So I went on this crazy quest last night to convert a pattern I found in Vogue's Stitchionary and I found the following words to be quite usefull and want to share it all with you
found on: socknitters Forum
Taken verbatum from the Second Treasury of Knitting Patterns by Barbara Walker:
Directions for pattern stitches almost always are given in terms of straight knitting - that is, for working back and fourth on single-pointed needles. But if you want to use any particular pattern stitch for an article knitted in rounds-such as a sock, a skirt, a seamless sweater or a tubular dress-it is an easy matter to convert the pattern rows into rounds. There are only two major stpet to this process.
The first step is to omit the edge stitches. Most patterns have extra stitches at the beginning and end of each row, for finishing off the sides of a straight-knit piece. These are the "plus" stitches in "Multiple of___plus____". In circular knitting, you do not want to interrupt the continuious spiral of rounds with extra stitches that contribute nothing to the development of the pattern. So the number of stitches in a round should be mutiple required for the pattern only-plus none. For example, if a pattern takes a multiple of 10 stitches plus 3, you cast on a multiple of 10 stitches and forget the extra 3. Pattern rounds are worked from the directions given after the asterisk, ignoring what comes before it. Likewise, the ending material, if any, that follows "rep from * " is ignored. This is a simple matter when the pattern has the same number of edge stitches on every row.
But what if the edge stitches vary in number? Perhaps you want to use a pattern in which you see "k2" before the asterisk in one right-side row, and "k7" before the asterisk in the next right-side row. Clearly, it will throw your pattern out of kilter if you omit the 5 extra stitches and begin your next "right-side" round at the asterisk. So you must subract the same "k2" as before, and begin your round with "k5" --ie., the stitches left over after the same 2 edge stitches are removed. If you are in doubt about where the actual pattern starts and finishes, you can chart one or two repeats of the pattern on graph paper, including both edges, then draw a verticle line down each side of the actual pattern repeat to slice off stitches that are not needed. In this way it is easy to see just where to begin and end each round. Of course if you are working on a series of panels, this problem will not exist because there are no edge stitches to worry about.
The second step is to convert wrong-side rows into right-side rows. You are always on the right side of the fabric in circular knitting, so the wrong-side rows must be worked inside-out. There are different ways of doing this, depending on the type of pattern you are using.
In the first place, all wrong-side knit stitches must be worked as purl stitches, and vice versa. Since a purl stitch is only a backward knit stitch, it follows that the purl side of a stitch must be on the outside of the fabric if the wrong side is knit. Conversely, the knit side of the stitch must show if the wrong side is purled.
When using slip-stitch patterns, the wrong-side "with yarn in front" and "with yarn in back" must be reversed. If a wrong-side row calls for a stitch to be slipped with yarn in front, then that strand of yarn is to cross the stitch on the wrong side, where it will not show. Obviously this means slipping the same stitch with yarn in back when you are working in rounds. If a wrong-side stitch should be slipped with yarn in back in flat knitting, then in circular knitting it must be slipped with yarn in front.
The easiest patten to convert is a bisymmetrical one; that is, a pattern in which the right hand edge of the row is the same as the left hand edge, but in reverse. When rows become rounds, they all go from right to left, with none returning from left to right. So in a bisymmetrical pattern, you can read the wrong side rows just as they are given, from the beginning to the end, reversing knits and purls and other pattern operations as required. But if the pattern is not bisymmetrical, instead, going off center in some way, then all wrong-side rows must be read backward, from the end to the beginning. Remember that a wrong-side row in flat knitting works from left to right (looking at it from the right side of the fabric), wereas your "wrong-side" round progresses from right to left. Unless you are very experienced, or the pattern is very simple, it is not advisable to try reading these rows straight off from the end of the row to the beginning. It is too easy to miss things when you are reading this way. A better method it to re-write the pattern for yourself on a seperate piece of paper, turning the wrong-side rows around as you write them. Then you can work from these revised set of directions with much less likelihood of mistakes.
Most patterns are very easily converted to circular knitting. A cable pattern in which the wrong-side rows call for "knit all knit sts and purl all purl sts" is very simple; you still do exactly that on every alternate round. A lace pattern in which all wrong-side rows are purled is very easy, too; you just knit (instead of purl) the alternate rounds. Those laces that have yarn-overs and decreases on both sides of the fabric are even easier; most of them were intended for circular knitting in the first place. "P2 tog", being a right-slanting decrease on the right side, is the same thing as "k2tog", and is so worked. "P2 tog-b" similarily converts to "ssk"--a left-slanting decrease. In conformity with the rule of reading wrong-side rows backward, the yarn-over-decrease unit that reads "yo, p2 tog" on the wrong side is worked in a round as "k2tog, yo". In the same way "p2 tog-b, yo" becomes "yo, ssk".
In circular knitting you will have some kind of marker on the needle to tell you where to finish one round and begin the next one. This can be a commercial ring marker, a safety pin, or a little hoop of sewing thread. It is carried right along with the knittng, being slipped from the left needle point to the right needle point each time you come around to it again and begin the next round. Sometimes the novice knitter will be using a pattern that travels diagonally, and will be working cheerfully along until she comes to the point where the diagonal pattern line crosses the marker; then she will panic. Here are two stitches that must be knitted togeather, and the marker is squarely in between them! What to do? And to which round does the decrease belong--the round just finished or the round just started?
What to do is easy. Slip one or the other of the two stitches temporarily in order to release the marker, take it off the needle, and replace it one stitch over to the left or to the right so the two stitches can be worked togeather as required. If the working unit is "k2 tog, yo", for instance, and the marker is between the two stitches, you take it off, knit two togeather, put it back, then work the yo. This replaces the marker in exactly the same spot were it was before. If the two stitches are to be twisted or cabled, then you remover the marker one stitch away from its place, work the twist or cross, and continue with the next round, not forgetting to move the marker back again to its original place the next time you come around to it. Once the diagonal pattern has crossed the marker, it belongs to the round where it is now, even though the action of crossing is may have taken place on the other side of the marker.
I have bitten off more than I can chew! I'm using Romni Wool's(lys) Angora Silk on 3.5mm and have knitted thus far. I'm not sure if you can tell by the photo but the black rows slowly increase at the wrist from 49 stitches to 60
Here is what I want to do but not completely sure how.
1. set up the flat piece on a couple of dpns and make the rest of the glove in the round.
To do this I need to figure out a) how many stitches in to make a thumb gusset b) how many stitches per finger c) how much more I need to increase d) keep the argyle centered
2. add a triangular hole on the top of mitt like so, again keeping the argyle centered so the seam is at the back. (thanks to www.drgirlfriend.com for the original pic)
flat to in the round? triangle hole? thumb gusset? i must be crazy.