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Topic: goth and zombie crocheted doll fridgies!!  (Read 16013 times)
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craftydame
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« on: July 03, 2006 10:41:47 PM »

i've been wanting to make one of these, but i was having a hard time finding the faces. i had a few i bought years ago, but didn't want to use them up if i couldn't buy more!

plus, the regular doll faces remind me a little too much of my greatgrandmother. not my style.

so i made fimo faces! and as plus, the fimo is much easier to paint than the plastic would have been!

i rolled out the fimo/sculpey/premo (i forget which?) so that it was super thin, sprayed the inside of my doll faces with water, and then gently pressed the clay into all the grooves of the face. i trimmed the edges and gingerly removed the clay. my own doll faces!

i baked them as required, then painted them. i was originally going to make two gothy dolls, but one of the faces got a little distorted while i was removing it from the mold, so i decided it should be a zombie. i'm sure it wasn't that obvious, just a few wrinkles, but i'm a perfectionist.

so here they are!  

first, the gothy doll, complete with little skulls instead of pompoms at the end of the tie-

and a close up, because i wasquite proud of her face-


and then the zombie doll-


i'd like to put a finish on the faces at some point, but i didn't have anything appropriate for the fimo this weekend.

i really fudged the crocheting. i made it once so that i could see how it worked, but it was much much too big because i didn't have any sportweight yarn in the colours i wanted. so i based it on the same concept, but adapted it to be the right size with the thicker yarn. i didn't put the last row of contrast ruffles on the zombie, since i didn't think zombies really liked ruffles. plus, they would have covered up the zombie's brain!

hope you like them!
« Last Edit: June 28, 2010 12:21:33 PM by jungrrl - Reason: fixed a coding issue » THIS ROCKS   Logged

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« Reply #1 on: July 04, 2006 03:07:48 PM »

They're great!!  Making molds (actually"casts" here) really opens up a lot of possibilities for fun  Grin

(did you distort or change the face in any way after removing it, before baking? --I'm guessing not since you used thin clay on the inside of the face, rather than thicker clay on the outside to make a mold first, so probably would have been hard to do that thin).

You should really put these on the new polymer board too, or at least describe them and give a link to this thread!!! 



Diane B.
GlassAttic....polymer clay "encyclopedia" http://glassattic.com/polymer/contents.htm
little bit'o photosharing: http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/dianeatglassattic/my_photos
...check out the 2 NEW polymer clay boards here at craftster:
http://www.craftster.org/forum/index.php?board=238.0
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« Reply #2 on: July 04, 2006 05:05:46 PM »

Oh my gosh! That is too funny! For anyone who doesn't have my book (YET! ha ha) here's the vintage version:



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craftydame
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« Reply #3 on: July 04, 2006 05:17:29 PM »

(did you distort or change the face in any way after removing it, before baking? --I'm guessing not since you used thin clay on the inside of the face, rather than thicker clay on the outside to make a mold first, so probably would have been hard to do that thin).


they were a teensy bit distorted, but it actually worked better. the original faces aren't as ruond as they are oval, so they don't fit into the crocheted part quite as well. the fimo faces are a little flatter, so they became more round and fit really well.

the zombie face was a bit distorted around the nose, i just didn't press the clay firmly enough, but it worked okay for a zombie....

what kind of clay would be softest? i found the clay i used for this to be really hard on my finger joints, my hands were quite sore the next day. but the stuff i used for a doll (that i haven't posted yet, because she still needs clothing) was so much easier to soften, though it seemed more fragile after i baked it. i should haul out my bag of stuff and see which was which.

You should really put these on the new polymer board too, or at least describe them and give a link to this thread!!! 


i don't want to crosspost, but when i finish my doll, i'll post her there and i'll add a link to these. i'm glad you like them!


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« Reply #4 on: July 06, 2006 07:46:34 AM »

Those are so cool and funny! I would never have thought to make a gothic or zombie one lol
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« Reply #5 on: July 06, 2006 05:05:08 PM »

Sorry... just seeing this.

Quote
they were a teensy bit distorted, but it actually worked better....

I should have asked if you distorted them deliberately since that's a technique that's often used on casts from molds while they're still raw (to get lots of variety).  Maybe that's what you were answering though...lol. 

There are several issues here maybe.
 
When you said that the "Fimo faces" were a little flatter so they became more round and fit well, were you talking about clay faces that you knew were the Fimo brand of polymer clay (FimoClassic or FimoSoft), or were you using the word Fimo generically to mean all polymer clay?  The brands of polymer clay can be quite different.

I would expect FimoClassic (or Kato Polyclay) to make the best shapes because they are stiffer after conditioning (softening), although it's possible to make good ones with any brand (particularly if you cool the clay, and put it in the mold thoroughly ...re that, if you're not already, try rolling one end of your smooth ball of clay to taper it to a teardrop, then insert he tip of the teardrop into the deepest or tiniest indention in the mold first --for a face, that's usually the nose).

You were using a thin sheet of clay though which is harder to handle under any conditions.  You might want to try either putting a temporary armature** behind the clay when you put it into the inside of a face like you did so you can keep it's shape more easily while removing and baking, or try making a clay mold of the front of the face then bake it and use that with a blob of clay which you can thin in the mold if you want or again use a removable armature.

**armatures like a ball or other shape of aluminum foil, wad of cotton or polyester batting, wad of tissues or cotton fabric, etc.. . .  you could also use clay itself but use a "release" like ArmorAll or a heavy powdering of cornstarch on the pressed in clay before adding it; when you pull the clay out, the additional clay backing should fall off.
It's always good to cool clay in a mold too (let sit awhile or put in frig or freezer) before trying to remove it if you're having trouble.

Secondly, different brands of polymer clay have different consistencies when raw, and diff. strengths when baked. 
...FimoClassic and Kato Polyclay are the stiffest and most work to condition (though there are tricks that make it pretty easy), but the best to handle after that and produce excellent detail even in warm situations.
...Premo is less stiff when raw, but more heat senstive so can be difficult for those with hot hands or conditions.
...Sculpey III, SuperSculpey and original Sculpey (especially) are soft when raw and need very little extra softening unless the color isn't even, and the new version of FimoSoft is also really soft and goopy. 
The advantages of the first 3 though are that they're strong after baking and better to work with once softened, but the disadvantage is conditioning.  The Sculpeys and new version of FimoSoft are weak after baking in any thin or projecting areas, and less satisfying for working with and getting detail because they are so soft.

For your "doll clay," you may have had SuperSculpey or ProSculpt or Puppenfimo (generally in boxes) which are all flesh-colored (there are other flesh-colored clays that come in small packages).  Those each have their own characteristics too, with SuperSculpey being weak in those thin places.

I have physical problems with my hands and arms and definitely don't want to stress them, so I tend to use Premo most as a good middle of the road clay, but also FC and Kato if I can get relatively fresh stuff (which is softer and fairly easy to condition).  At any rate, when you buy clay in packages, always squeeze the bars from side to side to test them because they can get too hard if they've been exposed to hot trucks or too much ultraviolet light... this is true even within a brand.  Mail ordered clay is usually fresher all the time.

Here are some pages to check out if you want more info on the characteristics of the different clays, info about easiest ways to condition them, and info about making and using polymer molds:

http://www.glassattic.com/polymer/Characteristics.htm
...and this one for clays when used especially for "sculpting"
http://www.glassattic.com/polymer/sculpture.htm

http://www.glassattic.com/polymer/Conditioning.htm (preparing clays)

http://www.glassattic.com/polymer/molds.htm

And here's the page that describes the "distorting" method:
http://www.glassattic.com/polymer/heads_masks.htm


HTH,




Diane B.
GlassAttic....polymer clay "encyclopedia" http://glassattic.com/polymer/contents.htm
little bit'o photosharing: http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/dianeatglassattic/my_photos
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few of my photos
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« Reply #6 on: July 07, 2006 01:14:34 PM »

those are great...I totally love the goth one
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« Reply #7 on: July 11, 2006 03:38:46 PM »

I love the zombie one! That is great!
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« Reply #8 on: July 31, 2006 09:06:49 PM »

OMG I love those!!  Cheesy
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lanfear32
« Reply #9 on: August 29, 2006 06:05:47 AM »

God my daughter would LOVE those...  She loves to craft with me, and we think that the whole resurgence in crafting is awesome because the new stuff is so cool!
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