I knitted this pattern recently http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/ginkgo-crescent and I'm positive I worked all the increases right, but instead of being a smooth crescent, it's more like this big dome shape thing, with the cast-on centre being really humped. However, to block it, I need to bend it the other way. The pattern suggests using blocking wire, but I don't have any. I simply can't get it to sit the way I want with pins, it's as if there's too much excess fabric in the centre. My mother is convinced I knitted it wrongly.
Hello knitters! I have a horrible problem - I, for whatever reason, neglected to do a gauge swatch for !three! separate cardigans (separate patterns and yarn weights) that I'm knitting, and I'm now halfway through all of them and I think they're all too small (using recommended needle and yarn size of course.) I've looked at my knitting, and it seems...my gauge is off. With all of them, I have more stitches and rows per square inch than I should. With one of the cardies it's only about three or four stitches and rows off, so I think if I switch needles to a slightly larger size, I might be able to salvage it. One of the other cardies might be Ok, it seems a bit small but I could maybe just make the button band wider(?) (the gauge given in the pattern is specified as "After blocking", which isn't very useful), but I'm most worried about the third cardigan, which is Knitty's Kittiwake. http://knitty.com/ISSUEw12/PATTkittiwake.php Granted, I seem to be getting 20 stitches by four inches, instead of 16, which doesn't seem TOO horrible, but the pieces I've knitted so far really do seem very small. Has anyone knitted the pattern before? It specifies positive ease, and the half-finished sleeve, for instance, does seem to stretch around my wrist, but I have a sneaking feeling that blocking won't do much, and I really should just unravel the piece before I make an even bigger mess of it.
How does one change one's gauge? I didn't think I was a tight knitter, and indeed for several things I bothered to measure gauge for, I got exactly the right gauge, so this is a new one. Do I just go up a size of needles? If you want to, say, get 16 stitches per 4 inches rather than 20, would going up, to, say, a 5.5 mm needle (from a 5mm) work?
In case you're wondering, I'm an...ok knitter - I can do stranded colourwork and cables and lace and in the round just fine, but I've probably got nothing on most of the knitters on the board and lurking about on Ravelry. I really should post some of my knits to give you an idea.
Ok...after seeing the fantastic sweater/jumper knitted on this board by..erm..someone (it had words of a Dorothy Parker poem in it), I wanted to knit a fair isle sweater/jumper in the round, with dk wool. (The reason for DK is because I already have random bits of DK which I need to use up.) The thing is, almost every single pattern for sweaters/jumpers, in the round OR flat that I find is either worsted weight (10 ply) or sport weight (5 ply.) Is 8 ply really unpopular or something? Whyyyy.
Anyway, I found this pattern http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/dances-with-yellow-dk145 but the needle size sounds REALLY tiny for 8 ply. Like...3.25? Seriously? Every single 8 ply thing I've knitted has been at least 3.75 to 4.5. So...can I change the needle size? If I change the needle size to something that isn't so teeny weeny, should I go down several sizes so that I get the gauge right? I'm a pretty Ok knitter (lace shawls, cable jumpers etc), but I've never really gotten to the stage of fiddling massively with patterns or writing my own, so I've been trying to look for just a simple jumper/sweater pattern, in the round, with 8 ply. (Barely anything seems to be in 8 ply. I think it's popular in Australia, but not in America and most of the patterns seem to come from America.) Preferably not using tiny weeny needles. If you can tell me how I would change THIS pattern so that the gauge will still work with bigger needles that'd be great.
If not, I have a pattern, but it's flat knitted. I want to change it to in the round because the fair isle will be easier (i.e. I won't have to remember exactly how I knitted the front so that I can make the back match up at the side seams.) How do I change an in the flat pattern to be in the round? Do I just minus a couple of stitches and then knit the front and the back together in the round and then change to in the flat once I get to the armhole shaping?
Oh dear, I don't think I'm destined for Estonian lace. I should probably stay away from lace in general, actually!
So, this is just a thing which I can't quite work out. The pattern says to work the starter chart, which I did, and didn't seem to have any problems. Then it says to work the yucca chart, and there's a section with the pattern repeat highlighted. Do I just knit that pattern repeat section over and over again for the row, or do I do the whole row, including those extra y/os on the end, which means that I'll have like..two yarn overs in a row and..oh help, my brain. For the first row of the chart I knitted it all the way through and did the repeat, and then knitted it all the way through again and then just the repeated section, but now on the third row of the chart I can't work out how to do it. I started just doing the highlighted pattern repeat section, but it doesn't seem to divide evenly into the number of stitches I have.
With the starter chart, you worked the chart twice on each row, and there's a marker in the middle. With the yucca chart, how many times do you work the chart on each row? Does it increase? What's happening!
I can't see anything terrible happening with my knitting at the moment, but as it's a lace pattern it's not too easy to see until I've knitted myself into a hole. I tried to knit Laminaria and came up with a similar problem - after working all the increases I must have done something wrong because I had no idea why I didn't have enough stitches.
Hey everyone! I'm an internet reviewer, among other things, and I have a few different shows. http://blip.tv/infamoussphere#!page=2 One of them is called "period drama drama", and on that particular show I like to dress in the costume of the period the film is set in. It doesn't have to be 100% accurate, but I generally prefer it to be visibly accurate, and not cheap and nasty looking.
It was a slightly bad creative "rule", in a way, because it means that I have to sew like hell whenever I want to make a new Period Drama Drama (unless I have clothing from that time period just sitting around.) And I would like to do a review of Barry Lyndon. Which means that I now have to make myself a redcoat (huh. Redcoat is also what you call the soldiers themselves. It makes googling hard. Is there a better way to describe the army uniform?)
Now I'm aware that there seem to be a crazy amount of variations in the army uniform (all to do with what regiment etc), but what Barry wears is the fairly "standard' white facings, white turned back tails at the back thing, red waistcoat, etc. Like so. http://i32.tinypic.com/2n6daib.png http://i2.listal.com/image/462824/936full-barry-lyndon-screenshot.jpg I suppose it's sort of like..a coat with a vent in the back with the split parts sort of..buttoned in the middle? And it's sort of..double breasted but the facings are turned back and buttoned on themselves? Sorry, the terminology is really confusing. My basic approach so far will be screen capping lots of images from the movie, and then doing some sketches, and then making a muslin, which I will do, but right now it's all at the nebulous conception phase and I wondered whether anyone had any experience making this kind of uniform stuff, and any tips (like..where does the shoulder seam sit? What's the general shape of the coat? Waist seam? Etc)
Thanks I've found a bit of stuff with googling, but not a tonne, seeing as "Redcoat" is the name of the soldier as well as the garment.
I was given 4 patterns by my grandmother because she was clearing out her stash, one of which was for a shirt with several different options as to cuff and collar finishings. This was all very well but the pattern was neutered and ineffectual, when it came to shirts. I wanted something with a collar stand! With plackets! So I drafted those bits myself, and used some japanese cotton I got cheaply in Thailand.
So that was all very well. This shirt, however, was the test for my really expensive fabric, some fantastic italian cotton. I bought the last of the roll but it was probably only 1.4 metres - not enough for collar and cuffs. So I got some bits of a white Paul Smith shirt I'd unceremoniously hacked up a while ago - the sleeves were still intact, and I Gordon Gekkoed it up.
Incidentally I'd always wanted to do a coloured shirt with white cuffs and collar, but until now I didn't have the excuse!
Close up of the fabric, which I got the last of from a fantastic draper, which unfortunately closed down becuase it apparently wasn't profitable enough anymore. Now all I have in my town are fabric chain stores which generally only have...awful, awful fabric. I'm going to go cry now.
I bought some beautiful print fabric, and it took me a while to decide what I was going to do with it. Luckily some looking through my inspiration folder, some surfing flickr, and a few tutorials helped me decide. First up - a tulip skirt! I only had a scarce metre of this fabric so I didn't have enough for a waistband or pockets. I still love what I've done, and it only took me a morning of sewing time! I drafted the pattern from this really helpful tutorial. http://www.burdastyle.com/techniques/make-a-tulip-skirt-pattern-from-a-pencil-skirt-pattern
Sorry, it's not very easy to pose for self timer in a way that isn't awkward.
The back only looks crooked because I am. As it's a quilting cotton it is a little bit..creasy. a nice close up of the fabric
With the other fabric I had a lot more than I thought I did, about 180cm by 120 cm, when I thought I'd bought some tiny amount. I should have just done a nice simple shirtdress or something, but I did a smocked design with an a-line skirt and a chiffon yoke, inspired by a dress I'd seen with a lace yoke and pleated bodice (sorry, I have no idea where on the internet that was.) Chiffon was so awful to sew it kept distorting all over the place when I cut it! It has a stand-up collar but I did make the top a bit wonky. Oh well.
^ that last photo probably has better colour. The dress has hidden pockets, because although dresses with no pockets is fine when I'm on holiday...I hate not having a pocket for my phone when I'm at university. I might get some more detail shots later, and upload my design sketches for both if anyone's interested. I used this tutorial for the smocking: http://tumblingblocks.net/blog/index.cfm/2008/9/22/Honeycomb-Smocking-Tutorial I warn you..BE VERY CAREFUL to secure your smocking stitches properly. That means knotting on both sides. I thought looping the thread without knotting would work, but whenever I'd put the dress on for a fitting, several smocking stitches would pop out and I'd have to redo them. Oh well! Lesson learnt, and hopefully my next project will be something nice and breezy.
I bought myself some fantastic silk satin in Melbourne for cheap, because it was a remnant. Of course, because it was a remnant it meant that I only got about one metre. I wanted to make a minidress with long cuffed sleeves, but didn't have enough fabric, so I squeezed a shirt out of it. Now what to wear it with?
It's very comfortable. I tried to keep the design fairly simple because the pattern is so insane. I wouldn't recommend sewing with silk satin, it warped all over the table as I was trying to cut it - like cthulhu or something. Does anyone know any tricks to stop it from doing this?
No pattern. I have a shirt pattern I inherited from my grandmother that I was going to use, but then I realised that my bust + hips were a size 12 but my waist was a size 16 in the pattern way to make fun of my complete lack of an hourglass figure! Who even has an hourglass figure anyway? Christina Hendricks and Marilyn Monroe have been just about the only women in history who ever had one. I'll try and tackle that pattern later.
These holidays I'm trying to chew my way through my fabric stash. I have an addiction to buying remnants which means that I have to squeeze garments out of a metre or so of fabric. I was also given silk chiffon by my neighbour, who was a felter and incorporated silk into some of her wraps. Apologies for slightly poor photos, (hopefully I'll be able to get some better ones) but here we go!
3 bits of chartreuse silk, and a few skerricks of blue checkered silk, with metal buttons. The skirt goes to about mid calf
6 different pieces of purple silk chiffon, in 4 different shades. The skirt has 3 layers. Pintucks and metal buttons.
3 remnants of blue striped seersucker - two light blue and one dark blue striped. This dress and the one above have bias binding around the armholes. This one has pearl buttons my neighbour gave me, and a built in tie that I'm not sure if I like. Also this one has pockets, unlike the other 3.
Finally a shirtdress squeezed out of two printed drill remnants, one 1 metre squared and one 1X0.5 metre piece. I screenprinted a design of moustachioed objects, fruit and vegetables which I'd drawn myself. I would have liked to include pockets and longer sleeves and a fuller skirt but I would have needed at least another 50 cm or metre.
Added bonus: I also made a fancy waistcoat last year out of cotton satin printed with those moustache guys too!
Ok so there's this pattern, for the Inga Hat, but in any case, I've just started and it says that to knit the braid around the edge you do this:
Braid (worked over rows 1, 2, and 3 of chart): Row 1: k 1 in MC, k 1 in CC1 Row 2: bring yarns to front of work, *p 1 in MC, cross strand of CC1 over strand just worked, p 1 in CC1, cross MC over CC* ; Repeat from * to * across row. Row 3: Starting with MC, work as for Row 2, but cross strand just worked UNDER strand to be worked.
Ok...what is with the instructions for row three? If I cross the strand I just worked under the strand to be worked, isn't that exactly the same as crossing the strand TO be worked OVER the strand that I've just worked? I don't get it! I have no idea how these directions aren't just the same thing phrased differently! Am I looping the "strand just worked" around the strand to be worked and doubling it back? HALP.