Washu gave some good instructions but if you arent sure what you are doing it can be confusing.  Here are some pictures that might help everything come together.


Press your hem up and finish the edge, either turn under, serge or other method

Fold the pressed hem back so right sides are touching, you end up with 3 layers laying on each other, leave 1/4" or less of finished edge protruding out

This is what my blind hem foot looks like, it can be adjusted to fit the thickness of the fabric and the depth of the stitch, some feet may look a little different

Using your blind hem stitch, stitch on the finished edge of the hem (the 1/4 left protruding)

The blind hem will look something like this on the inside

This is another stitch that can be used for a blind hem, depending on how many stitch variations you machine has.

I'm getting ready to start on several projects and going through my interfacing stash I realized I am almost out of the main interfacing I need.  I can not remember the name of it and I'm fairly certain I'm going to have to order it online.  I dont recall seeing it at JoAnn's or Hancocks.

It's used in the shoulder construction of men's suits and also often in neckties.  I originally purchased it for neckties over 15 years ago.  I've included a picture of it.  Its a loosely woven non-fusible interfacing of a medium heavy weight.  I dont remember the fiber content but it does have little "hairs" that feel similar to a coarse wool.  It is fairly soft, not like crinoline.



I would appreciate any help with the name and even better sources.  Thank you for your help.

paroper is correct, it really depends on what your teacher prefers.  From your description of locking and 90 degree angle it sounds like it could be a blind catch stitch or a variation of slip stitch.

The link below is a pdf format and has some great pictures and explanations.  Page 4 has the blind catch stitch and page 7 has a slip stitch.
http://www.ca.uky.edu/fcs/FACTSHTS/CT-MMB-002.pdf

I tried to draw out the variation of the slip stitch that I use quite often for hems but I'm at about a kindergarten level when it comes to drawing pictures.

Working from right to left insert the needle from the underside at 1 on the hem allowance making a vertical stitch.  Place a small horizontal stitch catching a single thread from the skirt fabric at 2.  Loop the thread around (holding the stitch in place with your thumb to insure you dont pull the thread too tight) and come back under the stitch from point 1.  Then place another stitch with the thread being hid under the hem allowance and come up at 3, repeat the process as before.

I hope this helps rather than adding to your confusion.  This stitch locks the thread slightly.

Your picture reminded me of a combination of several patterns I've used.  Most of them were Vogue styles.  I did a search of the current Vogue patterns online and found this one.
http://store.sewingtoday.com/cgi-bin/voguepatterns/shop.cgi?s.item.V1266=x&TI='v1266'&page=1

Its available in a 22 so size wise wouldnt take much altering.  Everyone has their own idea of what is a few modifications but to me getting the flare below the waist would be the most challenging.  If you were able to use this pattern, to me, it looks like all you would have to change is the shape of collar and then create your uneven hem.  It has the princess seaming, similar sleeves and nearly the same button placement.  Just my suggestion.
You might also try looking for Civil War Era costume patterns.

[do]

I didnt see if you mentioned the weight of the fabric.  That can determine what the best approach would be.  I have 2 ways I like to hem full skirts with curved hems.  If the fabric is light to medium weight I like to do a version of a rolled hem, never using a rolled hem foot.  I've just never liked them.  I'm posting pictures in case my directions dont make sense.

Mark your skirt with hem marker if possible.  This will make it even.  If you dont have a skirt hem marker you can still have good results.  After you have marked the length turn under the edge of the skirt 1/4" to 3/8" and stitch your first row of stitching.  You will need to finger ease in some of the fullness.  Dont worry if you have some tiny tucks, you will still have a smooth hem when you are finished with all the steps.  You may want to use a slightly longer stitch than you normally would for top stitching.

If needed trim excess fabric close to stitching.  Press the first stitched fold.
Turn under one more time (approx 1/8" to 3/16" wider than first fold) and stitch your hem in place from the top.  Your feed dogs will ease the fullness in place.  I dont use pins when I do this type of hem because your hands are busy keeping the fabric in place.  If you are the type that doesnt pull the pins before you stitch over them, it also helps to make sure your stitching stays straight.

This is the top view of the stitching


Underside of hem

You can pull the first row of stitching but its not necessary unless you dont like the way it looks.  If you use contrasting thread I do recommend removing the first row.

If your fabric is a medium weight knit or a heavy fabric I recommend using lacy hem tape and following the directions on the package.  Doing this type of rolled hem in heavier fabric can make it stand out.

Feel free to private message me if you need any additional help.

Hi Mama,
I updated the instructions with a feeble attempt at drawing a diagram.  It is the link that Maxine posted.

If you do the alteration for the seat you may find that you dont need to take in the hips or maybe not as much.  Without seeing the pants on you its difficult to say but doing the alteration for the seat takes some fullness out of the hips at crotch level.

I created another diagram to show how to take in the seat which takes fullness out of the hips.

1.   Pin the center back seam of the pant until they are comfortable, making sure to leave enough ease for movement.  You can do this along with the pinning to take up the rise (as shown in the other post) but if you feel its too much pinning you can do them separately.  When this is pinned its going to look somewhat crescent shaped, the diagram is a bit exaggerated.
2.  After you have pinned the amount needed to be taken out of the seat take off the pants and transfer the markings to the inside of the pant and ease the curve back into the point at the top of the leg inseam.
3.  If you pull the seam line at the center top near the waistband and at the top of the inseam it should look like a straight line.  If not, you need to adjust the stitching line where you marked it to ease back into the original curve.

Using tailor's chalk is a good way to mark this so you can see the line more clearly.




Center back seam pinned

Close up view of pinning

Inside view of new seamline

Close up view of new seamline


If you need more than can be taken in from the center back seam  there really isnt anyway of taking the pants in without affecting the pockets.  If the pants have inset pockets you almost have to take the pockets apart at least partially.  If the pants have slash pockets you can take in the hips above and below the pockets which just make the pocket deeper.  You can taper the amount to be taken in to zero at the waistband seam or just below it.


Feel free to private message me if you need additional help or clarification.

[horizontal]

You were on the right track when you were thinking of taking in the inside seam.  Its really not that difficult.  I will do my best to explain but you may be able to find a tutorial also.

Put on a pair of pants that you can "play around with".  Have a friend you trust do the pinning.

1.  On the center back crotch seam (also called rise) "pinch" the fabric horizontal until it feels comfortable.  This could be as little as 1/2 inch to a few inches.  Pin the amount pinched.
2.  After you take off the pants, mark and measure on the inside, the amount pinched on the center back seam.  This is the measurement you will use to take in the inseam, but only the back of the leg.
3.  Say the amount measured is 1 1/2".  You will need to open both the inseam and the crotch seam.  Measuring from the top of the inseam on the back portion of the leg measure 1 1/2" from the seam and make a mark.  Taper this line to flow back into the original inseam.  This is your new seam line for the back of the leg.  The front of the leg seam with remain the same.  You may need to take it to just the knee or all the way to the hem.  You will be taking out a long V shape.
4.  After you have re-sewn the inseam, re-sew the U of the rise (crotch).  Most of the time you can follow the original seam, in extreme cases you may need to slightly re-curve the center back seam.



1. Pinned to take up seat

1.  Close up view ~ Pinned to take up seat

2.  Inside view

2.  Close up ~ Inside view

3.  Taper back into original inseam



In some extreme cases you may need to mark both the front and the back center crotch seams.  If the front seems to sag and the back fits comfortably then adjust your horizontal pins.  Remember to leave enough ease so the pants are comfortable while sitting and walking.

Once you do this alteration once it will be a breeze.  The first time is a little intimidating if you have never done anything like this before but it is one of easiest things to do.  Taking the seams apart is the most time consuming part of it.

I've updated this with a drawing, no laughing at my artistic skills    This type of alteration is done more often on men's slacks than women's but you can find detailed instructions in Mary Roehr's books.  I'm sure there are other books out there but her's are very affordable and easy to understand.

http://www.maryroehr.com/index.html

I will attempt to load a picture... I dont have a lot of luck with pictures and message boards, lol.  This picture is similar to what I have in mind.  I have some boots and other high heeled shoes I want to use but this is the general idea.



I dont have an upholstery machine as I mentioned before and I'm afraid if I use adhesive to attach the fashion fabric to the sole it wont hold up to wear and tear.  I have tools to attach any snaps, rivets or other hardware.  Any suggestions would be appreciated.