I learnt to crochet socks a couple of months ago - here are a few of my finished ones. I use a toe up pattern with a short row heel, so there are no seams to sew and just two ends to weave in at the end. They work up fast and are very portable - I don't need stitch markers or a tape measure (just try them on as I go) so just need yarn and hook! I make them in half treble crochet (UK terminology) so that they are nice and stretchy. I actually prefer them to my knit socks.http://static.flickr.com/69/174741972_c08f241918.jpghttp://static.flickr.com/72/170701724_1aea0e0dae.jpg
Tutorial - How to make crochet socks that fit!
(I will use US terminology for the tutorial, as that is probably what most people on this board use)General Tips
I use sock weight yarn, a small hook and a stretchy stitch (half double crochet). I use a lot of negative ease as I like a snug fit (about 1 1/2 inches for circumference and one inch for length. You may want to modify this according to how you like your sock to fit, try it on after you have worked 4 or 5 inches and see!
I have played around with a lot of cuff stitches and have found that front post/ back post double crochet makes a nice stretchy cuff, that doesn't gape.
My first couple of pairs were a bit tight around the instep and also had small holes in this area, I solved both of these problems by picking up a couple of extra stitches (as slip stitches) between the heel and the instep , and then decreasing these stitches a few rows later
Measure your foot circumference (around the ball of your foot) and your foot length(inches)
Find your gauge in the round by crocheting a few rows in half double crochet (HDC) and finding out how many stitches per inch you have. Take one away from this number, and multiply by your foot circumference - this will be the total number of stitches you will be working with for the foot and cuff. I use the same number of stitches, and the same hooks size (2.5mm) no matter which sock yarn I use, and they all fit well, so once you get this bit right, you probably won't have to bother for your next pair (as long as you are using the roughly the same weight yarn)Toe
Make a chain approximately 1.5 inches long, miss one chain, and slip stitch into back loops of the Ch, Ch1
HDC through top loops of starting Ch, 3 HDC (double increase) in Ch1, HDC in slip stitches, double increase in Ch1
Contine working in the round with a double increase at each side of toe until you have the required number of stitchesFoot
Continue working without increasing until your work measures 3 inches less than you foot lengthShort row heel
Work until you are half way along bottom of sock
Flatten sock so that it is flat horizontally, mark the side stitches (I usually don't bother and just eyeball)
Work to marker, Ch1 turn
Work in SC to second marker, Ch1 turnDecreases
Work SC across row leaving last stich unworked (one decrease) Ch1 turn
Contine to decrease in this manner until your heel measures approx 2 inches making sure you have an even number of decreases on each side ( I usually have 6 decreases on each side which look like steps)Increases
Work across in SC to end of row, SC into side of "step", slip stitch into unworked stitch from previous row, turn skip slip stitch, work across in SC
Continue increasing in this manner until you have the same number of stiches as you started with and all steps have been workedCuff
Pick up 2 stitchs by slip stiching in the gap between the heel and the instep, HDC across instep stitches, pick up two stitches in gap on other side of instep, then contine working around cuff in HDC. After you have worked a few rows, decrease extra stitches over 2 rows, continue until jsut less than required height.
Work a few rows of back post/front post double crochet ribbing then fasten off.
This pattern can be used without modification with any stitch for the body and cuff of the sock - just try it on as you go to make sure you have a comfortable fit as different stitches will be more of less stretchy than HDC.