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31  CLOTHING / Clothing Sewalongs / Re: I <3 Gibbous Altered Fashions sew-along! on: July 09, 2012 04:41:30 AM
I have a question for those of you who have completed a Gibbous top! I've looked through ALL of the pages, and you guys mention that the fabric tends to shrink a LOT due to the layers. The trouble is, I want to make a Gibbous-style trench coat from scratch (which is intimidating enough, as I have very basic sewing skills!). I plan on creating the garment first, and then applying all of the interesting bits when it is completed. Trouble is, I don't know what size I should make it! I wear a size 2-3 normally, but I don't know whether I should make it equivalent to a size 4, a size 6, or even larger!

So my question is: roughly how much shrinkage did your projects undergo? I know that it all depends on how much you sew to your outfit, but I'm hoping that I can get a few different answers based on your personal experiences, so I can try to aim accordingly!

Thank you sooooo much for any help you might be able to give! Smiley

Hmmmmmm this is a toughie. If it were me, I would be tempted to create my textured fabric first, with laces and silks and all sorts of stuff, THEN cut out my pattern pieces from it and sew the trench coat together in my usual size, from here I'd then add the larger embillishments such as buttons and trinkets but hand stitch them as I'd have more control over shrinkage.

When using a machine and covering something in tonnes and tonnes of stitches, that's when it shrinks. If you're hand sewing you will have far more control over it Smiley

However, if you want to go down the make first, embellish later route, I would go up at least two sizes. Hell, if it gets too small you could always cut a slit in it and add lacing like a corset, which looks amazing on this style! It's also easy to add panels if it's a tad tight without it looking like it was an accident Cheesy

Hope this helps somewhat?
32  CLOTHING / Clothing: Completed Projects: Reconstructed / TUTORIAL - Old Vest top to Tiered Maxi Dress on: June 11, 2012 05:38:54 AM
I come across problem after problem when looking for the perfect maxi dress. Infact, I came across SO many problems in the shops this year I decided it would probably be for the best if I just made my own. After browsing online for a tutorial of some sort to help me out a little I couldn't find what I was looking for so I decided to shoot a step-by-step for anyone else wanting to take this on and I hope this helps others looking for the same or a similar kind of thing!

Now then, this is an absolutely HUGE image heavy post so I have cut a few images out to make it a bit more load-friendly! FYI, I'm copying my entire tute over from my blog because I know you crafty lot will want to sink your teeth into this. The weather in the UK right now is rather questionable but I hope the sun is shining elsewhere so others can get some use out of this!

In this tutorial I'm going to show you how to make a super simple tiered maxi dress with minimal effort and potentially zero spend-out! If you use my tutorial I would LOVE to see your results and will be happy to post links on my blog post if you're flaunting it!


Materials:

   
  • Vest top or other for your bodice
        Fabric for the skirt - Don't forget to wash new fabrics to allow for shrinkage BEFORE sewing!
        Thread
        Scissors
        Sewing Machine
        Tape measure
        Patience

1 - Find your perfect bodice and skirt fabric combo.

For the bodice I'm using an old non-stretch cotton vest top that I picked up for 4 from a local charity shop. I love that it has adjustable straps and a cute mixture of prints. If you can't find anything suitable, have a rake through your wardrobe for an old top or dress that you can use. You want something that fits comfortably and isn't too tight. A little too big is fine, if it's too small you can always add panels from your skirt off-cuts to open it out a bit.
For the skirt I'm using shop bought fabrics for the sake of this tutorial but old bed sheets will work even better and I plan on making more of these maxi's using my ever-growing stash of old linen sheets and the like. This could also be an amazing way to use up remnants you have squirrelled away by patchworking them together into your tiers.



2 - Decide where your skirt will start.
Put your top on and find where you want your skirt to start, I want my bodice to come to somewhere between the under bust and waist, this is roughly 6 inches down from the top centerfront point so I take it off and mark with a pin. At this point it's useful to take into consideration how you will get your dress on and off. I'm making mine so I can slip in to it so as long as I can get the top on when it's all buttoned up to the point where the skirt starts (this will be the narrowest part of the dress), it's all good (scribbling notes and illustrations down on paper as you go REALLY helps for this project).
Lay your bodice down flat and measure horizontally at the point where your skirt will start. Mine is 16 inches. Make a note of this measurement, we'll call it "Waist". cut 0.5 inches lower from this point, this will be your seam allowance.



3 - Measure for your skirt length.
Next we want to see how long our skirt needs to be. Measure from the "Waist" measurement (whilst wearing your top to be extra-accurate!) right down to the floor and make a note of this. Mine was around 40 inches. We'll call this measurement "Skirt Length".

4 - Divide up your skirt.
If you haven't already, you need to decide how many tiers you want in your skirt. I'm going for three. Bare in mind that the more tiers you have, the more fabric will be needed and the opening at the bottom will be REALLY wide if you have lots of tiers. I've divided my "Skirt Length" into three different measurements. There's no particular science to this but I wanted the tiers to get longer as they go down. These sections will be numbered from top to bottom "Tier 1", "Tier 2" and "Tier 3".
"Tier 1" will be 12 inches long, "Tier 2" will be 13 inches long and "Tier 3" will be 15 inches long.
Now's a good time to choose which order to put your fabrics!


5 -  Measure for your gathers!
First of all to clear up any confusion, I will be working on the front and back of my skirt separately and then sewing the sides up before attaching the whole thing to the bodice. You can work in tubes of fabric if you like but the thought of gathering THAT MUCH fabric in one go with one line of thread scared me so I'm working each tier in halves (front half, back half).
OK here's where it gets a bit tricky for those not too good at mathematics and such like me - hopefully I've done the hard work for you.

Each tier will be 1.5x wider than the tier above, then gathered down to the measurement of the tier above and then sewn to one another.
Remember that "Waist" measurement we noted down? Mine was 16 inches. "Tier 1" needs to be 1.5x wider than this: 16X1.5=24. "Tier 2" will be 1.5x wider than "Tier 1": 24X1.5=36. "Tier 3" needs to be 1.5x wider that "Tier 2": 36X1.5=54.

Taking the measurements above and the ones in section 4 into account, I've added 0.5 inch around each tier for seam allowance and 1.5 inches onto the bottom of "Tier 3" for the hem, I've calculated the tiers as follows (including seam allowance):
Tier 1 = 25X13
Tier 2 = 37X14
Tier 3 = 55X17

Cut two of each tier giving you 6 pieces in total. This will be your skirt and the hard part done! WELL DONE FOR GETTING THIS FAR! Here's reference for what your tiers should look like!


6 - Gather those gathers!
Time to gather up all that pretty fabric! I'm not sure about you, but ruffles and gathers are the BANE OF MY LIFE. I can never get them right and when I do they come loose before I've had a chance to sew it all down!
I began this monster task using my gathering foot, which only ever seems to work when I'm practicing as you'll see from the image below (ALWAYS PRACTICE ON A SCRAP FIRST!).


After gathering a couple of tiers I soon reverted back to my standard foot and did it the easy way instead. If you don't have a gathering foot or you do but it's rubbish like mine don't panic, just use your standard machine foot and lower your thread tension to around 2, sew a line of long stitches and once you're done, pull on your bobbin thread to gather as much as you need.

We're starting with "Tier 3" which is the bottom tier. sew a line of gather stitches along the long top close to the edge and remove from your machine (see how my gather foot didn't want to gather? Typical!).


Pull the bobbin thread and adjust your gathers until your 55 inches of fabric is down to 37 inches, matching the ungathered width of "Tier 2".


Press the gathers down. At this point I overlocked to keep my gathers extra-secure but it's not necessary so don't worry if you don't have an overlocker.


With right sides together, pin and sew the top gathered edge of "Tier 3" to the bottom edge of "Tier 2" with a 0.5 inch seam allowance.



Next, gather the top of "Tier 2" in the same way you've just done, but this time you want to gather down to 25 inches so it matches up with the bottom of "Tier 1". Press. Again, with right sides together, pin and sew the top gathered edge of "Tier 2" to the bottom of "Tier 1".


Lastly, gather the top of "Tier 1" down to 17 inches. Press. Repeat all the steps in section 6 to complete the other half of your skirt.

7 - Complete your skirt.
Next we're going to sew the skirt together! I overlocked each seam again because I'm fussy like that and it looks nice and tidy.

Press all your seams up. Grab your front and back sections, place right sides together, line them up and pin each side. Sew both sides from top to bottom or bottom to top with a 0.5 inch seam allowance. I overlocked the edges afterwards but again it doesn't matter if you don't have one. If you're worried about your seams you could always zigzag over them.




8 - Attaching your skirt to the bodice.
So very close to finishing, now to attach the skirt to the bodice! With your skirt still inside-out, slip your top into the skirt, right sides together, with the bottom of the bodice lined up with the waist hole of the skirt. The two parts of the dress should fit nicely together. line your seams up, pin and sew all the way around with a 0.5 seam allowance. (I've overlocked again!)






9 - Hemming
Last thing left to do! If your initial measurements were correct you should be able to turn up 0.5 inch, press and then turn up an additional inch, press and pin. Try it on. All good? If so go ahead and sew that hem down! If not, grab an assistant and have them help adjust the hem for you whilst you're wearing it. Once sorted, stitch that hem down and you're DONE!


And there you have it - your very own beautiful new maxi dress! Perfect for the summer, and can potentially cost absolutely nothing but supplies you already own to make (in my opinion, these are always the best projects)!


In hindsight, I do now wish I'd have used a darker colour for my middle tier, and a pink for the top tier, and maybe given it a bit more of an empire waist, but hell.. it was SO easy to make I can just knock up another! I'll be taking my lovely new maxi to the South of France in two weeks time just as long as the weather is better there than here in the UK right now!


33  CLOTHING / Clothing Sewalongs / Re: Alexander Mcqueen Kimono Jacket sew-along anyone? FREE pattern download!! on: June 09, 2012 05:15:12 AM
AMAZINGNESS! Can't wait for your tute!!
34  CLOTHING / Clothing Sewalongs / Re: I <3 Gibbous Altered Fashions sew-along! on: June 08, 2012 02:03:02 AM
Wow Hazelhoneylove I'd love to see it on! Looks fab Smiley
35  CLOTHING / Clothing Sewalongs / Re: Alexander Mcqueen Kimono Jacket sew-along anyone? FREE pattern download!! on: June 08, 2012 01:30:56 AM
Hey guys, I never got round to it.. it's still all printed out ready to make but I just never have the time to really concentrate on it, which is a shame! I WILL have the time some time though as I'd still love to make it. Feel free to post in the thread though with pics etc if you've completed it or progress piccies Smiley
36  CLOTHING / Clothing: Completed Projects: General / Re: Tea stained lace atlas dress on: May 27, 2012 08:32:00 AM
Thank you so much everyone! The map fabric? It's gorgeous huh? I think it's by "prestigious textiles", it's a nice weight cotton for curtains etc I believe Cheesy
37  Craft Swaps / ARCHIVE OF SWAPS THAT ARE TOTALLY FINISHED / Re: UK Only swap (sign ups til April 30, send out 31st May) on: May 21, 2012 08:35:17 AM
I just uploaded my piccies to the gallery for my package from Trekky. go go go!
38  ORGANIZED CRAFT SWAPS / The Swap Gallery / Re: UK only swap - Gallery on: May 21, 2012 08:24:43 AM
Ok here goes with my package from the amazing Trekky

Beautifully wrapped with a lovely note, and I unwrapped the butterfly paper so carefully so I can reuse it Cheesy


First up, delicious Scottish butter tablet.. this was just amazing! I hit my weight-loss goal today so was going to treat myself to half and give my other half.. the other half. But then I accidentally ate the whole lot anyway.. OOPS! My teeth are growling at me for all that sugar but it was so worth it! Dentist on Wednesday too.. tehee! NOM.


Then, these gorgeous crochet flower brooches (or knitted! Sorry for my stoopid-ness) and three cute badges!


And then these BEAUTIFUL BEAUTIFUL AMAZING 'Catching Butterflies' arm warmers that I had on my pinterest. I LOVE THEM! I love everything about them! I only noticed after I'd taken the photos that I may have them on upside-down? But they look utterly cute either way Cheesy (Taking these piccies was tricky!)



Thank you Trekky for an amazing package! ♥
39  ORGANIZED CRAFT SWAPS / The Swap Gallery / Re: UK only swap - Gallery on: May 21, 2012 07:19:45 AM
Wow what a great start to the gallery! I love the needle roll, and those hoops are amazing! My package from Trekky arrives this morning and I love EVERYTHING! I've snapped some photos so will post them up later on today after I've picked my little bro up from school Cheesy THANK YOU TREKKY!!! ♥
40  CLOTHING / Clothing Sewalongs / Re: I <3 Gibbous Altered Fashions sew-along! on: May 17, 2012 08:19:35 AM
beautiful...you look like a fairy princess!  I love the roses on the side and the fluttery hemline...very nice work as usual!
Thank you lovely! Those roses are taking longer than I thought they would! SO I started another dress today! lol. I never finish ANYTHING, I'm so naughty! It started as a size 16 vintage floral cropped jacket thing that I bought MONTHS ago, here:


Sleeves chopped off and jacket opened up like a tabbard:


Front back and side:




I have no idea where it's going.. I just wanted to start a new one so I'm just sort of adding scraps all over the place. I like the floral-ness of the jacket so I think I'll definitely leave some on show towards the top of it. Cheesy


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