Thanks for the pattern links!
You're welcome!
jan_on_ice: As per your request I have worked on a tutorial to help you re-create the doily cardigan. This is my first time writing out instructions so I hope you can figure out what I'm trying to say. If you have any problems or questions just let me know and I'll try my best to help you out.
Doily Cardigan Size: Not really important. The one I made was a size M. But there’s a lot of stretch to the pattern so it should fit a large range of sizes.
Gauge: Once again, not important. You’ll be sizing the garment to fit your own body as you go.
Materials:
- Sport weight yarn (I used Red Heart’s TLC Baby…approx. 2 skeins & a bit - 13 ozs)
- Boye hooks sizes G/6 (4.25 mm); H/8 (5.00 mm); I/9 (5.50 mm)
- Yarn needle to weave in ends.
Directions:
Step 1: With “G” hook and sport weight yarn follow the instructions for the “Snow Doily” all the way up to Round 14. Do NOT fasten off.
http://web.archive.org/web/20011211211419/http://members.aol.com/crochettalk2/snowdoily.htmStep 2: I began repeating Rounds 3 & 4 and randomly adding a shell row (Rnd 5) whenever I felt the design required it.
- **VERY IMPORTANT: After a shell round remember you have to repeat Rnds 6 & 7 each time in order to set up the base for the repeating section of Rnds 3 & 4 **
- There’s no set rule on how many repeats of the rounds to do.
- You can move up a hook size to an “H” hook a couple of rounds after Rnd 14 or even sooner. If you want, you can even stick with the “H” hook through out…all personal preference.
- Keep adding the rounds until you have a circle that’s wide enough to cover the width of your back. The top of the doily will flop over and that will be the collar.
Step 3: Once the doily is big enough, fold the circle in half horizontally to make the armholes. Make sure it’s not too tight on the upper arm when you join the stitches on either side. (It’s hard to explain this part…I hope it makes sense).
- Each side will now be joined by 2 stitches on either arm. This makes the cardigan pratically seamless and eliminates assembly requirements. You can finish the sleeves now or do them after the front sides are completed.
SLEEVES: Use the size of hook that will give you the width you want. If you want snug-fitting sleeves use the “H” hook or if you prefer wider sleeves use the “I” hook. Experiment until you get the right tension you’re looking for.
Crochet in the round using the joined stitches as your starting point. Join the sts at the end of each round. Do NOT turn. Continue by picking up the pattern where it left off from the body of the cardigan (circle piece). Alternate between Rnds 3 & 4 (cluster st & V-sts) until you’re happy with the length.
End with Rnd 4 so that you can finish off with Rnd 5 to create a shell border for the sleeves. Sleeves are finished!
Step 4: Depending on how big you make your circle (doily center), the collar and the back of the cardigan may already be draping at a sufficient length.
- To eliminate excess length I just added to the front sides separately by picking a random stitch from the front and adding on rows using the Rnd 3 (cluster sts) then Rnd 4 (V-sts) to add to the sides. Do this for both sides. ONLY fasten off ONE side. Leave the other side to continue crocheting some extra rows and the border.
Step 5: Continue crocheting a few more rounds alternating once again between the cluster sts (Rnd 3) and the V-sts (Rnd 4).
- You can switch to an “I” hook if you want a more lacy look to your garment.
- Make sure you end with Rnd 4 so that you can create a shell border (Rnd 5) all the way around the edge of the cardigan. Finish off and weave in ends. Cardigan completed!
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