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11  CLOTHING / Costumes: Discussion and Questions / Redcoat/late 1700s English army uniform help? on: April 28, 2012 05:29:54 AM
Hey everyone! I'm an internet reviewer, among other things, and I have a few different shows. http://blip.tv/infamoussphere#!page=2 One of them is called "period drama drama", and on that particular show I like to dress in the costume of the period the film is set in. It doesn't have to be 100% accurate, but I generally prefer it to be visibly accurate, and not cheap and nasty looking.

It was a slightly bad creative "rule", in a way, because it means that I have to sew like hell whenever I want to make a new Period Drama Drama (unless I have clothing from that time period just sitting around.) And I would like to do a review of Barry Lyndon. Which means that I now have to make myself a redcoat (huh. Redcoat is also what you call the soldiers themselves. It makes googling hard. Is there a better way to describe the army uniform?)

Now I'm aware that there seem to be a crazy amount of variations in the army uniform (all to do with what regiment etc), but what Barry wears is the fairly "standard' white facings, white turned back tails at the back thing, red waistcoat, etc. Like so. http://i32.tinypic.com/2n6daib.png
http://i2.listal.com/image/462824/936full-barry-lyndon-screenshot.jpg
I suppose it's sort of like..a coat with a vent in the back with the split parts sort of..buttoned in the middle? And it's sort of..double breasted but the facings are turned back and buttoned on themselves? Sorry, the terminology is really confusing. My basic approach so far will be screen capping lots of images from the movie, and then doing some sketches, and then making a muslin, which I will do, but right now it's all at the nebulous conception phase and I wondered whether anyone had any experience making this kind of uniform stuff, and any tips (like..where does the shoulder seam sit? What's the general shape of the coat? Waist seam? Etc)

Thanks Smiley I've found a bit of stuff with googling, but not a tonne, seeing as "Redcoat" is the name of the soldier as well as the garment.
12  CLOTHING / Clothing: Completed Projects: General / Re: I am Gordon Gekko - two shirts - french cuffs, contrasting collars! on: July 24, 2011 05:27:34 AM
I edited the post - hopefully now you can see the first shirt!

No, the second shirt has cuffs I nicked from a Paul Smith shirt which I picked up at the thrift store for $8 a few years ago, but the collar I long ago used on some failed project (well not failed but not that good) so I couldn't transplant the collar. The collar is made out of the rest of the sleeve fabric.
13  CLOTHING / Clothing: Completed Projects: General / I am Gordon Gekko - two shirts - french cuffs, contrasting collars! on: July 24, 2011 03:00:24 AM
I was given 4 patterns by my grandmother because she was clearing out her stash, one of which was for a shirt with several different options as to cuff and collar finishings. This was all very well but the pattern was neutered and ineffectual, when it came to shirts. I wanted something with a collar stand! With plackets! So I drafted those bits myself, and used some japanese cotton I got cheaply in Thailand.

So that was all very well. This shirt, however, was the test for my really expensive fabric, some fantastic italian cotton. I bought the last of the roll but it was probably only 1.4 metres - not enough for collar and cuffs. So I got some bits of a white Paul Smith shirt I'd unceremoniously hacked up a while ago - the sleeves were still intact, and I Gordon Gekkoed it up.

Incidentally I'd always wanted to do a coloured shirt with white cuffs and collar, but until now I didn't have the excuse!

Close up of the fabric, which I got the last of from a fantastic draper, which unfortunately closed down becuase it apparently wasn't profitable enough anymore. Now all I have in my town are fabric chain stores which generally only have...awful, awful fabric. I'm going to go cry now.
14  CLOTHING / Clothing: Completed Projects: General / Re: universe skirt on: June 12, 2011 04:58:34 PM
Well Cervy should be a good painter because as far as I know she's an honours painting student. Hello, fellow visual arts student! I'm in printmedia third year and I see one of your picnic trees when I cycle to uni.

The skirt looks rad by the way. I haven't tried freehand painting on a garment since I was in year 8 and I was a terrible painter.
15  CLOTHING / Clothing: Completed Projects: General / Floral voile and chiffon smocked dress, and japanese print tulip skirt! on: February 28, 2011 01:25:49 AM
I bought some beautiful print fabric, and it took me a while to decide what I was going to do with it. Luckily some looking through my inspiration folder, some surfing flickr, and a few tutorials helped me decide.
First up - a tulip skirt! I only had a scarce metre of this fabric so I didn't have enough for a waistband or pockets. I still love what I've done, and it only took me a morning of sewing time! I drafted the pattern from this really helpful tutorial. http://www.burdastyle.com/techniques/make-a-tulip-skirt-pattern-from-a-pencil-skirt-pattern

Sorry, it's not very easy to pose for self timer in a way that isn't awkward.

The back only looks crooked because I am. As it's a quilting cotton it is a little bit..creasy.
a nice close up of the fabric Smiley

With the other fabric I had a lot more than I thought I did, about 180cm by 120 cm, when I thought I'd bought some tiny amount. I should have just done a nice simple shirtdress or something, but I did a smocked design with an a-line skirt and a chiffon yoke, inspired by a dress I'd seen with a lace yoke and pleated bodice (sorry, I have no idea where on the internet that was.) Chiffon was so awful to sew Sad it kept distorting all over the place when I cut it! It has a stand-up collar but I did make the top a bit wonky. Oh well.


^ that last photo probably has better colour.
The dress has hidden pockets, because although dresses with no pockets is fine when I'm on holiday...I hate not having a pocket for my phone when I'm at university.
I might get some more detail shots later, and upload my design sketches for both if anyone's interested.
I used this tutorial for the smocking:
 http://tumblingblocks.net/blog/index.cfm/2008/9/22/Honeycomb-Smocking-Tutorial
I warn you..BE VERY CAREFUL to secure your smocking stitches properly. That means knotting on both sides. I thought looping the thread without knotting would work, but whenever I'd put the dress on for a fitting, several smocking stitches would pop out and I'd have to redo them. Oh well! Lesson learnt, and hopefully my next project will be something nice and breezy.
16  CLOTHING / Clothing: Completed Projects: General / psychedelic satin shirt WILL SUCK YOUR EYES INTO A VORTEX on: February 10, 2011 02:51:00 AM
I bought myself some fantastic silk satin in Melbourne for cheap, because it was a remnant. Of course, because it was a remnant it meant that I only got about one metre. I wanted to make a minidress with long cuffed sleeves, but didn't have enough fabric, so I squeezed a shirt out of it. Now what to wear it with?



It's very comfortable. I tried to keep the design fairly simple because the pattern is so insane.
I wouldn't recommend sewing with silk satin, it warped all over the table as I was trying to cut it - like cthulhu or something. Does anyone know any tricks to stop it from doing this?

No pattern. I have a shirt pattern I inherited from my grandmother that I was going to use, but then I realised that my bust + hips were a size 12 but my waist was a size 16 in the pattern Sad way to make fun of my complete lack of an hourglass figure! Who even has an hourglass figure anyway? Christina Hendricks and Marilyn Monroe have been just about the only women in history who ever had one. I'll try and tackle that pattern later.
17  CLOTHING / Clothing: Completed Projects: General / 4 dresses - seersucker, silk, scalloped, shirtdress and screenprinting! on: December 14, 2010 05:47:15 PM

These holidays I'm trying to chew my way through my fabric stash. I have an addiction to buying remnants which means that I have to squeeze garments out of a metre or so of fabric. I was also given silk chiffon by my neighbour, who was a felter and incorporated silk into some of her wraps.
Apologies for slightly poor photos, (hopefully I'll be able to get some better ones) but here we go!


3 bits of chartreuse silk, and a few skerricks of blue checkered silk, with metal buttons. The skirt goes to about mid calf


6 different pieces of purple silk chiffon, in 4 different shades. The skirt has 3 layers. Pintucks and metal buttons.



3 remnants of blue striped seersucker - two light blue and one dark blue striped. This dress and the one above have bias binding around the armholes. This one has pearl buttons my neighbour gave me, and a built in tie that I'm not sure if I like. Also this one has pockets, unlike the other 3.


Finally a shirtdress squeezed out of two printed drill remnants, one 1 metre squared and one 1X0.5 metre piece. I screenprinted a design of moustachioed objects, fruit and vegetables which I'd drawn myself. I would have liked to include pockets and longer sleeves and a fuller skirt but I would have needed at least another 50 cm or metre.

The back

Added bonus: I also made a fancy waistcoat last year out of cotton satin printed with those moustache guys too!


If you'd like to see the moustaches in greater detail, they're here. http://www.louisagiffard.com/blogitem.pl?id=70

Hope you like it!
18  SEWING IN GENERAL / Sewing in General: Discussion and Questions / Re: What to do with this fabric? (add yours!) on: November 09, 2010 03:36:45 AM
Ok I'd photograph it but it's a bit of a pain at the moment + it's very dark and the photos won't come out nicely. Basically I have a LOT of bits of silk chiffon, mainly in chartreuse green, dark purple, navy, black, bark brown, tiny bit of aqua blue. Most of the colours are all in similar shades but none of the pieces are very big - they average about 50 cm by a metre. I'm not sure if I can squeeze much in the way of clothing out of that, and I only really sew clothing. The thing is I'm TERRIFIED of sewing silk chiffon..I'll have to line it and I've never sewn silk before...what would you suggest? Maybe...of each colour I have about...3 50 cm by a metre pieces at the most.
19  KNITTING / Knitting: Discussion and Questions / Confusing braid knitting instructions on: August 27, 2010 03:08:32 AM
Ok so there's this pattern, for the Inga Hat, but in any case, I've just started and it says that to knit the braid around the edge you do this:

Braid (worked over rows 1, 2, and 3 of
chart):
Row 1: k 1 in MC, k 1 in CC1
Row 2: bring yarns to front of work, *p 1 in
     MC, cross strand of CC1 over strand just
     worked, p 1 in CC1, cross MC over CC* ;
     Repeat from * to * across row.
Row 3: Starting with MC, work as for Row 
      2, but cross strand just worked UNDER 
      strand to be worked.

Ok...what is with the instructions for row three? If I cross the strand I just worked under the strand to be worked, isn't that exactly the same as crossing the strand TO be worked OVER the strand that I've just worked? I don't get it! I have no idea how these directions aren't just the same thing phrased differently! Am I looping the "strand just worked" around the strand to be worked and doubling it back? HALP.
20  KNITTING / Knitting: Discussion and Questions / Owl cable hat - adult size? on: August 27, 2010 12:33:05 AM
So I looked at this pattern: http://comfortwool.blogspot.com/2010/04/owl-cable-hat.html and it appears to be in newborn size. Not cool. I was born 19 years ago, how can I make it big enough to fit me? How much do you reckon I'd have to increase it?

BTW I have a fat head - 22 inches :p
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