This was for a toy project at school back in the fall. I knew I wanted to do something with magnets because they're just plain cool, and that eventually led me to the idea of making a zombie that comes apart. He's got small rare earth magnets in the connecting parts of his torso, appendages, and the bottoms of his feet.
Made with super sculpy (half baked, then carved with flathead screwdrivers, then fully baked), 1/4" diameter rare earth magnet discs, super glue, spray primer, acrylic paint, and a lot of time.
In drawing class we've discovered that the horrid paper that our teacher made us draw on last year is actually sticker paper. Needless to say my sharpies and I have been on a sticker making kick today. I'm not sure of the quality of the paper and adhesive though...
Does anybody here make their own stickers? And if so what materials do you use? General advice in regards to stickers is greatly appreciated too.
This was a heat transfer poject for class and I've been wanting to make this for a few months now. The katamari is made up of googled images, and a photo I took of two friends who've now graduated (). I used two transfers (you can see the seam...) to get it to wrap around, and it's on a black anvil tee. I love t-shirts without side seams .
Based on the wounderful game Katamari Damacy. If for some reason you haven't played it yet, well, you should.
I was exposing my screen and just had a terrible time trying to wash it out. I exposed it for =~4.5 minutes near sunset, and looking back that was probally a slight over exposure. To top things off the nozzel on the hose shoots a nice powerful jet of water, but doesn't spread it out like I'm used to. So after trying for a half hour to wash it out and being foiled I decided to use and old brush with plastic bristles to really just scrub the screen, figuring now or never. It actually didn't damage the stencil, which was nice, but even with that I just could not get the last bits of emulsion out of the screen. When you look at it the stencil looks fine, but when you hold it up to the light you can tell that half of the holes in fine areas are still clogged. The problem areas are parts of the design that have very fine lines, like 1 or 2 pixel at 150dpi thin on the transparency. Otherwise the exposure was perfect and I'd hate to reclaim the screen only to possibly have the same misfortune befall me again, and I'd hate to alter my bussiness card design, which would have to totally be redone if I can't make this work...
So, and tips, suggestions, insight, as to how I can get those stubborn squares open, or at least be succesful next time I try to make a stencil with very fine detail?
I just got my mom's old kickwheel from out of the barn. It's in great condition considering its age and storage. The problem is It has just the wooden wheel head and no special piece of cut plywood mounted on top like it used to, which a bat would be attachted to. She's not going to let me throw pots directly off the wheel head since she says it will damage the wood. So I was wanting to seal somehow. I'd need to totally waterproof the top and sides the seal would have to stand up to pressure and the moisture of the clay, as well as minor abrasions from tools and what not.
So, I was wondering... would mod podge be a good option to seal this wood?
please post tips as well as alternative options if you don't think it would work, however I don't want to do anything too complicated and especially want to not have to take the short wood cyndrilical wheel head off of the kickwheel.
I planned on getting a single retensionable frame and just swapping the screens on it, but I've got some doubts about that now :/. So I was wondering, once you've exposed a screen, used it, and taken it off the frame can you put it back on and use it again? I've heard that there may be some image distortion but would it really noticibally affect anything?
My other question is with roller frames/retensionable frames. I haven't been able to really find out how they are specifically used, and I mainly was looking at getting one of them because the wooden rope in groove frames are just a pain to stretch screens with. So what are the differences between a newmans, diamond chase, and a hix reten, and which ones do you need special tools for? I was looking at a hix reten since I know it has square bars which would make things easier but just found out that I'd need to pay $120 just for a toolkit so I could use it. I'd like to know what extras I'd need for that other frames too.
I was wondering... Is there a way to clean screens used with plastisol inks? I'm pretty sure that's the type we're using at school, they're all oily, look like tar, smell a bit, and have to be cured at 350F. It just bothers be so much to throw away a perfectly good screen because it has plastisol ink on it... :/.
And, for clarification, I don't want to reclaim the screen. I just want to get the ink off so I can bring is home and reuse it with my waterbased inks.
Silk screened at school. It's a two color one wrapping around to the back a bit. I did one on a camaflage shirt, a brown shirt (pictured here), and a charcoal shirt. The squid alone was also put onto a friend's white jacket
The story of the camoflage shirt is funny because it was for ryan but it was the shirt he was wearing that day, so he went around half the day without a shirt and had to keep his jacket zipped up. Fortunately the shirt finished drying right as the bell rang. There were only two real problems with the shirts. I was using two transparencies laid over each other for the ink to get a larger design, but they shifted after I put the screen over them so ther'es a vertical shift of about half a centimeter where they meet. Also, on this shirt, one spot didn't get enough ink. Also, it came out kind of messed up on the seam, but I wasn't expecting anything spectacular there anyway. I helped two other guys silkscreen today. We got 1 color on three shirts, 2 colors of a jacket, and the two colors on my three shirts done, along with all the other things like cleaning, masking, and mixing inks. I was in there for three hours and it was pretty sweet. Plus, all the shirts came out really awsome, even the fine detail of the squid.
hehe, my first post in this section, or heat transfer for that matter...
A design for a friend which I drew/inked/scanned/photoshoped and was able to conviniently turn in as a project in graphic arts. music =D After a couple of washes it totally turned color though...
eww... It looks like the magenta ink ran away or something... Anybody know what exactly is the cause of this and how to avoid it reaccuring. I don't want to screw up another shirt, even though I'd still wear it :p.
My first cuff made out of two of my favorite fabrics while at the beach. Features a button on each side for reversibility.
edit: I just realized what to do with my watch which had broken off from its cheap plastic band, put it on cuffs! I attached the red ribbon to the back of the watch, then the safety pins under the ribbon to attach it to my cuff. I like the fact that I'll be able to put this to use with other cuffs I plan to make and wont be stuck with the typical watch.