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Topic: The random RESIN question thread!  (Read 393562 times)
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Diane B.
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« Reply #1530 on: April 27, 2010 01:08:32 PM »

If you mean that the tape might be too flexible for a wide mold, that might happen (though that volume of resin wouldn't be all that heavy, or the excess could be sanded off later) but you could always tape something stiff behind the tape to reinforce it.

If you mean that the resin might leak out somewhere the uncured resin was touching the tape, that doesn't seem to happen... I know masking tape and duct tape are sticky enough for example, and their other ingredients/components are fine with raw resin.
Take a look at this lesson, for example, even though the mold isn't tilted here:
http://www.ganoksin.com/borisat/nenam/epoxy.htm (scroll halfway down the page to the second lesson called "window of opportunity")

Other things could work too as a "dam", like plasticine clay and perhaps raw polymer clay, etc.

(The angle of tilt could even change for each layer if desired, after each layer has gelled sufficiently.)

Diane B.
« Last Edit: April 27, 2010 01:12:12 PM by Diane B. » THIS ROCKS   Logged

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pops
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« Reply #1531 on: April 28, 2010 05:12:30 AM »

capnhook, i was wondering - is this a pendant with resin 'on top' of a flat glitter background or is it layers of glitter-resin- by which i mean, resin with coloured glitter all the way through?

the only way i can think of to do that would be make up small amount of resin with a coloured glitter throughout and add the next layer when the previous has cured to a certain hardness...

other than that, i'm stumped too! however it was done, tis very pretty! Cheesy
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Diane B.
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« Reply #1532 on: April 28, 2010 08:28:06 AM »

iheartcapnhook, one other thing I thought about for the tape method I mentioned.  

In the linked lesson, he says:
Complete the finishing. Wet sand the epoxy resin on the back of the piece to remove any unwanted texture made by the tape. Wet sanding will give the piece a frosted look.

If there was a "texture" left on the back side of the resin caused by the tape, and if it was a problem visually from the front side of the piece, instead of sanding and buffing to get rid of the texture-cloudiness you could probably just paint on a coating of epoxy resin to fill in the texture and make the surface smooth and even again (and uncloudy it)... you might even be able to do that with a coating of polyurethane instead of epoxy.

Also, epoxy resins will cure completely in the presence of air (polyester resins won't) but I'm not positive that they require air to do that...probably not though.  If they did require air though, the tape might be blocking air getting to the back side, so it might help to remove the tape after all the layers had at least gelled so air could get to the area for a lot of the curing time and create a non-tacky/etc surface?

Diane B.
« Last Edit: April 28, 2010 08:30:37 AM by Diane B. » THIS ROCKS   Logged

POLYMER CLAY "ENCYCLOPEDIA" 
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few of my photos
http://s96.photobucket.com/albums/l163/DianeBB
(had to move them from YahooPhotos, so many now without captions)
Bellazeus
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« Reply #1533 on: April 29, 2010 06:17:37 PM »

Tried Brasso and car polish over the weekend.. neither did anything spectacular for me.
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sandracb
« Reply #1534 on: May 02, 2010 05:00:32 PM »

recoat them in resin is the technique i use now.  They shine very awesome with a coat of resin on top but it takes a long time for them to be cured (about a day and a half to two days)
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iheartcapnhook
« Reply #1535 on: May 03, 2010 02:34:15 PM »

This weekend I played quite a bit with glitter (and made quite a mess!).  I tried pouring half the mold, letting it dry, sprinkling glitter in with tweezers (a MESS and did not make nice piles), pouring a layer on top.  I tried with just a few stripes. Didn't work quite the way I had hoped.

One thought I had was glitter glue?  It would make nice clean lines.  Would it stick to the resin mold?  Would the resin react to the glue base?  Does anyone know?

Oh I am determined to make this work!  I will make a pendant with pink & black stripes if its the last thing I do! Cheesy

Thanks so much for the help and advice.   Smiley
« Last Edit: May 04, 2010 03:07:31 AM by iheartcapnhook » THIS ROCKS   Logged

sandracb
« Reply #1536 on: May 03, 2010 08:18:43 PM »

I had read somewhere that glitter glue doesnt work so hot because of the water thats in the glue, but never personally tried it.  I'd be interested to see if it does work though!
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Bellazeus
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« Reply #1537 on: May 03, 2010 11:51:27 PM »

How do you recoat them with resin ? doesnt it get all over the place? do you dip or brush ? I normally do 3d paperweights etc.. i cant imagine how i would do that without creating a mess?
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Bellazeus
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« Reply #1538 on: May 05, 2010 05:57:46 PM »

I googled the recoating in resin and saw a few tutes.. went ahead and did it..

there is a pro.. and a con..

pro it really does come out majorly shiney!!!

con.. i can see my brush strokes Sad even tho both tutes said that resin is self levelling and would not show up the brush strokes, for some reason mine did.. i dont know if you could get around this by using a foam brush.
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Seriously in awe of the craft stashes that are on this forum.
I bow down to your awesomeness.
sandracb
« Reply #1539 on: May 05, 2010 06:22:35 PM »

Here's how i did it and what i've learned.

1) cover the back of the piece in clear packing tape and cut to the size of the piece.  The reasoning is because resin will not stick to the tape and it will clear off the drip offs when its dry.
2) I've tried dunking pieces in resin and using a foam brush.  I've found when dunking them it goes on too thick and gets very globby.  Using the foam brush really cut down on the thickness of the resin.  Another thing i do is put the piece flat on my hand and use my glove fingertip and dip into the resin and just coat the resin with my gloved hands.

I used a tip from resinobsession.com and created a board full of toothpicks to allow my pieces to dry on.  I learned that they need to be spaced together very close in order for them to stay on top and not fall through.

Maybe i should just make a tutorial video on it? I hope this all makes sense.

Another technique i am trying is using polishing compound as described by a future resin crafter.  It is dialux white polishing compound - got it from riogrande.com   I'll let you guys know how well that works compared to resin dipping.  The downside to resin dipping is it takes several days to get it perfect (1 day for initial dip, 1 day to smooth the outsides and recoat, then 1 more day to coat the bottom of the piece).
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