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161  Re: Making Your Own Corset? in Clothing: Discussion and Questions by Alexus1325 on: January 18, 2010 07:41:48 PM
Smokering: How it's supposed to work out is that once you cinch yourself in, the fabric will be snug all the way around and both lacing bones in the back will be straight up and down with no difference in the distance between them from top to bottom. Hope that makes sense. Anyways, once your boning arrives, put it in your mockup and test out the fit. Once you're cinched in, then you make decisions regarding adjusting the fit.

Alternatively, you can draft the whole thing from scratch using your own measurements. You need to know how far down from the top of your corset your waist is in the front, the side and the back, as well as your waist, underbust, and upper hip measure and how far each measurement is from the others. With a bunch of math you can figure out how to divide it into panels. Let me paint up an example of what it should look like...

You have to add the seam allowances after. I used this method only once, and it turned out great, but I wish I'd make a mock-up first, because I made it too short Tongue Good thing it was only a fashion corset.

Roethke actually has a step-by-step showing this method with lots of construction pictures. Everybody loves pictures!


Best of luck Cheesy
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162  Re: Pattern for a Fleece Earwarmer? in Sewing in General: Discussion and Questions by Alexus1325 on: December 29, 2009 08:53:07 PM
You could actually draft one if you have a measuring tape and some paper Cheesy

Conceptually, an ear-band is a hat without the rounded top. Put a hat on your victim and measure around their head following the line of the bottom of the hat, but holding the measuring tape so that it will pass over the middle of each ear. Divide that number by 2 but DON'T add more for a seam allowance (the band should be slightly smaller than the head so that it stays on), now called measurement A. Draw a line the length of A on a piece of paper.

If you want the kind that are just straight all the way around, measure the height of your victim's ear and add 2 inches (one inch for clearance above and below the ear and one inch for the two seam allowances), measurement B. At each end of line A, draw a line going down that is as long as B. Connect the bottoms of both B lines, and double check that it is also the length of A.

Alternatively, there is a kind of ear-band that is thinner than B, but with a rounded portion directly over the ears that is B. In this case, make line B as long as you want (remember the seam allowances, though). Measure from the middle of the forehead to the middle of the ear, and call this measurement C. On your piece of paper, choose one end to be the front and mark it so you don't forget which one it is. Make a mark that is C from the front. Draw a line down that is B. Connect the three up-down lines with a line that is straight, then curved down to B, then curved up again, and straight.

And because pictures make the world go round:

The red lines represent the additional lines you need to draw for the second kind of earband. The thinner lines represent the seam allowances. I didn't measure anything, so you may not want to use my pic as a template, but rather draft one from scratch.

Fold your fleece in half and pin your now cut-out pattern to it with the FRONT on the fold. Make sure that the stretchiness of the fleece is the same direction as measurement A. Cut two pieces, because one piece is the inside and one the outside (two different colours would make it reversible Cheesy). You'll sew each piece into a ring (correct sides together), and then sew the two rings to eachother along the top edge (correct sides together). Flip it correct-side-out, fold and pin the seam allowances to the inside, pin the two folded parts to eachother, and then sew along the edge about a quarter inch from the edge. You can also sew along the top edge about a quarter inch from the edge, just to "finish" it.

I really hope that all makes sense Cheesy
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163  Ugly Christmas Sweater-Vest: A Collaboration in Winter Holidays by Alexus1325 on: December 18, 2009 10:29:53 PM

My Dad works for an aeronautics company, and his department head decided they'd have an "ugly sweater" contest. He asked me to make him something suitable, but I ran out of time, so Mumsie actually finished it off. I just KNEW what I wanted to do, and was actually inspired by a hideous (but splendid) 80s sweater with leather applique all over the front that I wear, well, constantly. Here it is when I handed it off to Dad to take back home:

My original concept was to have it pooping, but we didn't want to offend anyone's sensibilities, so Dad found a bag full of little multicolour felt balls at the dollar store, along with the flashie LED ring that was altered and attached to the nose. Mumsie wanted Mr. Reindeer to look disturbingly out of his gourd, hence the slavering tongue. She also added the hat and eyeball and finished off the armholes. Turns out my Dad was the only one in his department with the cahones (read: sense of humour) to actually wear an ugly sweater! Apparently, he'd be walking around the hangar and people would chuckle at his slightly demented-looking reindeer, only to burst out in guffaws once he was past them Tongue

Dad's prize? First in line at the buffet lunch Tongue
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164  Ezio Auditore da Firenze: Assassin's Creed 2 Cosplay (DIARY: PICTASTIC) in Costumes: Discussion and Questions by Alexus1325 on: December 04, 2009 10:03:59 PM
-------------(Dec. 5th)------------------


What happened was my buddy Sean fixed my computer (and by fixed, I mean he spent 2 days fiddling, then formatting, then re-installing), so I owe him HUUUUGE. I offered to repay him in kind, that is, with my skill. He was confuzzled as to what my sewing skill could be useful for, so I listed the obvious: buttons, zippers, hemming, blah, blah. Then his face lit up with sudden realization and he frantically Googled an image of Ezio. "Make me THIS!" Of course I'd heard of AC2, what with all the hype. He's going to a New Year's costume party and would also be wearing it to a convention in the spring. And probably forever-more Tongue He's even offered to pay me! I quoted him $200 including materials (2 weeks to realize that was awkwardly worded) and he's totally fine with that! He could always buy this one: http://www.cosplaymagic.com/ascriiezco.html


So here's my planning stage so far. I like to draw everything out so that I know how it's to be constructed, and I gotta say that this is the most complex outfit I've tackled. I've had to take creative license because making a REAL doublet would add several hours of work, and I have to draft it up in the first place (I'll likely use Simplicity 7030 as the basis). I may omit the pazillion metres of ribbon trim, depending on how much $$$ it would come out to (not to mention that attaching all that ribbon CAN be done after the New Year's party, but before the convention, eliminating some of the time crunch).

The under-stuff and the front of the hooded doublet (sorry my notes are mostly illegible, the pix won't post any larger).

The back of the doublet plus the front and back views of the skirt-thingie (I have no idea what you COULD call it Tongue).

The flat-view of the pauldron (and according to a girl who posted her version on DeviantArt, I seem to have it mostly right, construction-wise).

It just so happens that my landlord, whose industrial-sewing-needs shop is below my apartment, offered me suede for the half-cape and leather for the pauldron FREE because I paid my January and February rent today, (he LOVES that I pay my rent in advance). The leather is a little on the pale side, but MEH! IT WAS FREE!

Expect updates as I do stuff. I'll probably start drafting next weekend and begin construction shortly thereafter Cheesy

----------- (Dec. 7)-----------

That belt! AGH! It is functionally nonsensical! I had to squint at low-quality screenshots to figure out what the back part looks like, and thank heavens for *fevereon on DeviantArt and her blogspot page! If it weren't for her, I'd have had no hope in designing it. Mind you, the entire design of the straps just makes me scratch my head. I would have done it differently, but video game designers don't need to understand garment/accessory construction (just look at the pic at the top of this page: notice anything weird about the red stripes???)

I'll likely use some of those awesome leather pieces I have for the belt. The two colours are just a reference for me so that it makes sense to me later. Unless I really do decide to use the suede for the dark parts and the leather for the light parts. Unfortunately, I don't have *fevereon's 1337 skill with resin, so I'll probably make the front part using a quilted technique like I did with my She-Ra headpiece. See her uber-skills here:

I also made arrangements with my friend to do a fitting, probably Thursday or Friday. I found a cool technique for creating a doublet pattern using an old button-down shirt:
Apparently I WON'T have to draft it! Just mostly-draft it Tongue

---------------------(Dec 17)---------------------------

I went over to Sean's on Tuesday night and made the initial fitting shell out of an old short-sleeve button-down. Not a lot of modifications. Cut off the collar and sleeves, took in the waist a smidge, created darts in the back. His girlfriend thought it was all very hilarious and took pictures, none of which I have, unfortunately Tongue Then off to Fabricland for supplies! I still need a few small things, but those can come later.

2 spools of thread
9.1 metres gold ribbon
10 metres red grosgrain ribbon
3.5 metres red poly-cotton broadcloth for lining
3.5 metres gray poly-cotton broadcloth for interlining
3.5 metres white polyester satin, of which I'll be using the back side of the fabric because the only place in town with cotton sateen was closed, and no guarantees that they had it in slightly grayish off-white (hence the gray interlining). We had to buy it that night because I'm now 4 hours away at my boyfriend's for the holiday season. Total cost: $68.28, and not a penny of it was mine Tongue

Sean and I also discussed the construction of various bits. He'll look after turning spring-loaded umbrellas into the hidden blades (he thought that was as ingenious as I thought it was; props to the dude who thought it up, must find the link to share it with Craftsters...), as well as making the belt centrepiece and pauldron slidey-knot-cover-thingies out of cardboard and tinfoil. He will also buy brown pants, the poet shirt, brown boots, and brown belt for across his chest. More to come as the story unfolds...

--------------(Dec. 27)--------------------

HA! Much progress has been made, despite holiday festivities. I got the proof-of-concept/toile/muslin done. Many thanks to my boyfriend for modeling. He puts up with so much craft-craziness from me... There's still some tweaks to be done. I've changed the hood a bit (hopefully no more bunching in the back) and I need to make the triangle beak-thingie on the hood smaller, of all the crazy things. I also worked out some issues in construction-order, so there won't be all that horrid bunching around the yoke on the back.

I also mostly-finished the pauldron and half-cape. The pauldron will be backed with canvas to give it more stability and the half-cape will be lined in red (which I forgot about at the fabric store, so I need more red fabric).

Now all I need to do is prove the feasibility of the... skirt-thingie. Sean doesn't like that I call it a skirt-thingie Tongue And I may begin the doublet tonight. We shall see.
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165  First Plushie: Fish-to-Sushi for Giftmas in Toys, Dolls and Playthings: Completed Projects by Alexus1325 on: November 25, 2009 04:10:09 AM
My boyfriend's family is big on Giftmas and it stresses me right the heck out. Since I don't have a lot of money to buy tons of things for them, I figure one handmade gift = awesome, right? Last year that proved to be a success, so this year needs to be just as good. The only problem? What the heck can I make for his brother that would top last year's Gundam embroidery???

Cruising around Cut Out + Keep, I came across this: http://www.cutoutandkeep.net/projects/fish_to_sushi_plushie

OMG!!!! I had seen it before, but it had become lost in the dustbins of my memory. And since my boyfriend's brother is huge on Japan, I think he'd appreciate the hilarity of it Cheesy

Hand- and machine-sewn out of orange fleece, an orange former-tee-shirt, white jersey and green knit. All the fins are stuffed with polyfil, and the body of the fish and the seaweed are backed with polyester batting. The seaweed and bottom of the sushi are interfaced, and silly me should have interfaced the fish as well.

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166  Pheasants are so pleasant! A skirt for fall. in Clothing: Completed Projects: General by Alexus1325 on: November 21, 2009 07:19:19 PM
Waaaay back in March I got this wicked quilter's cotton for my birthday, courtesy of my boyfriend's mom (the pic is really blown out, the second pic is closest to true-colour). She and I are both crafting fanatics, so she actually took me to this uber-expensive place called The Quilt Barn and bought me TWO metres (OMG yes TWO!) of this awesome pheasant and flower fabric. We were there for well over an hour and I had a hard time choosing my birthday gift Tongue The fabric is super soft and thick, and I knew exactly what I wanted to make with it.

Just after Easter, I cut and basted BurdaStyle's Marie http://www.burdastyle.com/patterns/marie, but with alterations. Two weeks ago I FINALLY finished my fall pheasant skirt, cuz pheasants are seasonally appropriate, dontcha know Wink  The front and the modified waistband are from Marie, but the back is from a pencil skirt pattern from 1992, and I had to cut a good 4 inches off the bottom as well as take it in so that it rested at my ACTUAL waist, not my low-waist. It's also got my second-ever blind hem.

And the whole outfit, for good measure Cheesy Please pardon the wrinkles, this was taken after I'd been at school all day.

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167  SHE-RA! The Princess of POWER! in Halloween Costumes by Alexus1325 on: November 03, 2009 11:54:49 PM
Hope everyone had a happy Hallowe'en!

I happen to idolize strong female fictional characters Tongue My poor Xena Warrior Princess costume has seen at least 7 Hallowe'ens over the last 13 years I've had it, and I REALLY wanted something cool and unique for this year.

Enter a strong, moral, female warrior from an obscure 80s cartoon:



For those of you who are clueless as to who she is, she's He-Man's sister who was kidnapped and raised by Skeletor, except she turned to good after revelations about her past.

First I made a plan:

Then off to Fabricland! White jersey, yellow polyester with gold feather print, gold broadcloth, batting, interfacing, gold cord, gold sparkle ribbon, and two 2" gems came to about $32 Canadian.

The first thing I made (and screwed up) was the head wings. I was soooo proud, I showed the electrician for my building, the secretary in the shop downstairs, my superintendent Tongue I had to remake one of the wings, and the gem was originally silver (had to sandpaper off the backing and paint it red; same with the blue chest gem).

Then I adjusted BurdaStyle's Lydia into a tank top with a pointed front. The applique actually turned out really great and was way easier than I'd feared. The boob wings needed a tack half-way up to keep them from flopping. Notice the awesome feather print? Cheesy

I made an ovoid "circle" skirt for the bottom half and the belt is velcroed at the front of the dress so that it wouldn't shift around. I'm kinda sad I didn't have time to make bracers or spats. I made-do with butchered sandals tied to my feet with the gold cord.

What do you think, was my hair big enough???

Wish I had better pix, but I'm already half in the bag in those last ones and I wasn't about to take my camera to the bar Tongue I'm pretty disappointed that only about 4 people at the bar recognized my character ("No, for the umpteenth time, I'm not Sailor Moon"), so I guess 25 is old??? Which makes me question why 15 year olds are wearing retro 80s t-shirts...

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168  Re: deep deep cowl back halter? in Clothing: Discussion and Questions by Alexus1325 on: September 08, 2009 08:35:18 AM
If you mean what I think you mean, you want to basically have a long slit up the back of a halter top that has a cowl at the lower back, right?

To do that, take the back piece of your pattern. Cut across it at the waist, because when you add the cowl part, it will naturally sit lower than your waist. Now what you do is tape a new piece of paper (nice and wide) to the waist of the bottom piece and tape the bottom piece with it's new attachment to your desk. What you do next is take the corner of the top piece at the side seam, match it to the corner of the bottom piece at the side seam, and tape it in place with a few inches of spread between the centre-back corners. Smooth out the new line into a curve, and when you cut it, only the bottom portion will be aligned with the fold of the fabric.

That's the general outline of how you'd do it. I just extrapolated from the principles used to create a cowl-neckline. You'll need to experiment to get it exactly the way you want it, though.

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169  Re: Random Swap Round 2 - Signups 08/30/09 - 09/13/09 in ARCHIVE OF SWAPS THAT ARE TOTALLY FINISHED by Alexus1325 on: September 05, 2009 12:57:07 PM
Here I sit agonizing if I want to join in or not... I'm about to start my last year of school, so busy busy busy! But seriously, that pancake bunny is classic random Cheesy The bunny is telling me to craft...

I had a "blue" tooth as a kid, too! I fell face-first onto concrete. It turned brown, and didn't fall out til over a year later.

For my randomness, I've chosen Lily Allen wearing Giles Deacon's "Who Killed Bambi?" dress. She's probably the only person who actually bought one. The fashion world was in an uproar for weeks!

The owner of the blog "Who Killed Bambi?" sarcastically featured it:


I don't think she was too impressed with Mr. Deacon's usage of Google.
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170  Re: HOW TO make a standup collar??? in Clothing: Discussion and Questions by Alexus1325 on: September 04, 2009 02:42:52 PM
Maybe a shape like this would work?

Well, except taller. I'm leet with paintbrush Tongue
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