We're having a vintage/art deco inspired wedding. Colors are black and white with peacock-y blues and accents of silver. We plan to employ black and white damask patterns/fabric (making my own damask table runners, for instance). Centerpieces will be in vintage milk glass vessels (varying -- I have a huge collection now!), surrounded by candles inside vintage cut glass wine glasses/goblets/punch glasses/etc (we'll either use tealights, or I'll pour my own candles into the glasses).
We'd also like to incorporate peacock feathers into a few places. But not too much that it looks tacky or overdone! So far, I've purchased sandalwood fans for the ceremony (to be placed on each chair), and plan to dangle a peacock feather eye and a tag with our monogram from the little hook on the fans. I'm also considering incorporating a real feather into our invitations somehow. Also, I'm considering tucking a small feather/eye into the napkin at each place setting.
I need help coming up with other ideas... thoughts?
The only other thing I thought of was making a display out of feathers that looks like the fanned-out feathers on a real peacock, and using that to attach our escort cards. But I haven't figured out how to really execute that, so ideas there would be greatly appreciated too!
This pattern is way cute! And so incredibly simple. (Thanks for the tutorial!) I just whipped one up to match the Chelsea bag I made yesterday. I'm making another in the large floral fabric (on the outside of the bag), but I'm going to embellish it with sequins, so it'll take me a bit longer.
I had wanted to buy this Amy Butler pattern for ages, and finally found a super price on Ebay. I used some home dec fabric from Joann's. I'll definitely make it again, although next time I'll probably put some binding around the inside edges of the handles (when you turn the fabric in to make the handles, it leaves these little fibers sticking out from the raw edges.) Also, the reversible/lining piece gathered a little when I sewed it to the exterior. So, next time I'll be more mindful of that. And, next time I might stick little magnets on the inside, above the handle hole, to allow it to close shut. Otherwise, it was a very easy pattern to make.
Here's the finished product, turned right-side and inside out.
Actually, it will wrap funny as a rectangle. Years ago my mom showed me how to make a wrap around skirt without a pattern. I still have it... And it was super easy to make.
I used a newspaper to cut out a pattern, so that I could cut out the fabric. The wrap skirt consists of 3 isosceles trapezoids (wait, what?! I thought I'd never use geometry in real life!... It just means that the two non-parallel sides are the same length, and have the same sized angles to the two parallel sides... see here for an example of what one looks like http://mathworld.wolfram.com/IsoscelesTrapezoid.html)
Use a measuring tape to measure around your waist/hips where you want the skirt to hit. Figure out how big around your hip/waist is at that point, and then add half of the number to your measurement. So, if your measurement around the hip/waist is 36, add 18 to it, to get 54 (feel free to fudge around with the numbers a bit to make the part that wraps over wider or narrower, as you see fit.) Tack on another 3 inches for seam allowances (1/2 inch seam allowances). So, now you'd have 57.
Calculate 40% of your hip/waist number. In this case, 57 x .4 = 23 (rounded up from 22.8.. just round to the nearest whole number) Then figure 30% of the hip/waist number. So, 57 x .3 = 17. (rounded down from 17.1)
Decide how long you want your skirt to be, and then tack on another 1.5" for the top and the hem. Let's say we want it to be 18" long. So, our total measurement should be 19.5.
You'll want to make three, equally sized trapezoids with 17 inches on the top, and 23" on the bottom (or whatever numbers you came up with). (Remember, you want the trapezoid to be symmetrical, so that if you folded it in half, the two non parallel sides would match... the easiest way to do it is to draw a rectangle on the newspaper that is 17" by 19.5" (or the shorter, top of the trapezoid, by the length of the piece). Then subtract the number for the shorter side of the trapezoid from the larger side (23-17=6). Extend the bottom part of the rectangle by 3 inches on either side (half of the difference between the top and the bottom). Then, draw an angled line connecting the end of the 17" line to the end of the 23" line, on both sides. You should now have a trapezoid that looks like the one in the link up above.
Here is the backside of my skirt, so you can see (ignore the extremely crappy stitching. This thing was horribly put together, mostly by hand...)
Make three of these with the newspaper, that are all of equal size. Lay these out on your fabric, and cut the fabric out.
You'll assemble the pieces so that all three are lined up next to each other, except the trapezoid in the middle will be upside down (so the longer end is on top, and shorter end on the bottom). You should find that this gives you a really, really long trapezoid.
Like this: (Ignore my pile of shoes, and messy carpet!)
Next, stitch the pieces together, allowing a 1/2" seam allowance.
Hem in the sides and bottom, again allowing 1/2" seam allowances.
Now all you have left is the top. Hem over 1" of fabric, but make sure that you leave enough space to put a ribbon through, to tie it closed.
Once the top is stitched down, thread a long piece of ribbon (2.5 times the width of the top of the skirt, at least) through the top hem.
Wrap around your waist, and enjoy!
(Crappy picture of me, with the skirt thrown over a pair of jeans... I'm sure your final product will be much better than mine was... keep in mind it was one of my first sewing projects)
Of course, you can adjust it however you like to suit your tastes. You can make it so that the end of your finished skirt has straight edges, instead of slanted ones. You can make it longer, or shorter. You can work it so it's wider at the bottom. You can make it longer (try adding more trapezoids for a skirt that wraps around more than once).
I hope this was clear. If you have any questions, feel free to ask.
I just received my second package from my SC. Since tomorrow is my birthday, it was an extra special treat! She sent me the following two lovely pillows, made from a vintage fabric. They'll go great with my decor!
I took a picture of one on the front, and the other from the back. The front of the other is a little different, but from the same fabric. (Ignore the ugly office chair.)
I'm going to make the roomy rounder bag, with the fabric below. The grey is a thick and heavy upholstry fabric, which should hold up well to how much abuse my purses usually take. And the purple satin adds a soft, feminine touch to the roughness of the grey fabric.
I'm thinking about embellishing it with either some kind of embroidery on the bag, or maybe adding a magnetic snap closure with a purple silk flower (or maybe even a purple flower made out of ties, like the one another craftster made).
Last night, while watching TV I decided to make a mug cozy. While regular beer cozies, and coffee cup cozies are just knitted tubes, this had to be a little special because of the handle on the mug. I spent only about an hour making this up. It's fast, fun, and can use up small amounts of scrap yarn!
I used some DK weight scrap yarn I had, and a pair of size 4 needles (what was recommended on the ball). You can use any yarn you like.
1. Go into your stash and dig through the avalanche of yarn until you find something that tickles your fancy. You won't need a lot of yarn. I had a ball that was hand wound, and was about the size of a tennis ball. I used maybe half of that.
2. Pick a pair of needles that seems right for that type of yarn. You don't want anything too big, because you want the final product to be cushy, not holey and thin.
3. Make a swatch! I know, normally you skip this, right? But this time you really should make one. Nothing huge, and nothing fancy. And you can cheat, like I usually do, by making a swatch, and either not binding off at all, or not completely binding off (and not breaking the yarn from the ball), so when you're done with your measurements you can rip the yarn out and use it in the pattern. Your swatch doesn't have to be very big. Just large enough for you to know how many stitches and rows you get per inch with the particular yarn and size of needles you chose. Once you've knitted a small swatch, use a ruler (or a knitting gauge checker) to count how many stitches (horizontal) fit within one inch. Then count how many rows (vertical) fit in one inch. Write down these numbers.
4. Measure your mug. Mine was about 10" around. Most mugs should be about the same size. But, if you have a particularly small or large mug, swap the 10" for your mug circumfrence. Also, measure how tall it is, and how long and wide the handle is. My mug was about 3 1/4 inches tall. The handle was 2 3/4 inches long, and 1/2 inch wide.
5. Now for a little math. First, you'll want to figure out how many stitches to cast on. Take the number of stitches you got to the inch (in my case, I got 6 st/inch) and multiply it by 10" (or whatever the size of your mug is). This gives you 60 stitches, which is how many you should cast on (if your yarn is like mine). Then, multiply the number of rows/inch from your swatch by the height of your mug. In my case I got 9 rows/inch. So, I multiplied 9 rows x 3.25 inches, which equaled about 29 rows. You can also just eyeball the height as you go along by measuring your progress up against a mug.
6. Cast on the number of stitches you calculated (i.e. 60 in my case).
7. K2P2 for about a 1/4 of an inch (in my case, that was about 3 rows).
8. Bind off about 1/2" worth of stitches at the beginning of the next row. (in my case I bound off 4 stitches -- I kept the number a multiple of two, since I was working in a K2P2 rib, so I didn't end up with any single purl or knit rows.) K2P2 until the end of the row, in pattern.
9. K2P2 for about 2 3/4 inches (or until you have a "gap" about the length of the handle) You should have a piece of fabric a couple of inches long, with a small notch that sticks out at one side, on the bottom.
10. Cast on 4 stitches (or the same number of stitches you binded off earlier). This is best done at the end of a row.
11. K2P2 for about another 1/4 of an inch, including the bind off row.
12. Bind off in pattern (meaning K2P2). Be sure not to bind off too tightly, as you need some "stretch" in the final piece to pull it over the mug.
13. You should have a rectangle with two notches sticking out on the top and bottom edge of one side. Using the yarn tail, stitch the notch to the other end of the rectangle. Then, using the other tail attached to the other notch, seam that to the other side of the rectangle.
14. Weave in your ends.
You should now have a tube with a rectangle "cut-out," running vertically in one section, big enough to slip the handle of the mug through.
Long directions (I'm a rather verbose person...), but easy and quick pattern to make. And it's perfect for using up little bits of leftover yarn!
I figured, hey, that looks easy! So, I decided to give it a whirl.
However, like the perfectly round record bowl, it's not as simple as it looks. After 45 minutes of melting, shaping, melting, shaping, melting, shaping, I came up with this. It's not perfect, and I'm sure somebody here can do a far better job than I can, but I give up (for now at least)!
Some tips: I used a box to fold the record across to try to get a sharp line. However, the area with the label on it is harder to bend than the rest of the record, so getting a crisp line is a bit of a pain. Also, I tried to fold it originally like it is on the homeandplanet.com site, but I couldn't get it to come out the same. I didn't have so much excess record at the bottom to make the nice folded feet. Maybe I just didn't try hard enough...
I may go back and do a little spot touch ups just to make it look better (I like to hold the edge I need to fix near the heating element in my stove, until it gets soft enough to manipulate).