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21  MISCELLANEOUS TOPICS / Discussion and Questions / Re: You know you're a Craftster when... (part THREE!) on: February 04, 2014 01:57:24 PM
When it's a common sight at your house to find you in the kitchen wearing a breathing mask, protective goggles and clothing, engaging in yet another mad-craftster experiment.
22  MISCELLANEOUS TOPICS / Discussion and Questions / Re: Mold making with Great Stuff! foam? on: February 04, 2014 01:49:31 PM
Great stuff sticks to EVERYTHING. I would be afraid that the original would be permanently encased and removing that stuff when it is dry or wet is pretty hellish (I have so rubber gloves with Great stuff permanently attached to them). I could see it maybe used as a support shell around another more flexible mold, keeping in mind that in large quantities Great stuff has some shrinkage issues too.

If you are not going to cast something that doesn't heat up when it cures (some plastics and resins get super warm), then you could probably a mold (a two pieces ... not sure it would work as a brush-on) using gelatin, glycerin and sorbitol. There are lots of tutorials out there on how to cast FX prosthetics using the stuff but I think it can work as a mold material.

The tricky part can be to find sorbitol but what I've used in the past is maple flavoured syrup that they sell for diabetic people (see the drugstore area of Walmart or maybe even your local grocery). If you want super dense gelatin at the end, you can reduce the syrup to increase the concentration of sorbitol in it. Then follow any number of directions online on mixing it up. What you will get will have the consistency of balistic gel when it is cured, but when it is hot it is very pourable. It would work well for two parts molds or press molds. And once you are done, you can re-melt your mold and do something else with it. Technically, you could also eat it ... since all the ingredients are edible Tongue
23  MISCELLANEOUS TOPICS / Discussion and Questions / Hand Rotocasting Advice on: February 04, 2014 01:40:44 PM
Has anybody tried to rotocast without a machine? In yet another larp prop project, I want to create a hollow bodied alien to stick blinking lights in it. But I am having a hard time getting even coverage. Problem is, when I get close to my pour holes (which are big because they were the support pillars for the sculpture when I was making it (I didn't want to bake it in order to be able to recuperate my clay), I can't get the urethane to go in the right place without things pouring out.

Here you can see the results of my first test for the body (legs, wings and paint job will come later). As a concept, I think it has the potential to works but my technique was obviously flawed. The tail ended up with way too much resin, I had pooling problem on one side and the middle section had missing coverage.


I know now that I should have done several layers instead of just one. But I'm wondering if it's ok to plug the pour holes? If it matters, I'm using Task 16, cast in a rubber mold supported by plasti paste mother mold. I'm a bit afraid that gasses might build up (or it could just be me being paranoid). Maybe plastic wrap with tiny holes in it?

Also, has anybody tried to stick two pieces of fully cured urethane together. I know there are some specialized products out there, but I'd rather not pay $30 to end up with a gallon of glue. Would run of the mill polyurethane glue (from the home hardware store) also work? This way I could create "patches" and glue the critter shut once I've put my electronics inside.
24  MISCELLANEOUS TOPICS / Completed Projects / Dissectable Alien Larvae (somewhat gory) on: January 26, 2014 09:33:52 AM
A test run for yet another larp prop concept. It's a larvae from where the players must extract a small pocket filled with something that is to be used as an ingredient in a chemistry experiment.

The larvae is made by roto-casting Task 16 inside a mold made with Rebound 25 and Plasti-Paste II. Task 16 stays fairly flexible after curing.

The body cavity is hollow and filled with blood (coloured gel)

And "organs" can be pulled out from there, which is where the players will find the little pouch they need.

25  MISCELLANEOUS TOPICS / Completed Projects / Re: Plaster Cupcake Prop! on: January 10, 2014 09:57:12 PM
Very nice Smiley Though it makes me hungry now.  Wink
26  MISCELLANEOUS TOPICS / Completed Projects / Re: Winifred Sanderson's Spellbook on: January 10, 2014 09:54:48 PM
Very cool. How did you do the stitching? Did you actually stitch the cover with string?
27  MISCELLANEOUS TOPICS / Completed Projects / Re: Mummified Hand on: January 10, 2014 09:52:41 PM
Thank you. I can assure you it's quite safe. My friends sometimes us it as a head scratcher Tongue. I'm trying to improve the "aging" of the things I make. Using clay mask dust really simplifies things.
28  MISCELLANEOUS TOPICS / Completed Projects / Re: Finger Pen on: January 10, 2014 09:49:48 PM
Thank you.  Smiley Hopefully the recipient character is slightly horrified by it.
29  MISCELLANEOUS TOPICS / Completed Projects / Re: Forgotten Familiar on: January 10, 2014 09:46:22 PM
You might want to try a product called Testors Dullcote if you are having trouble getting the matte finish you want.

Strangely I've had a heck of a time trying to find this. Can't seem to find it in Ottawa. Though I suppose maybe miniatures online stores may have it. But I'm still trying to find it.
30  MISCELLANEOUS TOPICS / Completed Projects / Mummified Hand on: January 03, 2014 05:29:06 PM
Inspired by Delta Green's D-Stacks Artefacts: "Purchased by an expedition in the T'aasii N'aajer in North Africa from a local Berber tribe leader, this odd mummified hand belongs to a creature known to the tribe as a "Selaama" or Son of the Desert. It is a dried sinewy piece of a forearm and hand whose fingers end in long bone talons. One finger is missing all musculature and skin. Apparently the natural heat and dryness of the desert mummified the hand."

Corpsing done entirely in paper mch and acrylics with a good layer of clay dust. The box is a cheap dollar store purchase with wood dye and foam and fabric inserts and I also used rusting chemicals to age the hardware.
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