them in resin.
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« Reply #422 on: July 07, 2007 04:56:38 PM »

my epoxy resin pieces that seemed to have cured completely are softening in the sun!! what's going on??? AHHH!


- (temporarily panicking dithmer)
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Neigung
« Reply #423 on: July 07, 2007 06:19:47 PM »

Cured resin will do that when it gets warm.  Don't worry about it too much.
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chica grande mas bonita
« Reply #424 on: July 11, 2007 06:49:23 PM »

okay, trying for a step by step for a bangle mold: NOW WITH PICTURES
(again, Sherri Haab has pictures, so you might want to check her out.)
I found a little margarine tub that was pretty close to the size of the bangle. Don't get a very big one, because you will waste silicone rubber. The first thing you do is cut the bottom off the tub.  You will be sticking the bracelet to the underside of the lid, and pouring your silicone into the open bottom. 

To stick your bracelet to the underside of the lid, Haab tells you to get a specialty two sided sticky paper. I didnt want to try to find it, so I laid down a thin layer of polymer clay. The downside to this approach is that you are sinking the bracelet into the clay very slightly to get it to stick, and that changes ever so slightly what that edge will look like when you cast it. Didnt really bother me. The other drawback is if you use old dry clay like I did, it will crumble and you will have to clean it out of your mold when you pull out the casting bracelet.
anyway, I laid down a thin layer of clay and pressed the bracelet in gently. You dont have to really imbed it, but when you pour silicone in, anything buoyant will get pulled to the surface, so make sure it sticks pretty well. Haab also suggests using a ball of clay or something like that in the space in the middle of the bracelet, without touching its sides, to take up space and save you silicone.
mix up a two part pouring (not slip layering) rubber silicone. I found mine at an art store, I haven't seen anything comperable at Michael's or Joanne's- they don't seem to carry it. You do not want a slip cast or paint on latex. you need a two part that you mix and pour, which then cures. If you are buying professional, make sure you dont buy a rigid plastic, you need something rubbery in order to get the bracelet out.
pour over your bracelet, giving about a cm above the top of the bracelet AT LEAST. you dont want anything to tear when you are wrassling it out. let it cure.

once you are sure it is completely cured, flip your mold over and pull the lid off of the margarine container.

 You will have to pry your polymer clay out, as the rubber probably heated up while it was curing enough to mess up the clay.  pop the rubber out of the container. 
Now you might need a friend or nemesis to help you get the bracelet out. Depending on your rubber, you might have to be careful not to tear it, but most kinds you find in art stores is pretty resiliant.  The bracelet shape and all that will make it hard to get out. Just work at it, I guess. lol. good luck with that. there isnt really a release you can use on a pour mold with silicone rubber. Also, keep in mind that if your bracelet has carvings, undercuts, etc, your mold will lock on super strong and it will be even harder to get out.
Once you somehow manage to get it out, Make sure there is no debris inside the mold. Then, go ahead and pour. The surface of your resin will be cloudy, as the rubber latex is a somewhat porous, soft substance, but you can spray it with acrylic spray or resin spray, and it will clear right up.

I am at work, but when I get home I will add a picture of my margarine tub and my rubber mold.
let me know if I was too obtuse....
« Last Edit: July 12, 2007 05:20:02 AM by jMi - Reason: Error, nothing edited! :) » THIS ROCKS   Logged

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« Reply #425 on: July 11, 2007 09:04:42 PM »

great tutorial. Thank you! I just bout sherri haab's bracelet mold and it worked well but she says if you plan to make a bunch of them the mold will not hold up. I want to make my own mold.  What's the silicon mold stuff you used called? I wonder if hobby lobby has something good. I looked at Michael's and Joann's too and didnt see anythin great.

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chica grande mas bonita
« Reply #426 on: July 12, 2007 07:39:00 AM »

I am pretty sure it is smooth on brand-- I got it at an art store, so if you have one of those nearby try that if your local craft store has nothing. Mine never do (Michael's and JoAnne'S)
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« Reply #427 on: July 12, 2007 09:39:12 AM »

What type of paints or glues can be used on resin?  If I cast something clear and want to paint on top of it, what should I use? And if I wanted to glue a magnet to the back of a piece of resin is there a special glue I need to use?  Thanks!!
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« Reply #428 on: July 12, 2007 10:07:09 AM »

I use E6000 glue for magnets. I'm not sure about the paint though.
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glitterkick
« Reply #429 on: July 12, 2007 11:29:58 AM »

What type of paints or glues can be used on resin?  If I cast something clear and want to paint on top of it, what should I use? And if I wanted to glue a magnet to the back of a piece of resin is there a special glue I need to use?  Thanks!!

I use regular acrylic paint - it usually takes two coats though - on my fruit magnets. Then after it is dry I spray the whole piece with a clear acrylic paint. I use the E6000 glue as well for attaching the magnets to the resin piece.
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