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11  KNITTING / Knitting: Completed Projects / Another Doctor Who Scarf on: January 16, 2013 02:24:10 PM
But this one is for *me*!  Grin

I'm participating in the Harry Potter Knit/Crochet House Cup on Ravelry, and this term, my goal is to see how much yardage I can use up.  So, I made myself a Doctor Who scarf... in 16 days.  Woot!



Action shot:


I think it makes me look shorter... Tongue
12  KNITTING / Knitting: Completed Projects / Loom Knit Slippers on: January 05, 2013 08:53:03 AM
My feet were cold, so I made myself some slippers!



They worked up pretty quickly - about an hour each, maybe.  I used Patons Melody in Peacock and Mango colours, adding up to about 102 yards all together.

I used the smallest Knifty Knitter loom in the round loom set (the blue one):

4" before folding the cuff
4 rounds before the heel (don't cut the yarn)
Follow the heel shown in this video: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bJ77ub0FRas
4" from heel to toe
4 rounds for toe
drawstring to close

(Note: my feet are huge - size 11 womens.  They measure about 10.5" along the bottom, and I made the slippers to be about 9" along the bottom so they'd be a bit tighter (as the loom makes them pretty wide.  Keen observers will notice that the video for the heel is actually for a Christmas stocking Tongue)

On a lark I decided to reverse the colour scheme... because I'm not weird enough, apparently. ^_^  I've been experimenting with colour lately, so I think I might make a bunch more of these... they were quite fun to make!

ETA: I made a second pair of slippers using the same pattern.  I'm calling these my Matchy-Matchy slippers. Tongue
13  CROCHET / Crochet: Completed Projects / Rainbow Ruffle Shawl - or an actual reason to use ruffle yarns :P on: October 26, 2012 12:01:07 PM
Surely by now you've all seen that ruffle yarn that the knitters have been playing with.  It's apparently a little-known fact that one can crochet with it (despite my best efforts...).

I have made several of these scarves (for some reason... they're really not my style).  And while I'll agree that the process of making them is quick, I'm still not really a fan.

The other day, however, I came across a pattern that, if you're like me, I think will change your mind about this crazy yarn.

It's called the Kelp Forest Shawlette and it uses the ruffle yarn in a rather interesting way.  It takes advantage of the net-like nature of the yarn to create an easy lace.

This pattern is also kind of neat because it can be both knit and crocheted with identical results (and I have to say, if you do both crafts, use a crochet hook - it's easier).



And an action shot:


This shawl was made with two balls of Premier Yarns Starbella in the Fly A Kite colourway and a 5mm hook.
14  CROCHET / Crochet: Completed Projects / Green Winter Set on: September 16, 2012 09:06:40 AM
I just finished making this winter accessories set for charity.  (It's my DADA homework in the Harry Potter game on Ravelry ^_-)

First, an action shot:


I used a J/10/6mm double-ended hook and Bernat Satin in Lemongrass and Silk colours... just over a ball of each.

These worked up so quickly - I'm pretty happy about that!  I made the hat on Thursday afternoon, then started the scarf on my way to work.  I put the scarf down to work on something else, then picked it back up again for something to work on on the train to my crochet guild meeting on Saturday and finished the scarf at the meeting itself.  I started the mittens when I got home from guild and just had the ends to weave in on one of them this morning. 


More pics:

Hat:


Scarf:


Mittens:



(As an aside: this "quick insert photos" thing is fantastic!  I can't wait to use it for my next tutorial!)
15  CROCHET / Crochet: Discussion and Questions / Tunisian Crochet - getting started and Simple Stitch - tutorial on: August 13, 2012 11:48:40 AM
This tutorial focuses on the Tunisian Simple stitch, but it also serves as an introduction to Tunisian crochet.  If you've never done Tunisian crochet before, this is a good place to start.

For the best results when doing Tunisian crochet, you need a special hook called an "afghan hook".  You can also use a double ended hook (and ignore one of the ends), or a cabled hook.  The important thing is that the hook be the same size and shape after the head - so, no thumb rest, and no fancy handles.  It's also important, if you're making something large, to have some kind of stopper on the end to keep the loops from sliding off.  Afghan hooks and most cabled hooks come with a stopper.  When I use a double ended hook for this I usually wrap an elastic band around the unused head.

Also, you need to use a bigger hook than you normally would for the yarn you're using.  I suggest going up two sizes.  For this yarn, I normally use a 5mm hook.  When using it for Tunisian crochet, I use a 6mm hook.  You'll want to experiment - using an even larger hook can take care of curling problems, but can also result in a lacier fabric.

Let's get started!

As with a lot of crochet techniques, start with a base chain:



Insert the hook in the second chain from the hook (I like to go into the back bump - it makes the bottom of the piece look nicer)


Yarn over:


Pull through and add that loop to your hook:


Insert the hook into the next chain, yarn over, and add that loop to your hook.  Keep going until you have done this with every stitch:


Note: I started with 10 chains, and I now have 10 loops on my hook - the number of loops matches the number of chains.

Now it's time to work the loops off of the hook.  Start by yarning over:


And pull through one loop:


Yarn over


And pull through two loops:


Repeat: *yarn over, pull through two loops* until there is only one loop left on the hook


The first row is done!  This is always how the first row is done in Tunisian crochet.  What forms this row into the desired stitch is how you work into it on the next row.

The Tunisian Simple stitch is usually the first one you learn.  There's a reason why it's called that... it's certainly the easiest one to describe!

To do the second rows (and all subsequent rows), you start by inserting the hook, from right to left, behind the second vertical bar:


Yarn over:


and pull that loop onto the hook:


Repeat this process by inserting the hook behind the next vertical bar, and pulling that loop onto the hook until you have only one vertical bar left, the one at the very end.  You *can* insert the hook the same way you have been so far, but for a nicer left side edge, you can insert the hook in a special way for the last stitch:


It's a bit tricky to see in that picture, but where you insert the hook is immediately to the right of the end vertical bar, and to the left of a little vertical section nearest the hook in the picture.  You insert the hook from front to back through the fabric, leaving two vertical bars on one side of the hook:

and lift that loop onto the hook.

Any way you slice it, when you're done, you'll have the same number of loops on your hook as stitches you started with:


And then work them off as you did before: yarn over and pull through one loop, then *yarn over, pull through two loops* over and over until you only have one loop left on the hook.

Continue adding rows in this manner until you are satisfied with the length of the project.  It should look something like this:


You may notice that the last row you make seems a bit lacy, or hole-y.  This is normal.  When you finish a Tunisian piece, you need to slip stitch across the top to close this up. 

It is important to note that because, as mentioned earlier, the row above a row is what gives it its definition, that when you slip stitch to end a piece, you need to insert the hook in the manner of the stitch you are creating.  In this example we are doing the Tunisian Simple stitch, and so we will always insert the hook from right to left behind the vertical bars. 

In pictures:
Insert the hook behind the next vertical bar and yarn over:


Pull through (including through the loop on the hook) :


Repeat for each stitch: insert the hook, yarn over, pull through both loops (slip stitch) until you reach the end.


Cut the yarn and pull it through the last loop, and you're done!

As you can see, this swatch is curling a bit.  This is normal.  The Tunisian Simple stitch is slightly bigger on the back than it is on the front - it's not as big a difference as with the Tunisian Knit stitch, though.



16  CROCHET / Crochet: Discussion and Questions / Tunisian Purl Stitch - tutorial on: August 13, 2012 09:49:22 AM
I've been playing around with Tunisian crochet and have found that my favourite stitch, so far, is the Tunisian purl stitch.  It just looks really neat (and it doesn't seem to curl like the Tunisian Simple Stitch and Tunisian Knit Stitch do).

Here's how I do it:

Start by bringing the yarn in front of the hook:


Then insert the hook into the next vertical bar (just as you would for the simple stitch):


With the thumb of your left hand, hold the working yarn down:


Yarn over by bringing the hook in front of the yarn, then under and behind it:


Start the pull through. When you get to this point, let go with your left thumb:

This part takes good timing.  Let go too soon and it's really hard to pull the hook through.  Let go too late and you end up with a bigger loop on your hook than you intended, and it makes your gauge go all wacky.

Finish pulling through to add the loop to your hook:


This fabric was made by alternating two rows of Tunisian Simple Stitch and two rows of Tunisian Purl Stitch:

17  KNITTING / Knitting: Completed Projects / Gryffindor Scarf on: August 08, 2012 11:29:25 AM
I originally learned to knit with the goal of fixing a crochet problem I was having (how to make crochet entrelac look more like knit entrelac).  I made a bunch of swatches where I did increases, decreases, cables, colour changes, you name it.

When it was time to try my first actual knit project I went with... a Doctor Who scarf, which many of you may recognize as being entirely knit stitches worked in rows. So, not the best use of my new skills (though, very, very cool).

Here is my second knit project:


Another scarf!  Once again, only knit stitches, though in the round this time.

I used Caron Simply Soft and four 5mm DPN's. It measures 4'8" long and 5" wide

I made this for my niece who is dressing up as Hermione Granger for Halloween this year.  Now I just have to figure out how to make a convincing Crookshanks...

And no... I haven't fixed the crochet problem yet. Alas.
18  CROCHET / Crochet: Completed Projects / Dishclothpalooza II [Lots of pics] on: August 06, 2012 05:41:14 PM


As a thank you to my co-workers for promoting my crochet classes (and jokingly as a bribe to keep doing so ^_-) I made them some dishcloths.

We have a lot of employees, so I'm not sure how many I'll need, but I'm hoping that 40 will cover most of them.  I'm working tomorrow, so I'm going to count the people on the schedule and see if I need to make any more.

I actually started making these a while ago (my first post was here).  I decided to post this separately (even though some of the same dishcloths are in the "all together" shots) because I made some changes on some of the new ones, like this one:


More details below.

So on Saturday morning, this is what I had:

(On the right: 19 finished cloths. Top left: yarn for the rest. Bottom left: progress made Friday evening and Saturday morning.)

Here's the latest 21:


And here are all 40 together:


All 40 stacked up:



Changes to the pattern:

Basically, the pattern works in short row wedges, where your rows have stitches numbering: 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15.

The changes I made were to the order of those rows.  In this pic you can see the original one on the left, and the one on the right went: 2, 4, 6, 8, 10, 12, 14, 15, 13, 11, 9, 7, 5, 3


As much as I like the spiral in the first, I do enjoy the lack of it in the new version.  And the middle doesn't tend to poke out like in the original, either.

Here it is in some self-striping yarn:


And in variegated yarn:

(And I didn't notice until I uploaded the pic, the one on the right has seven wedges instead of six. I wish I could say that was the only time that happened... oh well, it'll still wash dishes!)

This one has the changed pattern outlined above on the left and a second changed pattern on the right:


The one on the right is the same cloth as at the beginning of the thread.  In this one I went: 3, 5, 7, 9, 11, 13, 15, 2, 4, 6, 8, 10, 12, 14. (Though, the next one I do like this, I'm going to start with the evens instead of the odds).


I... I think I might be done making dishcloths for a while. Tongue

ETA: here's the link to the original pattern:  http://1craftyboy.wordpress.com/2007/12/27/tunisian-short-row-dishcloth/
19  FIBER ARTS / Weaving: Completed Projects / plaid - first attempt on: July 29, 2012 12:44:31 PM
I was thinking about turning this into a bag, but it turns out that you're supposed to do the hemstitching before you remove the project from the loom.  Alas.  Next time!

So this is... I don't know... a very small table runner maybe. ^_^



Or a narrow place mat?

Close-up:


And my selvedge is looking better!


For this one I used Bernat Waverly... which I think might be too stretchy for weaving... it was really tricky to maintain any kind of even tension.
20  FIBER ARTS / Weaving: Discussion and Questions / Finishing on: July 29, 2012 11:41:48 AM
I've made a second thing on my Cricket Loom (I tried out plaid this time) and don't want a fringe, but I can't figure out how to get rid of it at the top and bottom.

Is there a resource list somewhere that I'm missing?  Every Google search I try thinks I want "loom knitting", probably because that's the only kind of loom I've looked up before this weekend. *sigh*

ETA: after some more searching I finally came across the term "hemstitching" which answered my question.  It seems that since I've cut the project off the loom I may be stuck with the fringe.  Oh well! Next time!
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