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1  SEWING IN GENERAL / Sewing in General: Discussion and Questions / Re: Strange Request re: interfacing on: December 30, 2005 12:11:06 AM
Thanks!

I was going to make an oven mitt with a more decorative fabric (backed with interfacing) on the cuff, so I just wanted to make sure it wouldn't catch on fire too severely. Melting shouldn't be that much of a problem though.
2  SEWING IN GENERAL / Sewing in General: Discussion and Questions / Re: Strange Request re: interfacing on: December 29, 2005 08:35:38 AM
Of course I would have done it myself, but I don't have any.

...nor have I ever used any.. yet. And I just wanted to know if it would work for what I have in mind before I take the 40 min trek to the nearest fabric store.

3  SEWING IN GENERAL / Sewing in General: Discussion and Questions / Strange Request re: interfacing on: December 28, 2005 09:32:02 PM
Anyone have a general idea as to how flammable the stuff is?

I mean, when held to an open flame will it burst into flames, or just smoulder and melt?
4  PAPER CRAFTS, SCRAPBOOKING & ATCs (ARTIST TRADING CARDS) / Paper Crafts: Discussion and Questions / Re: Can I salvage this? on: December 27, 2005 04:39:52 PM
Not wanting to be a bearer of bad news, but...

I'd find a way to preserve what you have now.
If the pages are falling out of their bindings, that means that the signatures are falling apart; the tape holding the text block together isn't flexible anymore and cracking... Unless someone has some real experience restoring/mending books, it's probably a lost cause.

So how about thinking of ways of keeping what you have now safe?

If you deliberately cut out all your treasured pages...You could probably
a) find a binder, fill it with those plastic pocket inserts and display those there, though finding a smaller (say A5 size) binder with similar sized sheets may be difficult.
b) mount them into a photo album/sketchbook
5  PAPER CRAFTS, SCRAPBOOKING & ATCs (ARTIST TRADING CARDS) / Paper Crafts: Completed Projects: General / Re: Simple Mini Journals on: December 27, 2005 09:44:45 AM
I haven't made paper since mid-elementary school 10 years ago, but from what I remember, you want something with more... structure than nylon pantyhose.
Pulp is pretty heavy stuff when wet, and pantyhose are very stretchy -- it would end up sagging, and the holes are so tiny that I think they wouldn't let that much water through.

Try going to a hardware store and finding that flexible mesh used as window screens (I think it comes in either plastic/nylon or metal...) Even the metal ones shouldn't rust, since they're used outdoors and I've yet to see a rusty screen door.
6  PAPER CRAFTS, SCRAPBOOKING & ATCs (ARTIST TRADING CARDS) / Paper Crafts: Discussion and Questions / Re: one-sided paper book ideas? on: December 27, 2005 09:39:57 AM
You might want to look into this thread: Whole Page Bookbinding

Basically you make the book block by glueing pages together at the edges, if you fold your pages all the same way with the white parts inside, and the text outside, you end up sticking the printed sides together, leaving only the empty ones showing.

7  SEWING IN GENERAL / Sewing in General: Discussion and Questions / Re: Interfacing and pins on: December 18, 2005 04:03:18 PM
I wouldn't worry about the fabric too much for the blocking board.
(p.s. that would be a board to pin out (wet) knitted items on so that they dry in a specific shape)

I'd probably just worry more about what to make the board out of, so you don't wear many holes into that... Fabric's the easy part, you could always just staple on a new sheet of fabric maybe once a year.
8  CLOTHING / Clothing: Discussion and Questions / Re: Making a Lab Coat? on: December 18, 2005 04:00:41 PM
I was thinking about the materials, though according to 2-3 lab manuals I've had, none of them actually specify anything about the resistivity (fire, acid, spills...) of the material.

These are for mostly biology/microbiology labs, so I think washability ends up being more of a factor.
One lab book even goes so far to suggest a 100% cotton lab coat, which is far more flammable than say a cotton/poly blend.

I've found a pretty decent pattern online, I just hope I can get my hands on it in person.
McCalls 4877
9  CLOTHING / Clothing: Discussion and Questions / Making a Lab Coat? on: December 17, 2005 01:02:02 PM
I've been stuck in a lab lots this year (about 4-5 hours a week in the term I just finished, and about another 7-8hours a week next term), and I've realized that I'm fed up with my lab coat.

The pockets are awkwardly placed; the buttons only close the lab coat up to my sternum; the sleeves are 4-5 inches too long...

So I'm trying to think of ways to sew myself a new one. I've got... basic sewing skills, so this should be doable.

Any idea where to get started?
I was thinking of picking up a pattern for a simple dress shirt, then lengthening it and adding some pockets. Also just thinking of not having typical shirt cuffs with buttons, but instead, just hem the ends so they're still loose and maneuverable in.
10  KNITTING / Knitting: Discussion and Questions / Re: Sweater theory- sleeves on: December 15, 2005 04:10:46 PM
There is no such thing as a magical number of "decrease every x rows". Why? Because yarn knits at different gauges.
If you're working in sock weight yarn, you may find that for sleeve cap shaping (for inset sleeves) that you have to decrease more than 2 stitches in a row, or have to work around having to sometimes decrease every 2 rows and sometimes every 3 rows.
If you're working at 3 sts/inch, well, decreasing is going to have a much larger impact on the shaping of the piece, so you end up decreases less.

Best way to design a sleeve?
Figure out what kind you want. Raglan, dolman, set in, etc etc...
Read the knitty articles about how those sleeves are shaped to set up the cap shaping bit.

For the rest of the sleeve, it depends on personal preference. I have some sweaters knit with no sleeve shaping up until the sleeve cap. They're comfortable, wide, sleeves with big cuffs. If you want something form fitting, measure your own arms, figure out how many stitches at multiple points (wrist, forearm, elbow, bicep...) would be right for you, and decrease/increase accordingly.
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